Balthazar - Soho Brasserie - New York

SoHo on the Seine New York Entry #31

What makes New York the only truly global city in the United States is its ability to contain the best of the world's culture on its streets and avenues. Many cities - Chicago, San Francisco, Philadelphia, Miami, once-and-perhaps-again New Orleans have worthy restaurants, but only New York has the range of restaurants that if they are not quite truly transplants, at least can pass for authentic if one is a gentle critic.

Balthazar in Soho is a adequately faithful rendition of a fin de siecle Parisian brasserie (the distinction between a brasserie and a bistro is perhaps most evident in that Steak Frites is the signature dish at the former and a bar is much in evidence. The brasserie is a bistro with balls).

Balthazar is not demure or restrained. Bustling is a fitting adjective. Loud is another. The food lacks subtlety, but makes up for this absence with robust charisma.

As a starter I selected Grilled Sardines with Roasted Eggplant, Arugula, and Basil. It was everything that might be wished. I particularly enjoyed the smoky grilled fish. If not delicate, it was as boisterous as Balthazar itself. The flavorful, pungent eggplant salad matched the sardine bite for bite.

My entree was Roasted Monkfish, Apple Smoked Bacon, Creamed Leeks, and Bordelaise Sauce. The combination of bacon and leeks merged two heavily marked tastes with a hearty monkfish. In such company the Bordelaise Sauce was a good match, not overpowering the other ingredients.

As dessert, I selected the tarte du jour: Fig-Raspberry Galette with Frangipane and a scoop of Toasted Almond Ice Cream. The galette was a disappointingly tough pasty sheet, but the fruit, almond cream, and almond ice cream were a soothing ending to a meal that succeeds in its terms, encouraging for a moment the fantasy that one was dining in SoHo on the Seine.

Balthazar
80 Spring Street (at Broadway)
Manhattan (SoHo)
212-965-1414

http://www.vealcheeks.blogspot.com

good times... i've had a few obscenely priced brunches here. still have their postcard somewhere....

after Balthazar, i like to stop by Eileen's for cheescake:
Eileen's Cheesecake
17 Cleveland Pl
New York 10012
At Kenmare & Centre St
T: 212-966-5585

then walk over to
Dean & Deluca, order some nondescript coffee, eat the cheesecakes while watching shoppers zoom by...

My mom and I ate at Balthazar's the first night of a trip we took to NYC two years ago. The food was good, although IMHO not any better than La Sardine, but the setting, the hustle and bustle, and the fact that we were there after midnight made it fabulous. I would absolutely go back there for another late night dinner.

I wish there were more good restaurants open so late here in Chicago. Thank goodness for Avec!

geli wrote:My mom and I ate at Balthazar's the first night of a trip we took to NYC two years ago. The food was good, although IMHO not any better than La Sardine, but the setting, the hustle and bustle, and the fact that we were there after midnight made it fabulous. I would absolutely go back there for another late night dinner.

I wish there were more good restaurants open so late here in Chicago. Thank goodness for Avec!

I've never been to Balthazar for dinner, but a few times for breakfast. Besides just stellar baked goods, that room (even when mostly empty) was amazing. I really enjoy the place. Also, when I went (and this may not be the case any more) Balthazar was near impossible to get into for dinner (being a non-model ); yet, at breakfast they treated us like the biggest big time Balthazar customers. I've always had a soft spot since for this place.

BTW, their cookbook is gorgeous!

Vital Information wrote:
I've never been to Balthazar for dinner, but a few times for breakfast. Besides just stellar baked goods, that room (even when mostly empty) was amazing. I really enjoy the place. .

BTW, their cookbook is gorgeous!

Vital,
I second this assessment. Trix and I went there for a martini after dining at Lombardi's nearby. We couldn't resist having a second lunch at the bar. From what I remember, we split a warm sliced leg of lamb sandwich with caramelized onions, arugula, a mild harissa, and served toasted on some of the most wonderful bread I have ever tried.

The bartender that served us was warm AND professional, which is, from my experience a rarity anywhere.

You're totally right about their cookbook, too. If you don't have it and love to attempt French bistro-style cooking, get it. It has some wonderful versions of classic bistro recipes.

I remember leaving Balthazar that fall Friday afternoon buzzing from excitement (and gin).