As a lover of most things Jamaican, I was quite surprised whilst cruising down Chicago Ave. to see a new spot named after one of my favorite Wailer's tunes in the old Sak's location at Oakley. Last night we stopped by and found a dressed up, sleek loungey affair with island touches to the decor. As an avid reggae record collector, I was a bit troubled by the generic selection of Jamaican LP sleeves framed as wall decoration- hoping that the authenticity of the food would not be analogous to the spring-break soundtrack of Marley's "Legend" greatest hits record, which unfortunately over the years has dumbed down the incendiary political relevance of Marley's music for the beach bumming party set.
There is a brief cocktail list that includes an interesting sounding punch of ingredients I cannot remember and a house cocktail that lost my interest as soon as I read "Bailey's". I was hoping to order a dark and stormy, which the gregarious bartender was happy to accommodate using on- hand Myer's (not my favorite rum) and delicious DG's ginger beer.
The menu is priced comparable to the neighborhood- think nearby Chickpea's price hike on Palestinian grub that most of us are used to buying on the cheap. Entrees ranged from $12- $15. There are daily specials and last night it was two-for-one patties, which seemed to be a good litmus test for the rest of the chow. And they were not so great, the pastry was meh, not far off from frozen pot pie, lacking the distinct yellow hue from turmeric. The veggie filling had the consistency of cooked down frozen vegetable medley and had very little spicing, whereas most veggie patties I've sampled have curry notes and at least a little bit of chile zing. My speculation was that these pastries are frozen food service grade- things were not looking up. Fortunately, entrees fared much better. The portions were huge (unlike said Chickpea). I ordered curry goat- skeptical to order jerk by lack of a visible smoker- but my companion took the plunge on the jerk chicken. My goat plate was piled with meat in gravy and had just enough bones to make it seem homestyle, but not so many as to annoy like some preps of this dish that I have partook. The curry gravy was rich with fork tender goat meat and was not overly chile hot until augmented with Scotch bonnet hot sauce. Overall, it was as good as any I've had. The sides included a brighter and crunchier-than-usual sauteed cabbage (a nice contrast to the thick unctuousness of the curry, though I preferred the version I had recently at Ja's); plantains that were as ripe as maduros, but deep fried like tostones, though not smashed; and a side cup of rice and peas that had good coconut flavor and were very much enjoyed as a vehicle for extra curry sauce when dumped onto the plate. Dining companion's jerk was surprisingly good. It was dry rubbed and charcoal grilled, with a discernible charred flavor. A hot jerk sauce was liberally applied to the bird, post grilling. In a nutshell, this wasn't Chicago hybrid smoked/stewed jerk nor was it smoked, but it was cooked well- juicy meat with a nice resistant chew, bits of crisp well-spiced skin and a respectable jerk sauce.
There were a few service snafus, but I hate to publicly disdain a brand new restaurant in that department. All in all, a nice addition to the neighborhood- friendly folks, decent drinks, food showing promise but not yet on all marks. Depending on the situation, it would be hard not to drive the extra mile and a half or so for the more homestyle and 1/3 cheaper
Ja's, but for a date or a more dressed-up drinks-and-dinner occasion, I can see my self returning to Mr. Brown's. I'd say the downtown cool of Marley's Lee Perry-produced "Mr. Brown" is an apt reggae metaphor for the joint rather than the tan-lined redundancy of the "Legend" record. (They might need some new album sleeves)
Mr. Brown's Lounge
2301 W. Chicago Ave.
Chicago, IL 60612
772-278-4445
http://www.mrbrownslounge.com