I had dinner last night at Cocello and came away very impressed. First, I've had some less than stellar front of house/management/service experiences in the past few weeks that have left me wondering whether that's perhaps a new norm. But I'm happy to report that service at Cocello was fantastic from the moment we walked in to the moment we left -- friendly and efficient front of house, a great waiter, timely service.
As for the food, it too was excellent. I've had the egg yolk raviolo at countless restaurants, but I can't recall one done as perfectly as at Cocello. Every single element was perfect, including the nutty browned butter and the oozing yolk. In an age where so many chefs move on from a dish before they've perfected it, it's nice to see an almost perfectly concepted dish also be executed flawlessly.
Though nothing rose to the heights of the egg yolk raviolo, everything else was at least very good if not excellent. The house made bread was delicious, with a terrific crust and I loved the combination of fennel and sourdough. Linguine with clams offered both perfectly al dente pasta and just the right mix of sea and garlic. Roast chicken was moist without feeling overworked and had a terrific crisped skin. I thought the cacio e pepe was delicious might have been a touch light on pepper for my taste, but I only had a bite so I'm not quite sure.
My lone complaint perhaps is that this is one of those menus where you can't necessarily separate appetizers from entrees, and our waiter had to help us through this a bit (basically, letting us know when we ordered something that seemed to be an entree that it was not). I guess I could also complain that it's no longer my beloved Dillman's, but the food helped me move on a lot faster. Overall though, a fantastic meal and I can't wait to return to try more.