Don't panic!
This talk of Delicatessen Meyer has reminded me of something I've known about for a couple of weeks, and meant to look into further, but it just hasn't happened; maybe an actual journalist would like to delve into this one. Anyway, if you've been to Paulina Market since their winter break a month or so ago, you know that they expanded, turning some of the back work area into more floor space, and installing more cases of various kinds of goods.
Well, the reason all this has happened is that it has new owners. Paulina is the one old German business in the area that, in the 80s and early 90s, successfully escaped the ethnic-business-for-one-ethnic-group trap and became an all-purpose quality meat market while still retaining the wide range of German items which it had always made, and now they seem to be making another transition, adding a wider range of yuppie goodies to compete with the likes of Whole Foods while retaining the meat quality and variety which, frankly, has no competition in the immediate area and little genuine competition anywhere in the city. So far there seems to be no sign that they've reduced or eliminated anything about the old Paulina, only added more items to increase the range of things you can get there. (As far as personnel goes, most of the faces seem the same, though it looks like maybe a couple of them retired and a couple new folks have been hired.)
So while any change is potentially worrisome, no change in the face of neighborhood change is the real danger, and it appears that the new owners of Paulina are intelligently figuring out how to expand its appeal without losing the things that have made the essential meat market in Chicago for serious cooks-- or just people who know there
has to be something better than Oscar Mayer bologna out there.
Paulina Market
3501 N Lincoln Ave
Chicago, IL 60657-1103
(773) 248-6272
http://www.paulinameatmarket.com/