Yum Cha Dim Sum Parlor, a collaboration between the folks behind Earth & Ocean in Mount Prospect and those behind Phoenix in Chinatown, opened on East Randolph Street last month, just next door to Mariano's. You won't find the gaudy decor typical of some of the more old school dim sum spots in Chinatown. Rather, a modern, upscale Asian-inspired dining room that could put it on par with Shanghai Terrace in terms of the crowd it attracts.
But if Yum Cha is going to attract and keep crowds, it must first achieve the very basics in restaurant service. For example, given that "Dim Sum Parlor" is part of Yum Cha's name and that Yum Cha serves dim sum at all hours, you would think that when you're seated on a Sunday afternoon that you would be given a full dim sum menu. Instead, we were given a menu that featured very limited dim sum options. Only after I mentioned with confusion that I thought they offered more dim sum were we given another menu with all available dim sum options.
That's when the real service gaffes began. First, there was the audible debate among the two waiters in the room concerning who would be waiting on our table. With only three other tables filled, this shouldn't have been an issue. Ten minutes went by and a waiter finally came over to take our order. We ordered tea, soda, water and dim sum. Another long gap and the first few dim sum items arrived, brought to the table by a runner we had not previously met. Of course, we still didn't have chopsticks or silverware, napkins, water or anything else to drink. We waited several more minutes for those.
Service never improved. Want more water? Raise your glass and pray someone sees you - rarely was there a service person in the dining room. What could they possibly have been doing? Normally, I might mention this to the host, or in this case hostesses, but since they could hardly figure out which one was going to seat our party, I decided to remain silent.
But luckily, there were food runners and the dim sum turned out to be very respectable, with a couple exceptions. My favorite item was Chef Henry's seafood dumplings. They were very delicate and delicious, and the seafood filling was beautifully cooked.
Chef Henry's Seafood Dumplings - apologies for crappy cell phone pics
Also very good were the bbq pork buns. These fluffy steamed buns filled with plenty of delicious bbq pork filling could compete with any for the best in Chinatown.
BBQ Pork BunsSticky rice in lotus leaf and steamed vegetable roll in soy wrapper were both delicious and on par with what you would expect to find at Phoenix. Most surprising though was the very respectable xiao long bao. Though the skin was gummier than it should have been, the filling was delicious and there was plenty of soup. And though the dipping sauce was not the usual black vinegar mixed with ginger, it was adequate and didn't detract from the delicious XLB.

Xiao Long Bao with vinegar dipping sauceThere were a couple of big misses, however. The pork and crab siu mai must have been over-steamed because they were rock hard.
Pork and Crab Siu MaiEven worse were the sesame balls with sweet bean paste. I was less bothered by the less ordinary yellow bean paste filling. The real problem is that these balls were so damn greasy. Take a look at the left over wrapper if you want to see what I mean.

Sesame Balls with Sweet Bean Paste and Grease-filled WrappersI have my doubts about Yum Cha's viability given the sparse crowds on a Sunday afternoon. No doubt the prime dim sum spots in Chinatown were packed at the same time. Maybe weekday lunch crowds will help? Probably not if service doesn't improve. And for me, the food would have had to be extraordinary to get over the truly abysmal service. But there were some very interesting items on the dim sum menu that I'd like to try, including the ubiquitous egg custard tart, but this one topped with foie gras. But Yum Cha will first have to get its house in order - this ranked among the worst service experiences I've had. Hopefully others will have better experiences and then I can give them another try . . . hopefully.
Yum Cha Dim Sum Parlor333 E Randolph St
Chicago, IL 60601
312.946.8885