I'd like to see more offbeat themes like Childhood.

Judging from the reviews their faithful recreation of a steak house was a bore. I'm more interested in menus that they put more of their own spin on it.

One more thing - drop the grand menus.

Gonzo70 wrote:3) Our "grand menu" of 2015 will be Next: 2011. Next was born with the concept of affordable fine dining. We will revisit this concept and features favorite dishes from our first year. Prices will reflect the affordable fine dining concept and will be the same as 2011 only adjusted for inflation. Starting price $315 per/person.

haha

I have thoroughly enjoyed my meals at Next when the menu was a creative and original leap through time or experience (Paris, Childhood) to do something that either has not been done before or is not being done anymore. I am not really into costly, white tablecloth replications of things that I can access in spades at high quality from purveyors who specialize in that cuisine (Chinese, Thai, etc) which abound in this city already. I also dont really dig the "we're going to serve you a menu that some other restaurant already did at a crazy price" (El Bulli, Trio).

So I think I agree with mgmcewen here- if they resumed doing more of the time or experience travel types of menus- and brought the price back in line with the experience- I'd take another look. Otherwise, I'd rather take my $600 for dinner for two (excluding beverages) to Grace or go out for dinner about 10 times in restaurants soley devoted to the cuisine at hand (Rainbow, LaoSzeChuan, Devon ave).

International guest chef collaborations would be wonderful as well, especially to justify plane ticket prices.

Completely agree with the past few posters; Childhood was my favorite Next menu and to this day ranks among my top ten favorite meals of all time. Was also a good value. I really hope Next does decide to go back to doing what made it so popular during the first few menus instead of continuing down the path of 2013 and 2014.

While Thailand got close to the equator, they haven't yet done a menu featuring foods from south of the equator, have they? I'd love to see something South American, for example. Morocco, an Indian wedding banquet, Portuguese or Indonesian would all pique my interest. Also, I'd love to see a celebration of street food or dumplings in their many glorious forms. Lastly, perhaps an homage to the pig in recognition of Chicago's on-time role as "Hog Butcher to the World."

Yelp has photos and some reviews already. 21 (give or take) courses for Trio. While the food looks great, it looks exactly like what it is, a nod to what Alinea has become after much refinement. For the price, I'd rather just go to Alinea. On that note, Alinea is so hit or miss lately (imo) I'd rather get a table at Grace or one of the many fine 1* restaurants in Chicago that are as good or better for half of the price. Also, another menu where they offer food zero restrictions? That gets rid of 75% of the people I could bring with me even if I planned on going. Sigh.

I don't want to get so down on Next, it has awesome potential based on previous experiences, but the last two years have been complete duds in my opinion. I'm glad I ditched the season tickets for now, they really have no point and are a poor value. Hopefully Next can find itself a bit more in 2015. For now, I'll probably skip Trio.

It is a little telling that on a food blog/forum most of the posts here have to do with cost, not the actual food

Yeah, it's almost as if it costs too much to try the food.

Gonzo - loved your suggestions (ahem) and Chgoeditor made me wonder about some form of african menu?

I was only at Next once - for Childhood and that was thanks to getting one of their then-offered late Saturday $35 a person 4 tops (or was it $45?). I was able to take my daughter who was just really getting dug into her cooking career and a young chef I knew along with another friend at this rate and it was really wonderful to be able to share such a meal with them. The whole tickets and varying prices seems so visionary - giving all sorts of folks a chance to experience innovative food while making it easier to plan for the restaurant.

That said, the service was surely not up to what I've experienced at my favorite Chicago spots - Naha, Embeye, Publican, Sable and more. And none of the menus since have inspired me to try for tickets .... more recently it's completely out of my budget range but also not inspiring enough to make me wish I had the cash or want to figure out a way to splurge it.

And I hear too much from young kitchen folks about insanely low wages even compared to the $10 or $12 an hour most orthem make - not inspiring.

I apologize if this isn't the place for this posting. Our group has a chef's table that we reserved for September 25th at 6:30 PM. I only paid for the food/no drinks. We are trying to sell the table, so please message me if you are interested. We have one couple that would like to buy seats, so we could also sell to a group of four or sell by the pair. If someone wants to buy all six, we would sell that as well. We would love to get what we paid the Trio dinner is $1949, which results in $324 per ticket.

As far as the discussion on prices. I looked at what we paid for the Chef's table for Chicago Steak, and it was about $50 more than the price Next was selling "normal" seats. I was not happy about it. AT ALL. It would have made it easier to swallow if they had given us something as a token of their appreciation for the fact that we were long-term season ticket holders.

My understanding is that the kitchen table always had more courses than the regular table, hence why it always cost a little bit more. Maybe something has changed recently. I've only dined in the regular section of the restaurant.

You are correct about your understanding, but I don't recall getting extra courses for Chicago Steak, but we might have gotten one or two. I've sat at the kitchen table for 2 "seasons." It is really fun to see the action in the kitchen. The later seating of the kitchen table costs less, but I can't stay up that late!!

I know that head chefs are not in their restaurants a lot of the time and quality usually doesn't suffer when they're gone, but still a bit of a concern to see these guys in Europe on the second weekend of a new menu when dinner and drinks costs over $500.

https://twitter.com/Gachatz/status/510099186881400832

First semi-review: http://www.timeout.com/chicago/food-dri ... -next-trio

I don't really find any professional reviews of Next very useful, particularly when almost no Chicago food critics are anonymous. It's very clear to me that Next keeps tabs on who is "somebody" and treats them very differently from an average diner.

I think this review was really good
http://jesteinf.wordpress.com/2014/09/1 ... nd-endings

But even beyond that, I want to feel appreciated as a guest. Not a customer, a guest. What do we even hear about when we hear about Next these days? The ticketing system, mainly. If your principal investor and your business model are the most talked about features of your restaurant, something has gone wrong. We don’t hear much about menu development. We certainly don’t hear much about staff training. The Trio menu kicked off with much hoopla, but almost right after it started we see that the back of house has gone off to Europe and the owner is in New York. As a season ticket holder, how is that supposed to make me feel? If the Next team is going to make analogies to sporting event or theater tickets, they should also know that season ticket holders are the lifeblood of those particular fan bases. As a Next season ticket holder I feel like I’ve been given the unique opportunity to give the restaurant a no-interest loan and that’s about it.

I hope I'm not hurting my odds on making it happen, but the last few days 5 or 6 people have offered tickets for half off (or more) the Trio menu at Next over various media. One was $1k for a table of 4 with wine pairings. I now have high hopes that I will get to this menu, but it definitely seems like others are feeling that they are just phoning this one in.

Hopped Up wrote:I know that head chefs are not in their restaurants a lot of the time and quality usually doesn't suffer when they're gone, but still a bit of a concern to see these guys in Europe on the second weekend of a new menu when dinner and drinks costs over $500.

https://twitter.com/Gachatz/status/510099186881400832

First semi-review: http://www.timeout.com/chicago/food-dri ... -notes-nex

The "head chefs" you're talking about, in so many restaurants, are pretty much never there, and when they are they're only expeditng, not cooking. Also, a lot of the "signature dishes" you attribute to those chefs at their restaurants are actually conceived by their sous or line cooks.I could give you a ton of examples. fyi!

So sin, do we need the head chefs then? Why not just let the sous and line cooks do everything including create and supervise the menu.

sin wrote:The "head chefs" you're talking about, in so many restaurants, are pretty much never there, and when they are they're only expeditng, not cooking. Also, a lot of the "signature dishes" you attribute to those chefs at their restaurants are actually conceived by their sous or line cooks.I could give you a ton of examples. fyi!

If the main comparison for tickets for restaurants is a concert, or sporting event, or the like, you're probably going to be a bit disappointed if you buy tickets to a Ryan Adams show and all of a sudden Bryan shows up on stage. Sure, he might play songs by Ryan Adams, but that's not the full experience you just gave someone an interest free loan for.

I suppose it might not matter everywhere and for every amazing chef you can have 3 people under him with as good or better ideas, but I've yet to enjoy a Mike Bagale run kitchen as much as an Achatz inspired at Alinea. The switch and focus was VERY obvious, but that could be a financial shift as much as a chef shift. Next switching to what is now is just as sad in the Chicago fine dining scene. I suppose it shows and the value becoming very apparent in the secondary market. $5k charity seats for the grand menu the first season to half off Trio.

SolitaryChef wrote:

sin wrote:The "head chefs" you're talking about, in so many restaurants, are pretty much never there, and when they are they're only expeditng, not cooking. Also, a lot of the "signature dishes" you attribute to those chefs at their restaurants are actually conceived by their sous or line cooks.I could give you a ton of examples. fyi!

If the main comparison for tickets for restaurants is a concert, or sporting event, or the like, you're probably going to be a bit disappointed if you buy tickets to a Ryan Adams show and all of a sudden Bryan shows up on stage. Sure, he might play songs by Ryan Adams, but that's not the full experience you just gave someone an interest free loan for.

Indeed, if the comparison is to theater and sporting events, we might as well suggest that Next is now offering nearly every performance with the understudies or the bench. Now, of course, understudies are talented and even bench players are fabulous athletes. But the ticket value is set by the stars and the starters, whom we expect to see.

And I also have heard bad things about Alinea under Begale. I'm sitting on a gift certificate I won at a charity auction in the hopes I can figure out a time when the stars might be performing before I swap it for tickets.

You may not need your top chefs in the kitchen, but it does seem like the height of arrogance to leave the country during the roll-out of your most expensive menu to date, which also happens to be a tribute to yourself.

Short report.

21 courses. One true miss (smoked figs course), the desserts weren't good (to my palate, they usually aren't at Next), but the savories were mostly excellent including the first aspic I've ever actually enjoyed (lamb) and a duck course that is easily the best thing I've had at Next.

Service was fine, though I felt slightly rushed honestly. That said, dinner still took 3 1/2 hours. Split a wine pairing which out the door was about $190 - even though two of us were sharing, they still frequently topped off glasses.

I'm not sure why I continually fall for it, but this is the fifth time leaving Next or Aviary almost literally being pushed out the door because "your cab is waiting" only to find nothing. It's an offputting end to an evening.

At the end of the day, this was a great meal and I'm happy I went, but it is almost certainly my final visit.

sin wrote:The "head chefs" you're talking about, in so many restaurants, are pretty much never there, and when they are they're only expeditng, not cooking. Also, a lot of the "signature dishes" you attribute to those chefs at their restaurants are actually conceived by their sous or line cooks.I could give you a ton of examples. fyi!

All of my personal restaurant kitchen experience has been to the contrary of this. Any restaurant that I have knowledge of where they seem to really care about the food they're serving, there is a heavy Chef presence in the kitchen. Yes, restaurant kitchens that are helmed by celebrity chefs with numerous other ventures going often have a chef de cuisine who handles the day-to-day executive chef duties of the restaurant, including menu development. But even then there is still a lot of communication between the chef de cuisine and the executive chef(from what I've seen).

The reason the executive chef is often expediting is so they can over see everything that's leaving the kitchen and ensure the 'machine' is running smoothly.

Even in kitchens where the exec. chef is very hands on, sous chefs and line cooks are given opportunities to collaborate on the creation of new dishes, this is common.

chrisch wrote:Short report.

21 courses. One true miss (smoked figs course), the desserts weren't good (to my palate, they usually aren't at Next), but the savories were mostly excellent including the first aspic I've ever actually enjoyed (lamb) and a duck course that is easily the best thing I've had at Next.

Service was fine, though I felt slightly rushed honestly. That said, dinner still took 3 1/2 hours. Split a wine pairing which out the door was about $190 - even though two of us were sharing, they still frequently topped off glasses.

I'm not sure why I continually fall for it, but this is the fifth time leaving Next or Aviary almost literally being pushed out the door because "your cab is waiting" only to find nothing. It's an offputting end to an evening.

At the end of the day, this was a great meal and I'm happy I went, but it is almost certainly my final visit.

Thank you for your post. It was nice to see a review from someone who has actually eaten this menu. We do not go until December.

As for the cab issue: We had the same experience once or twice of feeling rushed out because "your cab is waiting", and even though there was an open taxi, we now say "no" when asked if we need a cab on departure. When we are ready to leave it is easy to catch one, usually with the valet's assistance and maybe a couple of bucks.

This conversation regarding whether the chef should be at the restaurant or not is pretty much a matter of opinion. You can easily argue this one either way.

Of course, in any great restaurant, not just Next or Alinea... if you're spending literally anywhere from $500 to a thousand dollars on dinner, it's nice to know that the big man, or lady, is in the kitchen and "feel" that presence when you sit down at the table... But sometimes they aren't. You aren't buying a guaranteed picture, signed menu, or handshake from the chef - you're buying a great meal.

But then again, chefs of critical acclaim such as Grant usually have a lot going on... writing books, research, travel, and experiencing things, living your life is not wrong. Also, how do we know that Chef Achatz doesn't deal with health issues, being a cancer survivor and all? My point is that they are people with families, lives, and desires to do things outside of their restaurants sometimes, as well... There is nothing wrong with that. Creativity is not the result of only being inside of a kitchen 24x7 or chatting with guests. That aspect is most certainly important...you can never lose sight of where you came from or who you serve. But, I bet that many will be blown away from what is the eventual result on the plate of Grant's recent trip to Scandinavia.

I've been to The French Laundry twice now... Chef Keller wasn't there either of the times and I still had two amazing meals. I've been to Per Se, Eleven Madison... don't believe Chef Keller or Chef Humm were in. I've been to Alinea a bunch of times... two or three of which I don't believe Chef Achatz was there and again - had amazing meals.

I totally get the desire to have a table side visit from the chef, be sent extra courses, get a signed menu, etc... we all want that stuff but sometimes they are just out of the kitchen for whatever reason. I happen to feel that they shouldn't be faulted for this. They are people, too, at the end of the day. Don't you ever travel, take a day off of work, or have a light day at the office and maybe leave early? I know I do.

Lastly, specifically with Grant, I happen to feel that Alinea, Next, and The Aviary most definitely still live by his creativity, vision, drive, dedication, and now spirit. It's impossible to be in three restaurants at one time...so you have to inspire the people that work for you. I have worked, just like an actual employee, shifts at The Aviary before and other than watching extremely hardworking talented people do what they do... I can assure you that even when he is not in the room, Chef Achatz inspires and drives each and every one of his employees. Those people work very hard five days a week for you to eat what's on your plate.

For some people, it doesn't work. They admit this in the memoir. I still think they do a great job. Trio was amazing. I'll post my report tomorrow.

Cheers, everyone.
Royal

Since any chef with more than one restaurant or venture will not physically be able to be in every kitchen every night- isn't it universally understood that they entrust or pass on that role to someone who has been mentored by them/within their system, and who is fully capable of continuing to implement the standards and vision of the 'name' chef? I do not believe this is a hidden or secretive practice within the industry.

I feel like it's the natural evolutionary progression of a chef's career, whether it's because of an expanding restaurant empire or age or something else(and so few even make it to this stage due to the physical/emotional/financial stakes of choosing cooking as a career path)- to eventually transition into the roll of visionary and/or mentor in some way.

That's all well and good, but this discussion is taking place in the context of issues of consistency of food and service, with the additional elephant in the room of soaring cost to the ticket-holder. It is admittedly a war of anecdotes.

So, let me add, no one, except the starfucker (although if said starfucker is deep enough, he might defend absence, so goes obsession and all) is going to care if Achatz or a Beran or Keller or GEB (ok, that was just a joke) is there if the show, I mean meal, is amazing and the service is luxurious/fitting. Yet, one might suppose or even expect, when the meal fails, that the presence of the chef might actually have made a difference.

Great experience - who cares if the face of the franchise is there!

Not-a-great experience - it matters that the chef is not there.

Either way, Nick Cocopuffs (light-hearted joke! I swear!) is richer than I.

Understandable to attribute the quality of your experience to whether or not Achatz is present, but myopic and misinformed in my opinion.

I gave up on Next a long time ago but I do think folks leaping to the defense of the almighty Kokonos crew are missing the point. I think most know that Achatz isn't in the kitchen at Next--it's Beran's restaurant to run. HOWEVER, when Beran is off in Scandinavia the first week of service in a restaurant whose entire concept changes 3x/year AND that has experienced some apparent challenges in rolling out those new menus, particularly this year, AND that has jacked prices to a level that has many staying on the sidelines where once there were fervent pleas for tickets and sellouts for most of the run--well, that seems like another situation. And a fair one to call attention to. For this and other reasons pointed out in detail here and elsewhere, Next seems to be in need of some refocusing and to do that, the head chef usually needs to be around. Beran takes that trip a month or two later when reviews are good and tickets are selling and no one says a word.

boudreaulicious wrote:I gave up on Next a long time ago but I do think folks leaping to the defense of the almighty AND that has experienced some apparent challenges in rolling out those new menus, particularly this year, AND that has jacked prices to a level that has many staying on the sidelines where once there were fervent pleas for tickets and sellouts for most of the run--well, that seems like another situation.

Beran was not present and while the meal was great, there was a lobster course that was overcooked. Also, he was not present during my visit to the "Steak" menu which had such a bad steak that it was comical. Would these problems have been caught if he were in the kitchen? No idea. In visits where he was around there may have been things not to my liking, but I can't say anything ever struck me as being executed poorly.

I think social media really has played a role in many people's annoyance with Next (including my own). If Charlie Trotter completely overhauled his menu in 1995 and then went on vacation two weeks later, who would have known? I am well aware it's the restaurant industry and they want to make money, but the live time bragging about how much they were making in ticket sales last December was beyond off putting.