@Daniel Zemans: Excellent article, Dan- this is your best work since you authored the United States of Pizza: Chicago Edition a few years ago for Serious Eats Chicago. Actually, this may be your best work yet. I think you can figure out who this is as a regular Serious Eats Chicago commentator, so please here me out.
Over the years at Serious Eats Chicago and other supposedly "Chicago based" magazines and blogsites, I've noticed a lot of venom toward deep dish pizza by various "Chicago" food writers. These people are suppose to be representing Chicago foods, but they really don't care for native Chicago foods, especially deep dish pizza. But when you dig a little deeper into many of these food writers backgrounds, you discover that many of these "Chicago" food writers are not from Chicago at all. They are transplants from somewhere else in America. They now live in Chicago, but they have no clue, nor do they really care about what actual born and raised Chicagoans and Chicago area suburbanites have been eating for entire generations. Just because they write for a Chicago based publication doesn't make them any type of expert on what actual born and raised Chicagoans eat on a daily basis with their families or when at work. And guess what? Much to their dismay, the majority of us eat deep dish pizza. And no matter how many new, artisinal, hip, trendy, or Neapolitan places show up here, these transplant Chicago food writers will NEVER be able to erase Chicago's very popular/blue collar history with deep dish pizza. They will never be able to redefine the Chicago pizza scene no matter how hard they try.
Deep down they know this, but it doesn't stop them from getting jobs with these various Chicago based publications/blogsites and attempting to redefine what they consider "true pizza." And what they often do is they come out with these "Best Pizza In Chicago" lists, but they always choose non-Chicago style pizzas as their top choices. In essense, they do everything they can to be pizza snobs and downplay the significance of deep dish pizza, and instead choose pizzas that remind them of where ever they came from somewhere else in America, before they moved to Chicago to be food writers. Thus, their "Best Pizza In Chicago" lists always include great pizza places, but none of them are ever the Chicago legends that we grew up on. Instead, their top choices will be places like Coalfire, the former Great Lake, Piece, Spacca Napoli, or Nellcote. Make no mistake about it, these are all great pizza places. But they are not the pizza places we grew up on here in Chicago.
The places that many of us grew up on are simply an inconvenient truth for these food writers. The pizza places we grew up on here in Chicago do not fit into their narrative of trying to redefine the Chicago pizza scene to conform to what they consider "true pizza." Many of them are out and out snobs. Their condescension, elitism, and arrogance toward deep dish pizza is obvious and on full display every time they come out with one of these "Best of Chicago" pizza lists. I've got news for all of them: When their trendy, hip, and artisinal pizza places are gone in a few years, you know what will still be here? Lou Malnati's. Pizzeria Uno/Due. Pizano's. Louisa's. Hopefully Burt's Place, as long as Burt's healthy. These are the deep dish recipes that have stood the test of time. They are classic, quintessential Chicago, black cast iron pan pizzas. For Pete's sake, entire generations of Chicagoans and suburbanites have been eating Lou Malnati's and Pizzeria Uno/Due for decades. Lou Malnati's is the most overnight shipped pizza in America. It's craved all over America by millions of people who have come to Chicago and experienced the best pizza in the world, and they want a taste of it mailed to them when they get back home. I think Malnati's is up to something in the area of 37 stores, and in the next couple years, they may be expanding to other states. Their popularity is at an all time high, and so is the popularity of deep dish pizza. As you already know, most of Lou Malnati's locations are in places far away from downtown tourist Chicago. And who's eating in all of these suburban Lou Malnati's far away from downtown? People that actually grew up here. And these locations are packed to the gills on any given night with local Chicagaons and suburbanites. But these transplant Chicago food writers want everybody to forget this.
And this immense popularity of places like Lou Malnati's drives these transplant food writers crazy because deep dish pizzas sheer popularity prevents these snotty food writers from redefining the Chicago pizza scene to conform to what they consider "true pizza." Personally, I think many of these food writers, for whatever reason, are threatened by the popularity of deep dish pizza because it threatens what their snotty little closed minds consider true pizza. As obnoxious as many of these so called "Chicago food writers" are, they have alreadly lost the battle. They will never be able to redefine pizza in this city no matter how hard they try over at Serious Eats Chicago or Chicago Magazine, or where ever.
It takes a certain level of sheer arrogance to move to another city to become a food writer, and tell the very people that actually grew up in that city what constitutes good food, as if that city already didn't have good food before the arrogant, condescending, elitist food writer showed up on the scene from somewhere else in America to declare what he considers the "best pizza in Chicago." That would be like me, a native Chicagoan, going up to Alaska to take a job as a food writer, and telling the people of Anchorage where to get the best Alaskan King Crab. Or me taking a job as a food writer in NYC, and telling native New Yorkers where to get the best pastrami. Thus, I would never go into someone else's home city and try to tell the people that actually grew up there where to get the best food. It really takes a certain level of ego, elitism, and condescension to do that, and that's just not who I am.
But these transplant Chicago food writers do it all the time. Nonetheless, like I already said, they have already lost the battle when it comes to deep dish pizza. The sheer popularity of Lou Malnati's, Pizano's, Louisa's, Uno's/Due, and Burt's Place cannot be denied, and will always reign supreme here. When all their hipster, trendy, artisinal, Neapolitan places are gone, the classics will always remain. No matter how hard they try, these snotty food writers will never be able to redefine the Chicago pizza scene.
You should publish your deep dish pizza article on Serious Eats Chicago. You'll get plenty of blowback from the various pizza snobs over there, but they are wrong, and deep down they know it somewhere in their tiny, close minded heads. As for me, I love the diversity of the new Chicago pizza scene. I love Coalfire and Spacca Napoli, and I'm very much looking forward to the opening of Paulie Gee's Chicago. I love having great pizza of all genres in this city. Are Lou Malnati's and Louisa's my favorite pizzas overall above every other style? Yes, but I love having the East Coast and Neapolitan options here in my home city for something different from time to time. I truly love the diversity of the Chicago pizza scene. That's why Chicago is the pizza capital of the world and the single greatest pizza city in American history. We have it all here, and we are all very lucky to have daily access to all these various styles of pizza in one American city.
In conclusion, I'm not the pizza snob, but these so called "Chicago food writers" very much are, and their ignorance/condescension/arrogance/elitism is on full display every time they disrespect Chicago deep dish pizza. Here's a newsflash for all these snotty transplant Chicago food writers: We already had the best pizza in the world here in Chicago long before they showed up on the scene to "educate" us provincial rubes here in Chicago.
In reality, this city is big enough for it all, but you can't tell that to close minded, snotty people. But in the end- we have already won because they have failed and will continue to fail in their efforts to redefine the Chicago pizza scene. What they can't wrap their tiny little brains around is the fact that they can't redefine what's already been immensely popular here since 1943. And it's driving them all crazy.
That is all.
Good Eating As Always,
deepdish (a.k.a. cpd007 over at Serious Eats Chicago)