Restaurant Week Good/Restaurant Week Bad
Did RW menus on two consecutive nights, sort of intentionally. First was Chicago Oyster House with some friends, mostly because it is a 5 minute walk and we had to try it sometime. The Clam Chowder was uninspiring. The fresh oysters were very good. I had some called Chef's Creek from the Northeast. The seared tuna was a frozen chunk that had lost most of what might have, at one time, identified it as tuna. The key lime pie was purchased somewhere, not bad, sort of like the Clam Chowder.
I had not intended to do the RW menu there, but the rest of the table did, so I tagged along. Everyone else went with the grilled lobster tail as their main. Also frozen, also not really worth eating. Strangely C.O.H. does not permit corkage, so we went with some unfiltered Sake that turned out to be very sweet, followed by a Chilean Cab, Los Vascos, that was not the vintage on the list, but was good. Yes, an unusual pairing, but I actually had tried this at the suggestion of a sommelier when in Chile a few years ago, and it worked pretty well then and now.
I will go back for fresh oysters, nothing that the kitchen has to cook.
The next night we took the son out for a birthday dinner. After some thought, I chose Roka Akor because he lives not too far away and he is living the sort of flashy young professional lifestyle that Roka Akor seems to cater to. I thought he would like it. When I planned this out I had not really considered that I was doing two places on consecutive nights whose focus was (partly anyway) fresh seafood with an Asian slant. The similarity ends there. I had been to Roka once before and felt very out of place, understood the place is about seeing and being seen, but also remembered the food as being uniformly very good. This was a quiet Sunday night so I did not feel quite as much like a fat, old uncle. The waiter was very, very good. And the food was even better than I remembered. Still expensive, but delicious.
This time, I was the only one who had the menu. Salmon Tataki was fresh, sweet, and well dressed. It is a full serving (five bite sized pieces) that could easily be shared. The waiter recommended the grilled lamb chops with Korean seasoning. Three (!) large, meaty, cooked perfectly (I asked for medium rare, despite being advised to have the medium), well seasoned with a lovely chile dipping sauce. Finished with a pear tart which was lovely, buttery. We also shared various other dishes and both my companions dined ala carte. I still am a bit put off by the atmosphere, though it is a pretty room, and there are always lots of pretty people to watch as well. And it is expensive for what is a fairly simple cuisine, though they do seem to use excellent ingredients. Still, it is an excellent robata grill and sushi - in addition to the excellent ingredients, there is perfect technique and a very nice touch of creativity coming out of wherever the corporate Chef de cuisine is guiding the chain. And the RW menu is a great deal.
Off to RW at David Burke tomorrow for the Bride's birthday. She wanted steak, and I have never been. I think the RW menu there, with the multitude of upcharge/upgrades offered, does present a decent way to enjoy a dry aged steak at a slight discount. But I am not going for a bargain.
My reading on RW - completely depends on the place. Some, like Roka Akor, offer excellent menus at a good price; others are just repackaging the same old or worse at no savings, and should be avoided. Are any of them better than my favorite taqueria, Chinatown spot, or a place where a great chef is at his/her peak (like Elizabeth, say) - absolutely not. And as at Elizabeth, there are ways to enjoy those places at reasonable prices, too, if you look. Because of all the celebration dinners this past week I had occasion to read through almost every RW menu, and the conclusion is obvious to me. If you want to try a place, do it; otherwise this is no deal. And when you are there, don't get stuck on the RW menu. I knew better at Chicago Oyster House, but still went along.
From a business point of view, I suspect the difference between Roka and C.O.H. is that the former views it as a marketing expense, and is making the effort to assure diners have an excellent experience so they will come back, while the latter views it purely as added business that needs to add to profitability. I am slightly curious as to what the ala carte selections would be like, if they would be better. But I am in no hurry to explore that. Lost opportunity for them, but they did make a good buck on our table of four.
My two cents.
Chicago Oyster House
1933 S. Indiana
Chicago
Roka Akor
456 N Clark St
Chicago
d
Feeling (south) loopy