Bordeaux

Any recommendations for reasonably prices places to eat in Bordeaux? Two friends are going there for a few days, and I wanted to give them some ideas.

I don't know if you need to be a NY Times subscriber to access this, but here is a delightful description of Bordeaux (including restaurant advice) from R.W. Apple:
http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?sec=travel&res=980CE0DC1F30F937A15752C1A9649C8B63

Thanks.
That is exactly the sort of thing I was looking for.

One word: canard.

Bordeaux is a major foie gras producing region (they feed them the grape must among other things), and so produces a lot of duck products.

I'm not much of a liver fan, but we had some fantastic duck meals when we were down there. There's a lot of seafood down there too, I remember seeing coquilles (scallops) on a lot of menus.

We ate at both La Tupina and Jean Ramet when we were there (2 years ago maybe?). Both are listed in article linked to above. Anyway, both were very good. La Tupina is where you go for huge hunks of meat grilled over an open flame, Jean Ramet is very classical fine French dining, but not stuffy. I liked Tupina better, my husband Ramet - go figure

Make reservations if you go to these.

Bordeaux is not a good restaurant city compared to other cities of its general size in France. If you want great food in SW France, go to Toulouse instead.

But food is not the reason people travel to Bordeaux! And for that reason, the best restaurants in the greater Bordeaux area are where the tourists are, in the famous wine-growing districts.

So with that in mind, I'd recommend the restaurants at Chateau Cordeillan-Bages in Pauillac and Hostellerie de Plaisance in St. Emilion, as well as Claude Darroze in Langon (in the Sauternes region).

The first two are a bit touristy due to the fame of their owners (Jean-Michel Cazes and Gerard Perse respectively), the third is off the beaten path but is probably the best of the bunch.

I can personally vouch for the food at Hotel Grand Barrail Chateau and Spa, about a mile outside of St. Emillion (a don't miss city, by the way). It's an old chateau, in the midst of vineyards, with excellent French contemporary cuisine. (It was a few years ago - don't ask me what I had).

Well, if you want to eat in St. Emilion, go to L'Envers du Decor (11 Rue de Clocher) - great fun brasserie/bistro. Mostly locals, and good stuff. Not sure if they take reservations, it fills up. We sat at the bar and got to meet the business manager who took us on a tour of Ch. Soutard the next day.

phone (33-5) 57.74.48.31; fax (33-5) 57.24.68.90,

One of my best pals is a wine guy in Bordeaux, he's also a former writer for Gault et Millau. I asked him to read this thread, and pls comment. Which he graciously did. Here are his comments. I trust his advice totally.

Geo
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As to the restaurant scene in Bordeaux, I would agree with just about everyone’s comments on the chat board you attached with two exceptions: Grand Barrail in Saint Emilion is too far outside the village to be within walking distance and the food’s been going downhill ever since the chef left, the one who’s now in charge of the Hostellerie de Plaisance, actually in the town of St. Emilion. The place to which you refer is indeed the Envers du Décor. The food is nothing fancy but you can eat, weather permitting, in the interior courtyard and the wine list is progressive with interesting wines from all over France. The owner, François des Ligneris, used to be the owner of Ch. Soutard but his family sold it about two months ago. That’s why he showed one of the “chatters” Soutard after he’d enjoyed a meal at the Envers. Hostellerie de Plaisance is the best restaurant on the Right Bank although the St. James in Bouliac above the Garonne River with striking views of Bordeaux, is making something of a comeback.

La Tupiña seems to be a favorite of many Americans perhaps because so many of them seem to equate the size of the dish with its quality. And if they’re stuffed to the gills when they leave a restaurant, it MUST have been good. It IS good, classical rotisserie fare, my favorite is the 7-hour lamb. For foie gras and frites lovers, it is also very good. The wine list, however, has always struck me as unexciting and over-priced.

For a great wine list, an interesting décor 15th century vaulted cellar in the old part of the city, I like Les Jardins d’Ausone, owned by wine merchant, Laurent Vialatte. The food is very good but far lighter than the fare at La Tupiña! It’s the only place in Bordeaux – or possibly France – where you can drink great German Rieslings from the 1970’s and 1980’s! And that for around $50.00, tax and tip included (the two of which represent nearly 33% of the check amount).

I think Cordeillan-Bages is over-rated and it is also an hour-plus drive up to Pauillac from Bordeaux. Lots of wine people like the Lion d’Or in Arcins, probably because they can bring their own wine and are actually encouraged to do so (the wine list is boring). The fare is similar in inspiration to La Tupiña. The chef is loud and vociferous giving the place some character!

For good pizza, there are two places: the very “hip” Chez Peppone. Good food, good ingredients and a better than average (for France) Italian wine list. For better pizza at lower prices, there’s also Jacomo in the old part of the city. Very thin crust, flavorful pizzas for people who appreciate pizza not bread. The owner, Bernadette, is a gregarious, foul-mouthed but funny, hostess. Not for those without a sense of humor.

There is also a place just across the river with fantastic views of the city riverfront, one of the prettiest in France, that serves decent seafood and has a decent wine list. It’s called L’Estoquade.

Finally, there is the restaurant called Gravelier, which is owned by the daughter of one of the Troisgros brothers (*** Michelin restaurant in Roanne) and her husband whose family name is . . . Gravelier. Fairly priced, well-executed food with a short, but good, wine list.

P.S. Darroze in Langon is good but not probably worth the 45’ drive unless one has other reasons to be in the southern Graves and Sauternes region.

Any updated information on Bordeaux?

We will be attending a friend's wedding this summer about 130km SE of Bordeaux. After spending some time in Paris, we are taking the train down to Bordeaux, where we will probably spend a night or 2 and end up renting a car to get to the chateau for the wedding and exploring the area before heading down to Barcelona to spend some time and fly home. Paris and Barcelona are easy, it's been a little tough finding good (current) info on Bordeaux.

Thanks!

I'm going mid May so we'll get this updated, à votre santé!

I suspect my buddy's recommendations will still hold--things don't change very fast on the resto scene in Bordeaux, altho' every year's a new vintage for the wine.

I'll check to see what he has to say now.

Geo