Traveling on I-30 between Little Rock and Dallas, you'd be foolish not to plan a stop at Bryce's in Texarkana, on the Texas side of the TX-AR border. This old cafeteria used to be located downtown but now occupies large new quarters next to the Interstate. I like cafeterias (good ones, that is) and Bryce's is the best I've been to, without question. Even if you think you don't like cafeterias, I'd still urge a stop at Bryce's. A drive-thru window serves those in a hurry, but sliding your tray down the line, weighing the merits of each salad or slice of pie, is a big part of the cafeteria experience.



We arrived almost exactly at the 11am opening hour and were the first customers (it got busy shortly after). Everything was pristine but I have a feeling they maintain appearances even when the line swells. Adhering to proper old-time cafeteria protocol, Bryce's prepares six congealed salads every day. Check out that two-toned number and the mint-green one. I don't think you could pay me to eat any of those but they're fun to look at.


The dessert selection is even more impressive. Strawberry shortcake and five varieties of meringue pie represent only a small fraction of what’s on offer.
Eight mains and ten sides are available every day. Once you've made the difficult decisions (it all looks good) your plate is presented on a little stainless steel pedestal for your approval.

That's a so-called Mini Plate ($8.59) with beef stew, eggplant casserole (great!) and greens. A homemade roll or muffin is included; give the jalapeño corn muffin some serious consideration. It's a terrific plate of food, every bit of it.

Unlike at certain cafeterias where salt seems to be the only spice, Bryce's food is vigorously seasoned. That cheesy plate of Steak Tampico might be a slight exception, but a bowl of surprisingly zippy hot sauce banishes any blandness.

I returned to the line for a slice of pie and spent several minutes deliberating. I was told that customers get most upset when the icebox pies sell out, so a slice of lemon icebox it was.

Truly among the best slices of pie I've had, with lively citrus notes playing off the rich dairy flavors. I briefly thought about getting a slice of something else for the road. Bryce’s was an unexpected highlight on a road trip filled with great eats.
Bryce's Cafeteria
2021 Mall Dr (I-30 exit 220B if westbound; exit 222 if eastbound)
Texarkana TX
903-792-1611
http://www.brycescafeteria.com/Mon-Fri 11-2 & 5-8, Sat 11-8, Sun 11-3