Agreed. See my late edit above. In my experience, your best bet for good old-fashioned Italian American is in a second-tier city with some longstanding red sauce institutions that are not as sensitive to competition and changing tastes and can put out a plate of pasta with red sauce without either hipster irony or a Wal-Mart mentality that requires bottomless salad bowls and breadsticks or covering everything with "Alfredo" sauce and chicken tenders. Pittsburgh, for instance, in my own travels.
Great point, Jeff. I am sure a LOT of these old-school joints in the Northeast are slowly biting the dust, but when our kids were young and we would make the annual drive to see family in Boston, I would make it a point to seek out these little gems. And it wasn't easy--we didn't have immediate LTH or iPhone Y--p reviews either--I had to go to the library in advance and read Fodor's or Zagat or something similar to get a heads-up.
I remember visiting friends of my folks in Jersey Shore, PA and them taking us to the 'Italian Club', called the Columbia. OMG. Thin-crust anchovy pizza. Escarole soup. And maybe the best eggplant parm I've even eaten.
On another trip, on the way back to Chicago, having to stop
somewhere after a 600 mile drive & just wanting a good meal, if only to shut the kids up. Just outside Cleveland, the motel clerk pointed us to a ramshackle place called Dino's II and this time, it was the homemade wedding soup with tiny veal meatballs that did it. Just wow. Made the trip.
Remember, this was 20 years ago so I can't reallly vouch for it now. But if all is right with the world, it's still good.
Dino's II
15518 Saint Clair Ave,
Cleveland, OH 44110-3064
216-486-1611