So where are we, Wednesday? Yup, that looks right.
With all the recommendations from here, we wanted to try the Pig's Ear. I stopped in around lunch to find out if they had table for two available early evening, and they said they were booked solid, but that a walk-in might be possible. So we ate light for lunch (easy to do with the full Irish breakfast buffet), and stopped back in at 5:30 when they opened. They said we could have a table if we could be out before 7. We eat pretty quick, so that wasn't a problem.
The Pig's Ear is one of the few places we were at that provided bread service that wasn't just what's put on the main course plate. Some very good brown and white bread here, fresh butter. Sue started with a Pork Terrine with white beans, nice. I had a fried egg with black pudding and greens that didn't photograph -- the egg got a little well done, but otherwise delicious. I had a very nice piece of hake, very crisp skin, over mash and carrots; Sue had a very tender, melting pork belly. We ordered a side of duck fat potatoes, which were probably rather unneccessary given the starch load we'd been eating. Dessert was a "Brown Bread Ice Cream with Pecan Nuts & Crumbled Guinness Cake" -- very Milk Bar inspired, and probably my favorite dessert of the trip. The pecans were in sort of a foamed brittle or toffee, the brown bread crumbs in the ice cream added a lot of flavor.
The Pig's Ear4 Nassau St, Dublin, Co. Dublin City, Ireland
Phone:+353 1 670 3865
http://www.thepigsear.com/
Pig's Ear Bread
Pig's Ear Terrine
Pig's Ear Egg and Pudding
Pig's Ear Hake
Pig's Ear Pork Belly
Pig's Ear Potatoes
Pig's Ear Dessert The next night we were taken out by my company's account manager, to Farm, which has two branches, one of which was just around the corner from the conference hotel. Everything organic, farm-to-table. The table (seven of us) had a few starters, including some very good buffalo wings with local Cashel blue cheese sauce, duck spring rolls, and charcuterie, but Sue and I did not choose wisely regarding mains. We'd been hearing about the quality of Irish beef for days, and the burger (with smoked grubbeen cheese, Irish bacon, caramelized onions) sounded really good. We were warned that they couldn't do medium rare, but it came rather well done -- if you've got to do well done, do it with thin griddled patties, please, not a thick pub burger that ends up dry. I liked everything else about it though, except the patty. No pics except another excellent cider, this one very crisp and dry, with a higher alcohol content (7%). Oh, and another bread and butter pudding: this one was crisped top and bottom, adding nice toasty flavors, but making it a bit less, well, pudding-y.
Farm133 Upper Leeson Street, Dublin 4
Phone: 01 212 0743
http://www.thefarmfood.ie/
Farm Suffolk CiderFriday night, we were winging it as we usually do, and dangerously so since Irish don't eat as late as other nations. The first few places we checked were booked solid. We walked into a place we'd spotted previously as having interesting-sounding food, called KC Peaches Wine Cave. It turns out KC Peaches is a deli-like counter-order chain, but this one has a downstairs "wine cave" that has full service, live music, and a very enjoyable meal. They've got an emphasis on natural, local food (as did much of Dublin's restaurants), and definitely went beyond their humble deli facade, with great flavors and nice presentations. Their early-bird deal was four small plates and two glasses of wine for 37€, and the wine was from a choice of several (we both had the grenache). Our plates were a crawfish and chorizo pasta, a rather nicely spicy sauteed Dublin Bay Brown Prawns, goat cheese-stuffed figs, wild mushrooom crostini, and we added a green salad that was mostly sauteed veg. The live music was a guitar-and-vocals duo that did very nice covers of 60's classics (Moondance, Look of Love, Let's Stay Together, etc.). It's not destination dining, but if you find yourself near Trinity College and can't get into The Pig's Ear, it's a nice night out.
KC Peaches Wine Cave29 Nassau St
Dublin 2
Phone: +353 1 633 6872
http://kcpeaches.com/
KC Peaches Fettucine
KC Peaches Prawns
KC Peaches Figs
KC Peaches Crostini
KC Peaches SaladOur last day, we went out of town to Malahide, with the original intent of staying there late enough for dinner, but with the cold and damp, and none of the local places sounding all that interesting, we came back to Dublin with no reservations again, and were able to squeeze into Fade St. Social -- again, they were clear they had a limited window for a table in the GastroBar part of the place (2 hours), but it was no problem. Fade St. is the latest outlet from Dylan McGrath, who got a Michelin star at Mint (which is no longer open). Outstanding small plates, although a little random on price/size ratios -- a 4-Euro dish might be a lot more food than a 9-Euro one. There's also a more straighforward restaurant section, I don't know what that menu is like.
We ordered six dishes which turned out to be just about right. I started with another cider, a Bulmer's Pear. The dishes were a sliced duck breast with a duck leg confit spring roll; soft-boiled duck egg with grilled leeks and parmesan (ooh, nice); baby crab toasties with melted cheese, duck egg hollandaise, skinny fries and truffle mayonnaise (better than any shrimp toast, and the fries made nice soldiers for the egg shell filed with truffle mayo); chinese pork belly, slow cooked with
Asian spices and crispy peanut brittle; and salted popcorn with crispy free-range chicken cooked in tapioca flour, rolled
in sumac with truffle butter (this was more of popcorn with cracklin's -- very nice but we'd thought there might be a bit more chicken, but probably not at that price -- no pic).
Fade St. Social6 Fade St, Dublin 2, Ireland
Phone:+353 1 604 0066
http://www.fadestreetsocial.com/
Fade St Cider
Fade St Duck Egg and Leeks
Fade St Crab Toasties
Fade St Duck
Fade St Pork Belly
Fade St CocoaLastly, Saturday morning they have a gourmet market in Meeting House Square where we picked up some cheese and bread for the plane. Great quality stuff there, a good place for lunch with curries, soups, kebabs, etc., plus fresh cider (labeled for making hard cider), salsas and as everywhere, really nice people.
To sum up: Great eatin' town, very walkable (I managed to walk enough to keep from gaining any weight, even with the hefty breakfasts and many heavy dinners), very friendly people, and nice siteseeing. Keep Dublin on your list, even if you, like me, don't care to drink Guinness all night.
What is patriotism, but the love of good things we ate in our childhood?
-- Lin Yutang