The egg roll search is something near and dear to my heart. For a while now, I’ve been chasing the memories of egg rolls past. I have two favorites, both from now defunct Chinese restaurants and I’m always on the lookout for worthy replacements.
My all-time favorite egg roll, the “ne plus ultra” of egg rolls, were those served by the long shuttered Abacus, a restaurant owned by someone named Dr. Shen (from what I remember, not a medical doctor, but a PhD in food science), formerly located on the northeast corner of Clark & Wrightwood. The Abacus egg roll was relatively fat and included king crab along with pork shrimp and peanut butter. I’ve never had another egg roll that even came close to this beauty.
The Abacus was pricey and not an everyday destination, but in those days Lincoln Park boasted quite a collection of good Chinese restaurants fit for every day consumption. Among them was Far East who, along with sister restaurant Pekin House on Devon, boasted what was for me the ur-peanut butter tinged egg roll. Now, both of those places are gone, but my search for egg rolls that are just as good continues.
Here are a few places that I’ve been to. There are more to come.
Orange GardenFirst up is long time board favorite Orange Garden.

Does the excellent mid-century neon sign and exterior design of the place go hand in hand with a quality egg roll? Yes, it does.
Orange Garden Egg Roll
These egg rolls were nicely crisp with just the right amount of grease. Egg rolls here are served with squeeze bottle sauces. The mustard was nice and pungent and the sweet sauce, while obviously homemade, was completely clear, with no little bits in it.

The filling had a tinge of peanut butter and shrimp. There was no discernible pork in this egg roll, but the cabbage was blanched so that it combined nicely with the rest of the filling and wasn’t too crunchy or dry, though it retained a nice texture. I liked these quite a bit.
Golden ChefNext, a repeat of one that Da Beef posted about. At a recent LTH North Group Lunch at Golden Chef, I had a chance to try their egg rolls. I was excited to try these because of the restaurant’s lineage to Hi Howe, which is another long gone favorite of mine.
Golden Chef Eggroll

The owners of Golden Chef go out of their way to prepare food that is both tasty and healthy. These egg rolls were crispy and greaseless…almost too greaseless. They tasted almost “clinical” in their healthfulness. There was a small bit of peanut butter taste, but overall, I didn’t enjoy these as much as some others that I’ve tried recently.
Palace RestaurantWhen I was at Orange Garden, I met a couple of guys who were culinary adventurers checking out old school Chinese restaurants. We struck up a conversation and when I told them I was on an egg roll quest, they highly recommended checking out Palace Restaurant in Morton Grove. When I got to Palace Restaurant, I realized it was a place that I had been to before with Pigmon and Trixie Pea. Not only that, but it appears that Palace Restaurant has already been profiled in this thread. In fact, it’s the very first place mentioned.
Palace Restaurant Egg Roll

As described upthread, these egg rolls were a little on the greasy side, but still retained some crispness. There was a little bit of peanut butter taste, but the veggies were a little limp. The menu claims both shrimp and pork are in the egg rolls, though both items are so well homogenized into the filling that I didn’t see any (though I could taste them). Sauces were house made and served in those particular metal containers that one frequently sees at Chinese restaurants. The sweet sauce was oddly light colored.
As a side note, the “#2 Palace Delight” lunch special, consisting of an egg roll, BBQ pork, two crispy fried wonton skins (these were fried very hard), a fried shrimp, two large chicken wings (fling portions) that were fried very crispy and rice. I actually thought the chicken wings were the star of the show, with the egg rolls relegated to a supporting player. Still, for $7 it’s a hell of a deal at lunch.
Sun WahNext up, another board favorite that is not normally thought of as a destination for egg rolls; Sun Wah.
Sun Wah Egg Roll

These egg rolls were perfectly fried, with just a hint of peanut butter. The distinguishing factor for Sun Wah’s egg rolls is that besides containing both pork and shrimp, they also contain duck; which lends a unique and excellent flavor. Sauces served in squeeze bottles. The mustard is nicely pungent and the sweet sauce is good.
It’s hard to remember to order egg rolls when visiting Sun Wah, but if the urge strikes, they are well worth it.
Hong Kong Chop SueyActing on a tip from my brother, I schlepped out to Mundelein to try the egg rolls at this innocuously named strip mall joint. Upon arriving, I found a place with a much more complex menu than the name would indicate.
Hong Kong Chop Suey Egg Roll

These egg rolls achieved the platonic ideal of the peanut butter egg roll for me. The filing consisted of pork, shrimp and chicken along with perfectly braised cabbage and more than a little taste of peanut butter. If, like me, your egg roll memories include Pekin House or Far East, these are the egg rolls for you. Make the trip to Mundelein!
Exploring the menu will have to wait for another day. I was there for the egg rolls, but an honorable mention has to go to the $2.75 bowl of won ton soup that I ordered to accompany the egg rolls.
Hong Kong Chop Suey Won Ton Soup
I’ll let this picture do the talking, but if the rest of the food delivers as well as the egg roll and soup did, I’ll be making that 40 minute trek on a regular basis.
That’s it for now. More later as time permits.
Orange Garden
1942 W Irving Park Rd
Chicago, IL 60613
(773) 525-7479
Golden Chef
600 S Milwaukee Ave
Wheeling, IL 60090
(847) 537-7100
Palace Restaurant
9236 Waukegan Rd
Morton Grove, IL 60053
(847) 966-2231
Sun Wah BBQ
5039 N Broadway St
Chicago, IL 60640
(773) 769-1254
Hong Kong Chop Suey
316 N Lake St
Mundelein, IL 60060
(847) 949-9019
Steve Z.
“Only the pure in heart can make a good soup.”
― Ludwig van Beethoven