I've heard complaints about the current menu's lack of authenticity, and faulting Next for highlighting American Chinese food, etc. But I would prefer that Next avoid attempting to recreate a cuisine of which they have only limited knowledge and experience. That being said, my complaints with the Chinese menu are largely confined to kitchen execution errors, and there were several of them. I loved a number of dishes, disliked or did not enjoy about the same number, and the majority of the problems can be traced to poor execution.
The evening began with Next's ubiquitous centerpiece, but thankfully I didn't have to wait an hour or more to find out how it would be used. Enormous chinese okra and cilantro were pressed like coffee for a hot and sour soup.

Pressed Okra centerpiece above, hot and sour soup belowThe tableside preparation was moderately interesting if slightly prolonged, and though the soup was a decent beginning to the meal, I was certainly not wowed.
The soup was followed by a dish of Alinea beauty that featured bamboo shoot, lily bulb, corn, citrus, tofu and probably a lot more. My dining companion and I both shrugged our shoulders though, realizing that although we often eat with our eyes, that does not necessarily maximize flavor. No execution errors here, but no excitement either.
Bamboo Shoot and Lily BulbA trio of bites followed: a scallop dumpling, a pork dumpling with Chinese date (jujube) and cuttlefish (meant to imitation xiao long bao) and a foamy congee with pork. The scallop dumpling was wonderful and really delivered on scallop flavor along with some earthier fungus undertones. The congee was rich, smooth, lip smacking good, and perhaps the very best congee I've ever tasted. Threads of pork were the treasure at the bottom of the cup of congee and made an already great congee even better. The XLB was a letdown though. Because its exterior was tough, it exploded so quickly in the mouth and I had swallowed whatever filling there was before I could really taste it.


From top to bottom, scallop dumpling, congee with pork, xiao long bao of pork, jujube and cuttlefishSturgeon with leek in a roasted spine broth was fine, but again not particularly exciting. The fish was perfectly cooked, but I thought the broth, though nicely spiced, was overwhelmingly dominated by what I thought was celery (though perhaps also leek), to the point where little else mattered.
Sturgeon with Leek in a Roasted Spine BrothJust as I was getting a bit bored, there were several hints of greatness. First, a beautiful half coconut shell filled with crab, green chili paste and coconut ice. Though I thought it was more striking than it was delicious, I still enjoyed this quite a bit. Alternating flavors of sweet crab, spicy chili and cooling coconut ice made for a terrific balance. Is it Chinese? Why do I care? I don't spend this kind of money at an avant garde restaurant seeking adherence to tradition. Adherence to a general concept is fine with me.
Crab with Green Chili Paste and Fresh CoconutEasily my favorite course of the evening was Next's version of street food. There was a skate chop with cumin that capably recreated the intensity and deliciousness of cumin lamb, and was thoughtfully served on a bone that easily separated from the meat as you ate it, almost like a lollipop chicken wing. Tender squab, served in a cute Chinese takeout egg roll-type take out bag, could have featured just the tiniest pinch more of the numbing Szechuan peppercorns but was fantastic as it was. It's rare for squab to be served this moist. And the best street food item was the tiger salad with cold skin noodles and seitan. Think Lao Hunan's jade tofu, and dare I see even better, much better.



From top to bottom, Skate Chop with Cumin, Squab with Szechuan Peppercorns (also shown in purse) and Tiger SaladThe street food course was followed by a magnificent shrimp mousse noodle that delivered more flavor than one could have imagined from this tiny bite. I wish they had served me a whole bowl of these - fantastic.
Shrimp mousse noodleFar less successful though was shrimp in duck yolk sand. Whatever pleasure I expected from being served a whole shrimp was ruined by a terribly heavy hand with acidity. The acidity sadly drowned out most of the shrimp flavor and ruined what might otherwise have been a great dish. But I'll never know.
Shrimp in Duck Yolk SandNext's first real riff on American Chinese food left me scratching my head. A lacquered slab of not quite beef jerky missed on the texture (not quite crisp, certainly not soft, and not quite jerky) and beef flavor (but unfortunately did not miss at all in terms of being overly sweet), and the freeze dried broccoli just seemed odd. The beef with broccoli was served with a lovely beef consomme, though probably not lovely enough for me to desire this course again.

Beef and Broccoli in Liquid and Solid StateElegant stacked containers were then opened at the table, revealing the duck course. There was a steamed bun filled with duck rillettes. Unfortunately, the bun was way too large (and somewhat unattractive) and slightly dry, and the rillettes just got lost in a world of puffy dough.
There was a poached duck egg on red cabbage and green onions, though sadly, the most noticeable element of the dish is the slightly under-poached egg, with some clear egg white on the fringes. There were some sauteed greens that were cooked just a little too long, and a tart and slightly spicy plum jam which was delicious.
Fortunately, the main component of this course, the smoked duck, was fantastic. The duck was extremely tender, perfectly cooked, just fatty enough, and with a lovely light smoke flavor. While I can't overlook the obvious execution failures in this dish (the bao, the under-poached egg and the overcooked greens), at least the duck was excellent.




From top to bottom, Duck Rillettes bao, Poached Duck Egg, Sauteed Greens, Plum Jam and Smoked DuckApparently, the sweet and sour sweetbreads course apparently has its detractors. We overheard the people two tables away telling the staff they didn't like it. But I quite enjoyed it. Sweetbreads, taro and underripe banana (or perhaps plantain) in a hot caramel-like sauce that hardened when dipped in the tar passion fruit vinegar. I though the combination was delicious and the tender sweetbreads were not overwhelmed in the least by the hardened sweet and sour shell. Had the caramel shell been any thicker, I might have complained. But as it was, the sweet and sour flavors were delicious and did not hide the delicious sweetbreads.

Pulling Threads with Sweetbreads, Taro Root and BananaThe sweet and sour course was a nice bridge to dessert. The first dessert course, which our waiter said many people compare to breakfast cereal, was frozen rice noodles, frozen peas and black whipped vinegar. Fine, but completely unremarkable.
Frozen Rice Soup with Legumes and Whipped VinegarDragon's beard candy was tasty, albeit quite sweet, but I really loved the sesame flavor it delivered. This dessert also featured some terrific local honey, extracted from honeycomb tableside, though it didn't seem like there was much effort expended in incorporating the honey into the dish. It was obviously separated from the rest of the dessert.

Dragon's Beard Candy with a Pressing of HoneyDinner ended with an oversized fortune cookie, which held copies of the menu, as well as your choice of an iced coffee or tea. I can't recall the flavors in the coffee, though I enjoyed it quite a bit.
Fortune CookieThere were some decent beverage pairings. I enjoyed the Schwibinger Niersteiner Kranzberg Riesling and the Boston Bual Special Reserve Madeira from Rare Wine Co. the most, though I'll note that they seemed less generous with pours than at past dinners.
As for service, I noticed some new faces and I thought service was excellent overall. Those who waited on us seemed far more willing to engage and much more knowledgeable about the menu. While I may have noticed several faults of the kitchen, I have no complaints about the evening's service.
Overall, a nice meal, very nice indeed. But at $300, I expected to be wowed. I was not. And I don't recall experiencing this many small miscues in the past. Still, I'm generally pleased that I experienced Next Chinese.