Thanks for posting this, Cathy. I saved it to read carefully later this evening.
Glancing through, I didn't see a mention of my favorite American food writer, A. J. Liebling, but then he didn't dedicate his career to food writing. (But then, neither has "the odious" Elizabeth Gilbert.) I also don't see a mention of my other favorite, a prolific food writer, Jeffrey Steingarten, whose style of writing doesn't seem to me to fit the premise --one might say, the straw man -- of the essay.
The title is yet another example of something that has become a pet peeve for me: I wish food writers and their editors would
stop plagiarizing David Foster Wallace and "consider the" option of coming up with their own original ways to title their essays. Talk about writing inside someone else's chalk outline. Maybe the title was a conscious, tongue-in-cheek choice. But I doubt it.
I believe quite strongly,
de mortuis nihil nisi bonum, but the essay itself is food for thought and discussion, possibly in a different thread.
"Your swimming suit matches your eyes, you hold your nose before diving, loving you has made me bananas!"