rehorn wrote:If I'm trying to roughly estimate how long a dinner at Goosefoot might be, does anyone have any ideas? A couple hours? Thanks.

With a two-top it took us about three hours, and with a six-top four-hours-plus, IIRC. Both times we brought quite a bit of wine, however, so that might have clued the (excellent) servers that we were in no hurry and wanted to sit and relax. Certainly it could be done quicker, and has been, as mentioned above.

rehorn wrote:If I'm trying to roughly estimate how long a dinner at Goosefoot might be, does anyone have any ideas? A couple hours? Thanks.

Table size and the timing of your reservation are factors, but it is generally around a three hour experience if dining as a two top and can be approximately 3.5 to 4 hours if a larger party. If you are one of the first tables seated for the night it may speed up the meal, especially for the earlier courses, since the kitchen will not yet be churning out dishes for a full house. The kitchen is quite small so it is definitely a leisurely experience. I am perfectly fine with lengthy meals there as I enjoy the space, the staff are so friendly and I bring plenty of wine to sip between courses. The meal is definitely an event and the focal point of my evening.

Thanks, everyone. This is very helpful, as I think I definitely underestimated how long a nice meal at Goosefoot could take. Sounds lovely and I hope to make it happen soon.

Bspar mentioned something above that I can relate to-- I'm not a huge wine drinker, and I prefer beer. So:

Can anyone recommend a beer that might pair well with some of the courses at Goosefoot? If not, any recommendations for some sort of rather dry wine? We are certainly not big drinkers (e.g., don't need a different beverage for dessert)--- but we do want to show up at the restaurant with some sort of alcohol that will complement the meal. Many thanks!

rehorn wrote:Bspar mentioned something above that I can relate to-- I'm not a huge wine drinker, and I prefer beer. So:

Can anyone recommend a beer that might pair well with some of the courses at Goosefoot? If not, any recommendations for some sort of rather dry wine? We are certainly not big drinkers (e.g., don't need a different beverage for dessert)--- but we do want to show up at the restaurant with some sort of alcohol that will complement the meal. Many thanks!

I was there this evening with the IWFS Chicago. We had both a Kabinett Riesling and a Chablis that went well with the scallop and salmon courses, respectively. I would opt for a Riesling that could go with both. The menu at Goosefoot is very white wine friendly.

If you prefer beer, just find any made with Nelson Sauvin hops. It has a bit of a sauvignon blanc character. My favorite is Alpine Nelson IPA, but it might be a little tough to find around here.

I think a beer that has some coriander in it pairs nicely with the middle course.

As well as perhaps a subtle peppercorn beer for the duck and beef?

Certainly nothing too hop-heavy

I am also the type of guy that brought all beer to Schwa so I can be pretty intense about my beer pairings.

I know I didnt have anything specific, but sometimes it's hard to know what the local store would have.

Are you going soon?

Thanks for the ideas. Bspar -- Yes, we're going next week. Barring another Polar Vortex, we will be there!

Had a great meal at Goosefoot last night and enjoyed terrific food and warm, attentive service. Nina, wife of chef Chris Nugent, is so personable and hospitable, and she knows her guests by name. Service was attentive and servers were well-informed about every dish. I loved how several dishes came with little garnishes of flowers and/or vegetables next to a dot of sauce, and the server would always encourage us to "feel free to mix it in with the rest of the dish." We were always glad we did; those little tidbit garnishes packed a lot of interesting flavor and were more than just eye candy.

I cannot choose a favorite dish, as they all were really excellent. The chestnut soup was quite luxurious, and for some reason, I'm obsessed with their berry or pomegranate elixir-like palate cleanser that they gave us. There also was a foie gras course called "duck/duck/gooseberry" which I believe was relatively new, and it was delicious. I also really, really liked the guava/citrus infusion/lychee/ginger dessert, which surprised me, given that I tend to prefer chocolate desserts to all else, it seems.

Everything was just incredibly solid all around. My only minor question or wondering had to do with the fact that both dessert courses plus the final chocolate bite all involved fruits -- all with some tropical notes in my view-- and perhaps one of the dessert courses could have benefited from not being so fruit-focused, but maybe this was by design (?). One course was the aforementioned guava one, and the next course was chocolate/cassis/banana/sea salt/coconut, followed by the final "bite" of a handmade chocolate covering a center of guava or some other sort of tropical fruit cream. We were wondering if this was deliberate, that perhaps multi-course menus are in fact designed to offer some continuity of a particular element or two - in this case, fruits--- across dishes, rather than each course just being its own, separate thing. (?)

I also should mention that for our BYOB choice, we brought a Mirabelle brut rose, which worked quite well. (We are light drinkers, not that into wine, and wanted to bring only one bottle that would have some versatility and a bit of dryness.) One of the folks at the Standard Market wine section helped us and directed us to it. (http://www.bevmo.com/Shop/ProductDetail ... -Rose/5529). In any event, it was a lovely dinner!

Sounds Great!

I was there about 2 weeks prior to you and there was no foie course.

Which bums me out as foie gras is one of my favorites.

But it's also really good to know that some things are moving in and out of the menu!

Glad you enjoyed.

Goosefoot Food and Wine Shop Opens Next to Michelin-Starred Restaurant

http://www.dnainfo.com/chicago/20141015 ... restaurant

That's great news. Chef and his wife have been talking about it since I started dining at Goosefoot last year. It sure would have came in handy a few months back when my bag broke and my bottle for the evening smashed at my feet 5 steps from the door.

I'm heading back in for a meal on Halloween. I know some criticize goosefoot for not changing very frequently, but A few major and minor tweaks mixed with some familiarity keeps me coming back when the food is on that level. Looking forward to checking out the shop before dinner.

Just wondering if anyone's been to goosefoot recently. Trying to book a reservation here for a special occasion a couple of months from now, and I'm having some trouble choosing between this, North Pond's tasting menu, EL Ideas, or Schwa. If they were still open, I'd also be including Senza and Henri.

Can anyone help me decide between these (or recommend another restaurant with a tasting menu under $150pp)? We like trying all food and don't have a preference for formal/informal dining.

Behavioral wrote:Just wondering if anyone's been to goosefoot recently. Trying to book a reservation here for a special occasion a couple of months from now, and I'm having some trouble choosing between this, North Pond's tasting menu, EL Ideas, or Schwa. If they were still open, I'd also be including Senza and Henri.

Can anyone help me decide between these (or recommend another restaurant with a tasting menu under $150pp)? We like trying all food and don't have a preference for formal/informal dining.

I went about three months ago; have been about a half dozen times and what I love about Goosefoot is that it is so consistent. I have loved nearly every course and the service is always warm & friendly. If you are looking for an energetic, interactive, adventurous celebration I'd opt for El Ideas (Goosefoot and El are both among my favorites in Chicago) but if you want a more intimate, laid back experience Goosefoot is perfect.

Behavioral wrote:I'm having some trouble choosing between this, North Pond's tasting menu, EL Ideas, or Schwa.

I've been to the first three in the past year or so. I loved North Pond (in fact, I named it my best Chicago-area dinner in 2014, in this topic. I like Goosefoot a lot; most of the dishes are very good. El Ideas, not so much; I know others enjoy it but I found the food disappointing, without any "wow" dishes. With Schwa, there's always that risk of a last-minute cancellation, so there's that.

For food, I'd put North Pond at the top of this group. The savory food is excellent, and the desserts are the very best in the entire city right now (and I'm glad pastry chef Greg Mosko is getting recognized for them). And of course, the setting in the park, facing the pond and the city skyline, is exquisite. (Remember to request seating in the front room facing the pond when making your reservation.) If you enjoy expensive wines, though, this is the only one of the group that is not BYOB, so that could swing your choice away from North Pond. Goosefoot does a very nice job, although it's a tough reservation so you need to book well in advance. El Ideas and Schwa both offer a non-conventional experience, so if you're looking for that, they may be worth considering for that reason.

Gonzo70 wrote:I went about three months ago; have been about a half dozen times and what I love about Goosefoot is that it is so consistent. I have loved nearly every course and the service is always warm & friendly. If you are looking for an energetic, interactive, adventurous celebration I'd opt for El Ideas (Goosefoot and El are both among my favorites in Chicago) but if you want a more intimate, laid back experience Goosefoot is perfect.

Thanks for your input! That basically validates what I've heard about Goosefoot and helps me differentiate EL Ideas with others in its price range.

nsxtasy wrote:

Behavioral wrote:I'm having some trouble choosing between this, North Pond's tasting menu, EL Ideas, or Schwa.

I've been to the first three in the past year or so. I loved North Pond (in fact, I named it my best Chicago-area dinner in 2014, in this topic. I like Goosefoot a lot; most of the dishes are very good. El Ideas, not so much; I know others enjoy it but I found the food disappointing, without any "wow" dishes. With Schwa, there's always that risk of a last-minute cancellation, so there's that.

For food, I'd put North Pond at the top of this group. The savory food is excellent, and the desserts are the very best in the entire city right now (and I'm glad pastry chef Greg Mosko is getting recognized for them). And of course, the setting in the park, facing the pond and the city skyline, is exquisite. (Remember to request seating in the front room facing the pond when making your reservation.) If you enjoy expensive wines, though, this is the only one of the group that is not BYOB, so that could swing your choice away from North Pond. Goosefoot does a very nice job, although it's a tough reservation so you need to book well in advance. El Ideas and Schwa both offer a non-conventional experience, so if you're looking for that, they may be worth considering for that reason.

Thank you, nsxtasy, for your reply, too! I just read your thorough review and now North Pond may have a slight edge. The girlfriend and I have been there for their prix fixe brunch, which was great. To boot, it's also a few blocks from where we live.

I really appreciate the help!

“4 years and a goosefoot®
chef’s table is born”

goosefoot® started out as our dream to create a modern contemporary b.y.o.b. restaurant that challenged and changed the landscape of fine dining. We have been honored and delighted to meet all of you, our wonderful guests, and to see you celebrate and share your special occasions with us. Thank you for opening your hidden treasures from your wine collections, we are eager to see your new additions!

As we celebrate our 4th birthday we are excited to share some wonderful changes at goosefoot®.

This December goosefoot® is changing the dynamics adding an all chef table format to the restaurant. We are moving the plating area of the kitchen into the dining room, allowing us to share our visual artistry and philosophy of cuisine with you, our guests.



The dining experience will be very intimate and cozy with only 24 guests per evening. Reservations are available Wednesday through Saturday – 6:00 p.m. and 8:00 p.m.
We will start taking reservations on October 19th, 2015.

Twelve course chef table format all-inclusive $220, charged 2 weeks prior to your reservation, will include: chef table menu, service charge, still or sparkling water, coffee, tea and tax.


goosefoot reservations website
goosefoot® food & wine offers a wonderful selection of wine for your dining experience at goosefoot®.

We have a very small team; unfortunately for this menu we will be unable to accommodate any food restrictions. Thank you for your understanding.

We are very excited and look forward to seeing you soon.

Sincerely,
Chris & Nina




So pardon the post, I'm mobile and just got this email. Looks like goosefoot is going after a higher level, and with chef nugent's cuisine I can see why, some of the most perfect food coming out of Chicago. Price point appears to include tax and tip and isn't that far off while offering more courses. Only downside for me is the no restrictions. Seems like the most difficult place to get a reservation in Chicago is going to get that much more.

Still, really hoping they raise the bar.

This is the most cloying post I've seen lately, Goosefoot registered trademark. Feel free to delete me.

pepsican wrote:
Twelve course chef table format all-inclusive $220, charged 2 weeks prior to your reservation, will include: chef table menu, service charge, still or sparkling water, coffee, tea and tax.

So, at 10.25% tax and 20% tip, that's around $165 for the food, water, coffee/tea. Meal I had there was amazing, so I'd be happy to go back at that price.

pepsican wrote:“4 years and a goosefoot®
chef’s table is born”

goosefoot® started out as our dream to create a modern contemporary b.y.o.b. restaurant that challenged and changed the landscape of fine dining. We have been honored and delighted to meet all of you, our wonderful guests, and to see you celebrate and share your special occasions with us. Thank you for opening your hidden treasures from your wine collections, we are eager to see your new additions!

As we celebrate our 4th birthday we are excited to share some wonderful changes at goosefoot®.

This December goosefoot® is changing the dynamics adding an all chef table format to the restaurant. We are moving the plating area of the kitchen into the dining room, allowing us to share our visual artistry and philosophy of cuisine with you, our guests.



The dining experience will be very intimate and cozy with only 24 guests per evening. Reservations are available Wednesday through Saturday – 6:00 p.m. and 8:00 p.m.
We will start taking reservations on October 19th, 2015.

Twelve course chef table format all-inclusive $220, charged 2 weeks prior to your reservation, will include: chef table menu, service charge, still or sparkling water, coffee, tea and tax.


goosefoot reservations website
goosefoot® food & wine offers a wonderful selection of wine for your dining experience at goosefoot®.

We have a very small team; unfortunately for this menu we will be unable to accommodate any food restrictions. Thank you for your understanding.

We are very excited and look forward to seeing you soon.

Sincerely,
Chris & Nina




So pardon the post, I'm mobile and just got this email. Looks like goosefoot is going after a higher level, and with chef nugent's cuisine I can see why, some of the most perfect food coming out of Chicago. Price point appears to include tax and tip and isn't that far off while offering more courses. Only downside for me is the no restrictions. Seems like the most difficult place to get a reservation in Chicago is going to get that much more.

Still, really hoping they raise the bar.

Do you work for/promote Goosefoot? Pitching it as "the most difficult place to get a reservation in Chicago" is flat out wrong & misleading. Reservations really aren't tough to get - for example, there are currently tables available @ 6:30 & 8PM for this coming Friday. I do enjoy their food, but it's really not a "hot ticket" as you imply..

No, I don't even live in Chicago. I just received that email and wanted to pass on the info. Of all the fine dining restaurants in Chicago, goosefoot continues to be the one I have a difficult time getting a reservation for. Read the thread others share a similar experience.

Possumlad wrote:

pepsican wrote:“4 years and a goosefoot®
chef’s table is born”

goosefoot® started out as our dream to create a modern contemporary b.y.o.b. restaurant that challenged and changed the landscape of fine dining. We have been honored and delighted to meet all of you, our wonderful guests, and to see you celebrate and share your special occasions with us. Thank you for opening your hidden treasures from your wine collections, we are eager to see your new additions!

As we celebrate our 4th birthday we are excited to share some wonderful changes at goosefoot®.

This December goosefoot® is changing the dynamics adding an all chef table format to the restaurant. We are moving the plating area of the kitchen into the dining room, allowing us to share our visual artistry and philosophy of cuisine with you, our guests.



The dining experience will be very intimate and cozy with only 24 guests per evening. Reservations are available Wednesday through Saturday – 6:00 p.m. and 8:00 p.m.
We will start taking reservations on October 19th, 2015.

Twelve course chef table format all-inclusive $220, charged 2 weeks prior to your reservation, will include: chef table menu, service charge, still or sparkling water, coffee, tea and tax.


goosefoot reservations website
goosefoot® food & wine offers a wonderful selection of wine for your dining experience at goosefoot®.

We have a very small team; unfortunately for this menu we will be unable to accommodate any food restrictions. Thank you for your understanding.

We are very excited and look forward to seeing you soon.

Sincerely,
Chris & Nina




So pardon the post, I'm mobile and just got this email. Looks like goosefoot is going after a higher level, and with chef nugent's cuisine I can see why, some of the most perfect food coming out of Chicago. Price point appears to include tax and tip and isn't that far off while offering more courses. Only downside for me is the no restrictions. Seems like the most difficult place to get a reservation in Chicago is going to get that much more.

Still, really hoping they raise the bar.

Do you work for/promote Goosefoot? Pitching it as "the most difficult place to get a reservation in Chicago" is flat out wrong & misleading. Reservations really aren't tough to get - for example, there are currently tables available @ 6:30 & 8PM for this coming Friday. I do enjoy their food, but it's really not a "hot ticket" as you imply..

Not too long ago Goosefoot was the most difficult reservation in town - once they did their second price increase (from $115 to $135) there was a better balance between supply and demand and since soon after that time reservations have not been nearly as scarce. Good chance they will become a difficult score again in the near future - the new format features far fewer covers per/day (and the restaurant will be open one day less per/week than before, four versus five). I am really excited to experience Goosefoot 2.0 - it has been a favorite of mine since Day 1 and the new format should allow Chef Nugent to be even more creative as well as help alleviate the pacing issue some have experienced in the past. The current price increase to me seems very fair between the more intimate experience, expanded number of courses and inclusiveness of non alcoholic beverages, tax and gratuity.

pepsican wrote:No, I don't even live in Chicago. I just received that email and wanted to pass on the info. Of all the fine dining restaurants in Chicago, goosefoot continues to be the one I have a difficult time getting a reservation for. Read the thread others share a similar experience.

I understood that you were just relaying their email. I also understood that you were just adding your opinion after that (as we all do around here) when you described it as "the most difficult place to get a reservation in Chicago". But I can also see where it might have been a bit confusing to read. Probably best to frame outside material in quote code and ID the source above or below that.

Thanks,

=R=
for the Mods

This is why I apologized for being mobile. This forum is ancient (circa 2003?) in format and not optimized for modern web use. Was pretty excited to see one of my favorite restaurants in the city turning it up a notch. Next time I won't bother to post content in order not to offend people.

pepsican wrote:This is why I apologized for being mobile. This forum is ancient (circa 2003?) in format and not optimized for modern web use. Was pretty excited to see one of my favorite restaurants in the city turning it up a notch. Next time I won't bother to post content in order not to offend people.

*sigh* I don't think anyone was suggesting that. Personally, I appreciated you passing their news onto us.

=R=

pepsican wrote:This forum is ancient (circa 2003?) in format and not optimized for modern web use.

And I thought the transition from Usenet to IRC was wild and crazy. You kids and your Web 3.0. I'm feeling some serious command-line nostalgia right now.

Further BTW, Goosefoot® doesn't cloy for me, but it does strike me as sorta dickish™.

[Warning: very long]

What an extraordinary evening. For those who haven’t been lately, they’re moving toward chocolate making (more on that below) and to that end now have only one seating per night, sixteen guests. There is one host, Nina Nugent. There is one chef, Chris Nugent, and there appears to be no one else in the kitchen. In four hours there, we saw exactly one other person working there. We were more than a little surprised to see no one but Chris and Nina. From time to time, Chris helps out with plating in the main dining room—there are two islands on which sixteen plates/bowls/serving pieces are set and either or both Nina and Chris spend time prepping each serving. Nina does much, but not all, of the presenting and clearing. Chris helps out.

For those who have never experienced Chris Nugent in person, let’s just say he’s the polar opposite of Curtis Duffy. While Duffy is almost painfully shy, Nugent is hyped (a la the late Homaro Cantu), nonstop free association. There is clearly much depth and thought in everything he does, but he can come across as a little overwhelming. None of this would matter if the food wasn’t worth the trip. We’ve eaten his food at Les Nomades, at MK, and years ago, at Prairie—somehow we missed Bêtise. In any case, we’ve always come away impressed with his food and the other night was no exception. The food was exceptional—easily worth its Michelin star. And yet. There were two things: first were the “issues” or small hiccups, nothing significant enough to keep us away, but worth mentioning, I think. And second was our take on the overall evening.

Since everyone arrives pretty much within five or ten minutes of each other, it takes time for all to settle in and for Chris and Nina to get up to speed. We were the last two to arrive and though we were quickly settled and given water and my first wine, we sat with nothing to do but twiddle our thumbs for a full half hour while the first course was readied and then served. There is no bread service and there was truly nothing to do but look around the small—nicely appointed—room and listen to the eclectic playlist (curated by Nina; we enjoyed chatting with her about what was on it and why). After half an hour, one is a little antsy. The chef’s tasting menu is predetermined and though 12 courses are listed, some came in multiples: thus, three arrived on a single serving piece, two on another. One thing we noticed about the menu immediately was that what seemed key ingredients to us were sometimes omitted from the printed descriptions. For example, one element of the second course is described as “goosefoot & cherry soup/citrus oil.” We barely noted the cherry but front and center (and, indeed, the first ingredient that Nina mentioned when she delivered it) was beet. It takes nothing away from the quality or deliciousness of the food, but I guess it was a bit of a surprise to read what was coming, anticipate it, and then get something that felt odd. Not wrong, certainly, but it’s one thing to anticipate cherry and something else to “get” beet.

A number of the courses were also highlighted with either greens or blossoms from their own garden. Not only were these absolutely pristine and eye-catching, Chris came by late in the meal with his cell phone and showed (and explained in some detail) what was what in their garden. This brings up one of my takeaways from the evening: the unmistakable pride that both Nina and Chris took in presenting each course, particularly those courses where the food was enhanced by something from their own garden. It’s pretty much the norm these days to have servers who can give you the provenance of every one of two dozen individually tweezed ingredients that compose the dish they are setting down in front of you. Some even have a knack for making parts of that explanation and presentation interesting. But it is almost unheard of—at least in my experience—to hear, to feel the pride of those who have thought deeply about what they are growing and why and who have nurtured it from seed to plant, from garden to plate, and then show and explain it all to you. More than once, a course was accompanied by a tiny, perfect blossom of a kind that had appeared earlier. That fact did nothing to detract from the sheer joy and pleasure Nina (or Chris) took in telling you what it was and why it was there.


pine/rosemary/coriander/pea tendrils


goosefoot & cherry soup/citrus oil[/b] – beet was a key item here – in the tiny pitcher
foie gras mousse/huckleberry/honeybush tea[/b] – with the tiny spoon
oolong tea/mint/lime[/b] – in the tiny vial, to be drunk as a palate cleanser (a terrific idea after the foie mousse—and a stellar, intense item)


hard at work


scallop/dehydrated butter/lobster/lemongrass


chestnut soup/trumpet royal/truffle essence


maitake mushroom tortellini/smoked rabbit/perigord truffle


angus beef/winter/meyer lemon/nasturtium – highlighted with a pour of a special olive oil from a supplier in Petaluma

At this point, Nina began decorating the central island in the room. No longer were there sixteen serving pieces being prepped; something larger was clearly being readied. Item after item was brought out and meticulously placed or set up. Depending on where you were seated in the room, you could get some sense from three large panels—or not (if you were seated “behind” them as we and another table were). The music shifted: from quiet bossa nova we now were treated to the Beatles, mostly circa the White Album. Unlike earlier in the evening, Beatles succeeded Beatles. And Nina came out to tell us about their devotion to the group; they both clearly feel a deep connection to the group. Nina noted that Chris’s birthday is within a week of John Lennon’s. She explained the significance of the (magic) mushrooms and certain other pieces on the island.




Beatles shrine

Okay. Well, we like the Beatles. But we do not understand the shrine as part of the meal. No course bore any tie or relation to the shrine. If there was a connection between anything on the shrine and our meal or between the music and the meal, it completely escaped us. It was—or seemed to us—nothing so much as an oddly self-indulgent desire to share their fervor with their diners. “Um, I’m glad that you like connecting stamps from Zanzibar and yes, they’re really pretty, but why are you showing them to me?” That said, they are so earnest, so…intent that you have a wonderful evening, it feels churlish to note things like this. And yet.


sheep’s milk cheese/concord grape/dragon fruit/pear – from top

sheep’s milk cheese/concord grape/dragon fruit/pear – from side


yuzu/mango/quince/olive oil


passion fruit/sorrel/coconut/lime – on the top
chocolate/caramelized banana/coffee/sea salt/hazelnut - inside

A somewhat bigger problem with the evening as a whole is not, I think, becomes clear from the menu as you study it: the number of soups or items to be drunk and, in consequence, the very small number of more “substantive” entrees. Indeed, the very first course, then the cherry/beet soup in the second group of courses, then the palate cleanser, then the lobster soup, followed by the chestnut soup. The first half or more of the evening is quite soup-heavy. We understand, as Nina said at one point, that soups are something Chris really enjoys and does well, but we were disappointed that the only substantial courses were the scallop, the tortellini and the angus beef. That said, every course was excellent. There were many high points. I think it’s also fair to say that nothing was out of the park.

When there are six or more tables of people and one server, dinner inevitably proceeds at the pace of the slowest table. Several tables had more than two people and so it was nearly inevitable that two-tops like ours finished first. Even if the four- and five-tops were served first and the two-tops last, the two-tops would always finish ahead. Then we would wait another half hour while the larger tables finished, while the next course was readied, and while the next course was eventually served. It made for a slow—sometimes a very slow—progression. We understand that this is a part of creating a cozy, homey feeling and, in a sense, we applaud it. But we also believe that adding a single additional server and/or a single additional prep person, could have made this a more…expeditious…meal without sacrificing the coziness.

Given that goosefoot is only $15 less than Grace, it’s hard not compare them on some level. They’re cl early not striving for the same kind of evening and it’s unfair to hold them to a one-to-one comparison simply on the basis of price. At the same time, it’s an analysis I think many diners would consider when thinking: “I have $x to spend on a nice dinner, where should I go?” I don’t think it’s entirely unreasonable to compare the experiences. At Grace, you are cosseted and every possible need anticipated and catered to. There are so many staff there that invariably it seems people are standing around simply waiting to be of service. Grace is about sitting in the lap of luxury. Goosefoot on the other hand, is about being in someone’s home. There is a different kind of comfort in being there. You’ll get served when Nina is able to do so. I mentioned the half hour wait initially; although the pace improved noticeably once service actually started, there were inevitable waits occasioned solely by the fact that they have chosen not to have even a single additional server. I think that that’s a mistake. We enjoyed the feeling of being in their home and welcomed personally; it’s a treat to have the chef come out not once but several times and talk with you (though, as I mentioned above, his stream-of-consciousness conversation proved a little difficult for us to engage). But at the end of the day, it’s an evening out and while we certainly appreciated the amount of time and attention being paid to everything, it would have been more enjoyable for us to be served a bit more expeditiously. We started at 6:30 pm and didn’t leave until after 10:30 pm. Ten courses in four hours. That works out to about one course per half hour. (And it’s not inappropriate to note that at that pace, you get full sooner than you might otherwise.)

Nugent is extremely talented. Of that, there can be no doubt. But our take was that in creating the feeling they are after, they have unintentionally caused other problems for themselves. Chris Nugent appears to be by himself in the kitchen. Whether he has minimal help (neither one of us could see anyone in the kitchen) or not, and even acknowledging possible assistance during the day, he seems to have placed a limit on what he can achieve. It seems inarguable that two or even three people in the kitchen can do more than one person. That fact alone has something to do with what is—or even can be—served. With one additional person up front, it’s likely that what might be prepared and served might likewise be quite different and highlight his talents in a very different way, to say nothing of making the actual serving and pacing quite different.


goosefoot® chocolate – parting gift (notice intricate Mayan decoration)

I mentioned in the very first paragraph something that was explained to us late in the evening: their desire to move to chocolate-making. The Nugents decided that they couldn’t start by making chocolate full time, hence the restaurant is and has been partly a means to an end. And it should be noted that one of the “parting gifts” was an exquisitely hand-crafted chocolate bar. Likewise, another gift was a generous packet of field pea shoot seeds, complete with detailed planting instructions. This, too, is evidence of their remarkable thoughtfulness and, indeed, their devotion to their garden and the importance of its place in what they do. We left, finally, not just with souvenir menus but with souvenir menus carrying hand-written notes from the Nugents. Their love and devotion to what they do is evident in a more immediate way than what happens when you leave Grace or Alinea. That is not to say that Achatz or Duffy is any less devoted or loves what he does any less—but the way it is brought home is far more evident at goosefoot.

I certainly hope I’ve made clear how much we liked the food. At the same time, I think it’s important to make a distinction between the food and the evening. We thought that the food was terrific; we liked the evening and particularly appreciated the effort, the pride, and the enormous dedication. In the end, though, I think that the distinction between quality of food and quality of overall experience was greater here than anywhere else we can recall offhand. Much as we loved the food, neither of us sees returning any time soon: we’re really glad we went, we enjoyed it a great deal, and now we need to try somewhere else.

Thank you, gypsy boy, for an amazing post and all the work and time you put into it. I think you've captured both the food and the experience of Goosefoot incredibly well, by being articulate, thoughtful, and entertaining. Bravo!

Agreed. Awesome summary.

About ten years ago I worked in a restaurant that at the beginning was Chicago magazine's top restaurant of the year, Phil vettel 3 stars, etc etc. Towards the end it was just me, the chef/owner & a dishwasher. Still churning out good food but the crowds & $ were gone because bad location + bad economy. Chef & I were drunk every night but just hanging on til the bitter end, but still giving good food & service to whoever showed up. This was right when RheineOne day I came in & the door was locked, etc. That fucker still owes me a few hundred dollars. At least this guy's wife will be able to collect when he finally throws in the towel.