Mark Bittman has evolved into a tiresome gasbag, longing for halcyon days that existed primarily in his mind:
"America doesn’t have that kind of tradition, although the cooking of our diners and other greasy spoons was once honest and often enjoyable. But they’re gone, too, because the problems are fundamental. By relying increasingly over the years on fast and pre-prepared food in most arenas of our lives, we — including, at this point, the celebrated French — have allowed un-fresh food to take over. There are exceptions, of course — part of my work is looking for them — but that’s exactly what they are."
Really? I remember when all the produce at Jewel and Dominick's was pre-shrink-wrapped, and finding fresh button mushrooms was a big deal. Fresh chiles? Tomatillos? Shallots? Never seen. And that "honest cooking" came out of a can; the turkey for that hot turkey sandwich was most likely turkey roll, the gravy was from a packet, and the mashed potatoes were reconstituted potato buds. Gaaah!