Katz's Delicatessen - New York

Speak, Memory New York City Entry #25

Memory challenges a food critic. Does the dish consumed today compare with that of yesterday, last year, a decade ago, or in childhood. Is our world growing better in every way or is it forever in decay?

New Yorkers of my acquaintance tend to accept the latter. Since arriving in Manhattan there has been a litany of complaint: Restaurant X (fill in the blank) is going downhill. The reverse diagnosis is rare.

Early in my visit I was told that Katz's Delicatessen was not what it was. Could it be true? And how could I tell, despite the many times I visited its location on the corner of Houston and Ludlow?

Katz's is something of the archetypal Jewish New York Deli (and is there any other kind?). Rows of common tables are set apart from a long counter at which work numerous busy countermen. On the walls are a who's who of the famous and less-so. One receives a ticket upon entering, and the countermen (and some table servers, too) mark one's purchases.

This Sunday morning my friend and I shared a hot pastrami sandwich on rye, an order of potato pancakes, and an egg cream. The good news was that the pastrami was better than any pastrami outside of the confines of the Lower East Side (starting with the ritualistic taste that I was offered before purchasing). Katz's serves their pastrami sandwich much as the archetypal Philly Cheesesteak vendors (Pat's and Geno's) serve their steaks. The meat is not so much sliced as chopped, although in New York there is no Italian roll to cup the mess. The pastrami was very flavorful and juicy. Excellent. Was it fattier than I recall? Perhaps a bit, but I was in no mood to complain. Memory did not permit a judgement on whether it remained at the same perch on Mount Olympus, but it was well above competitors (I haven't tried the Second Avenue Deli this visit).

The potato pancake was less satisfying: it was not as airy as some I recall. The dish was rich with potato, but rather solid. I'm not sure if onions used to be mixed in, but these pancakes were pure spud, lacking a kick. I enjoyed them, but was not in love. I have had better.

The egg cream was a canonical New York version, not too sweet and with the chocolate syrup added at the end. When we reminisce in heaven about egg creams, this could be one of which we speak.

Did Katz's measure up to my last visit some years back? I can't quite say. However, if Katz's is no longer a New York classic (and that is not MY claim), most other cities would roll out a carpet of pink smoked meats.

Katz's Delicatessen
205 East Houston Street (at Ludlow Street)
Manhattan (Lower East Side)
212-254-2246

http://www.vealcheeks.blogspot.com

Katz's really isn't what it once was because the lower east Side isn't what IT once was. The magical thing about Katz's and the neighborhood in general was that visiting it was like taking a step back in time for many years.

Katz's broke rank with many of the tourist delis in Times Square in that, until 1997 or so, you could still get a Katz's sandwich for under $10 while the Times Sqaure places were selling lesser quality sandwiches to tourists for twice the price. It was the New York deli for New Yorkers. I only learned of Katz's from a co-worker in 1999 when he was speaking of the regular trip that he took with his mother every weekend to have a nosh at Katz's and shop for clothing in the nearby retail shops on Orchard.

That example became this lonely southern boy's first understanding of the local culture that existed in New York outside of museums, sporting events and operas.

I became fascinated with the history of the neighborhood. With the story of the squatters in Roosevelt Park, the history of the neighborhood's development as a ghetto for Eastern Europeans who fled persecution, and as a center of cultural life for those immigrants and their children.

I loved going to the neighborhood for a corned beef or pastrami at Katz's and then heading off to a local leather or suit shop to see what kind of deal I could barter for some new clothes.

Then came Food Network and its huckster hosts traversing the globe and introducing Bob and Mary Smith of Topeka to all of the wonders of the ethnicity of this restaurant and its neighborhood.

At the same time, the neighborhood was changing. The buildings were being converted and rented and sold to the new wealthy created by the internet boom.

It became more yuppified. Less respectful of itself and its history. As the neighborhood gentrified, so did the authnticity and the purpose behind Katz's began to lose its focus.

To me the sandwich still tastes the same. But, the vibe of the neuighborhood, the feeling that one is in a different country is now gone.

Katz's hasn't changed. The LES and New York City have though. And the sandwich goes for around fifteen bucks now.

Katz's Deli is a ritualistic stop for Trixie and I every time we go to NY. At this point, I'd say it's more for the personality of the place and its neighborhood than the food. Not to insinuate that it's not a worthy stop strictly on culinary terms alone: because it is. But over the years, I have to say that their plain hot dog has become the star over any of their sandwich offerings. It is wonderfully juicy and loaded with garlic and a beautiful snap from its casing upon its devouring.
Even with all its stature and legend, however, I still believe Katz's has one of the finest pastrami sandwiches in Manhattan.

GAF wrote:I haven't tried the Second Avenue Deli this visit.

As far as 2nd Avenue Deli, I remember splitting a sandwich there between the two of us and not being able to finish it. As we walked out, we gave it to a homeless guy on the street. I remember later on passing by and seeing him sleeping with an empty "2nd Avenue Deli" paper bag to his side. Couldn't have been that bad!

For pastrami I would definitely take Katz's over 2nd Ave Deli. I consider Langers in LA the best pastrami (best meat?) I've ever had and I think Katz's comes a lot closer than 2nd Ave Deli.

2nd Avenue has defineitely slipped since the owner was murdered about ten years ago.

CMC wrote:For pastrami I would definitely take Katz's over 2nd Ave Deli. I consider Langers in LA the best pastrami (best meat?)

I too think the pastrami at Katz's is superior to 2nd Ave but don't think that Langer's is the best. Katz's is it for me. I do like 2nd Ave's corned beef better than Katz's FWIW.

GAF wrote:Katz's is something of the archetypal Jewish New York Deli (and is there any other kind?).

A joke, right?

I've never been to Langer's. Katz's gets my pastrami money.

I had to stop by this thread as I'm in the planning stages for another NYC trip. While everyone can debate the merits of Katz's pastrami vis-a-vis that of other delis all day, I'm glad that someone gave credit to their hot dog. It's worth every bite. And, having come from a family that counseled against wasting any food on your plate, I never feel guilty as I can always finish it - unlike the sandwiches, which are sized to feed you for a week.