Pan Guatemalteco at Golden Grain (the old Donut Doctor)

Four years ago in the Donuts thread dansch wrote:

LAZ wrote:

bnowell724 wrote:I live north also, and did a yelp search including 6 or 7 northside neighborhoods to see what's available. It seems like there is only one dedicated donut shop, called Donut Doctor in Albany Park. Other than that I got ten Dunkin Donuts results....

Donut Doctor
3342 W Lawrence Ave
Chicago, IL 60625
(773) 509-1600

It's been nearly two years since my doughnut survey, but Donut Doctor was doing excellent chocolate-frosted cake doughnuts then.

I had only been once and had pretty mediocre donuts at Donut Doctor. Given that my single experience was mid-afternoon (not a great time for fresh donuts), I went back a couple of weekends ago around 9am on a Saturday to give the place another shot. Donuts were still disappointing (tried cake, yeast, and fritter) and I left mine unfinished. Coffee was even worse. Frankly, I'd rather go to Dunkin.

I went to Donut Doctor once over ten years ago and never felt any need to return. Several months ago I noticed much of the old sign—an Albany Park landmark!—had been removed, and a few days later a new one appeared, promising pan guatemalteco.



Time to go back to the Doctor. The interior looks much as I remember from a decade ago, except for some interesting new items in the donut cabinet. Nothing is labeled, so just ask about the Guatemalan stuff. So far, I've tried five varieties of pan guatemalteco and have been impressed by each. I'm sure plenty of bakery fans would consider them undersweetened and dry but I find their low sugar levels and interesting textures make them perfect accompaniments to a cup of coffee. Those who think a chocolate-frosted cream-filled donut or two is the perfect way to start the day might not agree.

The campechana seems almost unsweetened, except for some sugar crystals on the surface, and actually has a trace of saltiness. I love its texture—fresh and airy but with a pleasant bit of chewiness.





The sheka, with its distinctive round topknot and dusting of flour, is slightly sweet but still quite austere. It has a finer textured, more tender crumb than the campechana, but shares an appealing yeasty aroma and flavor.





If the corona isn't made from the same dough, it's awfully similar. Some streusel-like crumbs on top distinguish it.



Likewise, the besito has a similar mildly sweet dough, enhanced by a light sprinkle of sesame seeds.



Pan royal, the sweetest one I've tried, has a crumbly texture like dense cake. I love the crisp, crunchy edges on this one.



Donuts—using the Doctor's old recipes I believe—are still available but it seems like almost all the love is directed toward the pan guatemalteco. Plenty more to try. A simple breakfast—eggs, sausage, beans and cheese for $3.50—is served every morning and Guatemalan tamales are available on weekends.

Golden Grain (was Donut Doctor)
3342 W Lawrence Av
Chicago
773-954-0509

I will miss that sign, but that's about the only thing to mourn from the old Donut Doctor. the Guatemalan specialties are right up my alley- not too sweet is just right for me. However, I wonder if they have any deep-fried pastries, such as the bunuelo at Mekato's. To my mind the combination of savory and deep fried is a home-run. ( Unconscious choice of words, but they do remind me of baseballs.)

Thanks for the report, Rene G.