Salerno, Italy, is a true example of an undiscovered gem. Yes, an overused phrase, but it applies here in the respect that it’s not like travelers haven’t
heard of this micro-city of 140,000—they just have had no reason to visit there.
But Salerno’s strategic location makes it a great transportation hub—45 minutes by bus to Amalfi, an hour by train to Pompei, less than that to Naples—and thus is a phenomenal base for daytrip travel.
So, we took our little excursions by day, but would return to the great, homey Salerno Centro B&B each night, and would venture down the rabbit-warren streets in search of southern Italian cuisine, which is certainly more seafood-based than the northern regions.
The house fish at Angolo Masuccio, a tiny joint in Salerno’s Old Town, was called ‘scombro’, apparently from the mackerel family. Lightly breaded & pan-fried, served with mint-laced yogurt on the side, it almost seemed more Greek than Italian. Crunchy, fresh, fishy goodness.
This pizza Margherita was from Pizzeria Trianon behind our B&B in Salerno. The original Trianon opened in 1923 in Naples, so I assumed these guys knew their craft. Four Euro for this masterpiece of soft, chewy crust, tomatoes, basil & fresh bufala mozzarella.
We took a cooking class at the B&B owner’s apartment in Salerno. Lina Manzo did most of the work, I did most of the watching, and then eating. Here’s another fish I’ve never heard of—‘cocho’ (and I asked three times), which looked like some mondo sardine. They were cleaned, then placed in the sauce for flavor, finally served as a secondi after the pasta course of homemade tagliatelle with clams, mussels, and more broth than gravy. Incredible taste.
Fried anchovies at Lido Azzurro in Amalfi on a warm, idyllic winter afternoon. Angolo MasuccioVia Masuccio Salernitano 45, 84121 Salerno, Italy
+39 333 6953085
Salerno Centro Bed & BreakfastPiazza Sedile di Portanova 10, 84121 Salerno, Italy
+39 345 617 7759
Lido AzzurroLungomare dei Cavalieri 5, 84011 Amalfi, Italy
+39 (0)89 871384
Last edited by
jnm123 on April 1st, 2015, 7:44 am, edited 1 time in total.