Prettiest Plate in the Village: Vegetable Pavè, Little Gem CaféUsed to be, the life of the vegetarian was a hard lot indeed. A few decades ago, if you asked about vegetable-only options, you’d maybe get just pasta with vegetables on top, something ladled with gloppy cheese, or sometimes just a blank stare. During brief periods of my life when I flirted with vegetarianism, I was discouraged in part because sticking to a vegetables-only diet was tough if you like to eat out, and I always have.
Needless to say, over the past few decades, options have significantly expanded to satisfy increasing numbers of vegetarians and even vegans.
I try to stick to lighter dishes for breakfast and lunch (knowing that I’ll usually be chowing down big time at dinner). For a recent lunch at Little Gem Café, although I fantasized about the Gem Burger (a hamburger is usually always what I want), I ordered the Vegetable Pavè. I was very glad I did.
A “pavè” – French for paving stone – is (as you probably know) usually a square or rectangular piece of something.
The Vegetable Pavè at Little Gem Café is six or seven layers of vegetables, topped with crispy leeks and surrounded by a moat of a cauliflower puree (containing just a little butter and cream – which is probably the only reason this dish is not fully vegan).
A truism is that we eat with the eyes, and this multi-leveled vegetable tart in creamy sauce was definitely the prettiest plate I can remember enjoying in the village.
Little Gem Café, if you haven’t been there, conveys a sense sophistication that you wouldn’t find at some of my other favorite lunch places in Oak Park, including Luo’s Peking and Jerusalem Café.
The Vegetable Pavè is listed at $13, and for that price you could get lunch for two at either those local Chinese and Middle Eastern places, but the price does not seem out of range considering the thought and care that goes into preparing this dish.
If I had one criticism, it’d be that the vegetables (particularly the carrots) were a little undercooked, making it more difficult than it should have been to cut through the layers of vegetables, but it’s much better to undercook than to overcook vegetables.
This dish is rather simply spiced, but that’s not a negative criticism because a lot of French or French-inspired dishes tend to dial down the seasoning, the better to allow the natural goodness of the flavors to shine through.
In line with the “eating-with-the-eyes” idea, the Vegetable Pave from Little Gem Café, though it’s not a huge amount of food, is hugely satisfying, in part because it’s visually interesting. I didn’t eat a lot for lunch that day but I didn’t feel like I wanted to eat more food; I was satisfied.
The only regret I have about ordering this dish is that I didn’t get a glass of white wine with it (it was lunch, after all), because a dish this good – and good looking – deserves a good pairing.
"Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins