Robuchon Potatoes/Pommes Puree

I considered posting this under the mashed potatoes thread, but Robuchon's potatoes are sufficiently different that I think it merits its own discussion.

I've had pommes puree before. It's on the menu at Nellcote, GEB, 10 Arts, and other places which slip my mind. I make it myself from time to time - it's simple enough. There are only four ingredients. In fact, I can say without boasting that my homemade version was better than the ones I've had at all of those places mentioned above. It's friggin' delicious - I still love regular mashed potatoes, but once you go 33% butter, there is no other.

There's a lengthy article on the Science of Mashed Potatoes explaining how it's supposed to work. I've studied it, experimented with it (and generally made things worse; the only improvement I've been able to make is to use truffle salt), and generally been satisfied with it. The comments from this Saveur article pretty much say it all:

I tried to try this out but got stopped at the reading: 1/4 cup milk and 1 lb butter for 2 lbs potatoes. Can't be right. So forged ahead with more milk and 8 tb. butter -- not to die for and probably stinting on the buerre. Could you print the correct recipe? Thanks.

Well, after having dinner at L'Atelier, I can honestly say that the gap between the original and my own is even wider than the gap between pommes puree and regular mashed potatoes.

I thought I had it; I was proud of myself. Now I'm wondering if I'll ever be able to cook it properly (though I do take some satisfaction that, based on my experiences at other restaurants, apparently I'm not the only one who can't). I've gotten the richness right. I've gotten the seasoning right. But I've apparently been falling far short in getting that perfect, silky-smooth texture.

I boiled them skin-on. I ran them through the food mill. I dehydrated them on the stovetop. I measured out exactly the right amount of Lurpak butter and kept it chilled. I warmed the milk. I did everything exactly as instructed except I used Yukon Gold instead of Ratte potatoes.

Is that enough to cause the difference? Should I try mixing in some waxy potatoes with the Yukon Golds to try and match the starch levels?

So, George, are we saying that Yukon Gold potatoes are waxy, not starchy enough?

And are you saying that Ratte potatoes are starchy? I have never heard of Ratte potatoes. Do they go by another name? Are they available in this area?

We love buttery mashed potatoes but the proportions of one pound of butter to two pounds potatoes seem so excessive! Still, how can you go wrong with that technique and those ingredients!

Joy wrote:So, George, are we saying that Yukon Gold potatoes are waxy, not starchy enough?

And are you saying that Ratte potatoes are starchy? I have never heard of Ratte potatoes. Do they go by another name? Are they available in this area?

Just the opposite, actually - from what I've read, I think that Yukon Golds are more starchy than the Ratte (which I've never seen or handled). I speak through sheer and utter ignorance, though, so I could be completely wrong.

I think this calls for an experiment - one batch with Yukon Gold, one batch with 80/20 Yukon Gold & Red potatoes, and one batch with 80/20 Yukon Gold & Idahos. That's going to be a pain to set up, though - I'd have to cook them on separate days, as I don't have the space or equipment to do a side-by-side. Even then, changing the composition would also likely change the amount of butter that could be incorporated, so I don't know if I can get a truly controlled result.

We love buttery mashed potatoes but the proportions of one pound of butter to two pounds potatoes seem so excessive! Still, how can you go wrong with that technique and those ingredients!

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