Surprised to see Stanley’s Tavern, an old Back of the Yards institution since 1935, never surfaced on LTH before. Or really any publicity, save for a great Mike Sula history/review in early 2008 (
http://www.chicagoreader.com/chicago/wa ... id=1212870). But it’s no wonder that the place remains off of people's radars—there is no website, phone book entry, or even a sign outside the bar. Interestingly enough, though, you should have every idea what to expect when you walk in.
That is a smile, a point to the hand-scrawled menu (which on my visit consisted of the main dish: smoked butt with cabbage, potatoes, and beets, and two soups: chicken and dumpling, and beef barley), an encouraging word/drink order taken from the man behind the bar, and a comfortable seat either at the bar, or at one of four tables in the place. Peering back you can see into the kitchen—it reminds you of home, and home is more than a theme here. In fact, Grandma’s house is simply the only way to describe the place. The smoked butt will never blow anyone out of the water—six slices of meaty ham, boiled potatoes hovering over a little pool of butter, a giant half of a cabbage and a bread basket could have been pedestrian. But between the horseradish on the side, the toothsome cabbage and the buttery potatoes, this is old fashioned cooking taken to its most time-tested and perfected execution. Filbert’s sasparilla-like root beer is the perfect foil, and comes from just a few blocks away.
After I asked the bartender whether there was a set schedule for what dishes were offered on certain weekdays, I got the reply: “Wanda cooks whatever Wanda feels like that day. Sometimes it’s breaded chicken, sometimes it’s prime rib. But you should come back for the breaded chicken—when we serve that, people line up.”
And sooner or later, out came Wanda, wandering in from the kitchen. She stood at our table and jested about college, following your passion, and what being a brainiac actually means. Wanda’s fiery sense of humor was endlessly charming, and she promised us that if we called the Wednesday before we would come, that the Thursday dish would be breaded chicken, just for us. Her niece piped in that Friday the dish would be fried perch. I said, “That makes sense, fish Friday.” She replied, “Nope, just what Wanda felt like making.
Unfortunately, this review serves as a little Save This Restaurant call as well—the bartender encouraged us numerous times to spread the word, as business is “getting a little slow,” and after we were handed numerous pens celebrating Stanley’s 75th anniversary to give out to our friends, I think their message was made clear.
I think it was a recent review of Girl and the Goat that said the food perfectly pays tribute to Chicago within its dishes. Well quietly, Stanley’s has been and is doing the same, within its dish, singular. Large servings of hearty vegetables and pork (whose source may well be a meat warehouse a few blocks away) with a Filbert's root beer and Vitner's potato chips can't do more to epitomize Chicago and Back of the Yards- not to mention Wanda's been doing local well before it was hip. And between the portions (pounds of food) to the genuine familial interactions between the bartender, owner, waitress and diners, Stanley’s will remind you a thousand times of the way things were (and still are, for many people) around Chicago, at your grandparents’ house. In these times, great comfort food and conversation is well worth the $6 price of the daily main dish.
Wanda should be expecting a call from me requesting the breaded chicken. At a place where everything but the main dish is predictable, Wanda’s even willing to change that to make a customer happy. And I can’t help but believe that everyone walks out happy from Stanley’s.
Stanley’s Tavern
4258 S. Ashland Ave.
Chicago, IL 60609
773-927-0033