I see it's been a while since anyone posted about North Pond, so here goes. We ate there Sunday night, and our dinner was absolutely OUTSTANDING. It's the best restaurant dinner I've had in 2014, and I'm sure it will end up among my best of the year.
Of course, one attraction of North Pond is its exquisite setting in the park, facing the pond. We had requested seating in the front room, with the big windows facing the pond; apparently so did everyone else, as that's where everyone was, with no one in the rear room with the open kitchen. I just hope their business improves as the weather warms up, as Chef Bruce Sherman is working wonders there.
Still, it was the food that made this dinner so amazing, so I'll talk about that. (Sorry, no photos.) One of the unusual aspects of Sherman's food is that the dishes are plated with the main ingredients pretty much separate. So when a dish is described on the menu as, for example, "Grassfed Beef, Mushroom: New York Striploin Medallions, Short Rib; Beech Mushrooms, Confit Potatoes, Mushroom “Pudding”, Marrow, Pistachios", those are not ingredients mixed together in a single item, but rather, you'll find each of them in a separate place on the plate. As a result, what you're likely to find is that each plate is its own little "tasting menu", with lots of things to try, and odds are high you'll love many and maybe even all of them.
Standouts at this dinner - actually, everything I tried was a standout - included:
"Foie Gras, Ginger: Seared Foie Gras, Gingerbread, Earl Grey Tea Sorbet, Kumquats, Blood Orange, Hazelnuts, Frisée". Just a wonderful rendition. Also praiseworthy because the foie gras portion size was quite generous even though it was only $3 more than some of the other appetizers.
"Beet, Pastrami: Candied Red, Gold and Chioggia Beets; Smoked Pastrami, Sour Cream Panna Cotta, Rye Crumble, Quail Egg, Beet Greens". I loved the juxtapostion of such different textures in this dish. The pastrami was actually rather mild.
"Leek, Apple: Warm Apple-Potato Vichyssoise Soup, Charred Leeks, Mussels, Toasted Pumpernickel, Green Apple Boules". A terrific soup. Interesting to have a warm vichyssoise. And I loved the way the leeks and mussels were floating in the soup.
"Grassfed Beef, Mushroom: New York Striploin Medallions, Short Rib; Beech Mushrooms, Confit Potatoes, Mushroom “Pudding”, Marrow, Pistachios". I
love short ribs, and this was one of the best short rib preparations I've ever had. It was all meat, no fat, yet amazingly moist and tender. It was covered with a red wine reduction that is one of the thickest, most concentrated reductions I've ever had. The other items on the plate were all very good as well, but oh, those short ribs! Wow!
The desserts, from pastry chef Greg Mosko, deserve special recognition. These were two of the best, most creative desserts I've had in a long, long time. A lot of desserts are delicious but not unusual, or unusual but not that amazingly delicious, but these were wow-worthy!
"Chestnut, Orange: Chestnut Mousse, Ginger Cake, Orange Segments, Blood Orange Sorbet, Chickory Glaze, Sage". Wonderful. Not mentioned in the ingredients listed - the black pepper meringue pieces surrounding it.
"Coconut, Milk". I'm not sure of the official description of this one because it's the one dish that isn't on their website menu, so let me describe it. In the center was a disk-shaped toasted coconut cake that was very nice. (And since the coconut was toasted, it didn't have the raw coconut chewiness that can be unpleasant.) It was topped with dabs of milk chocolate crémeux. In the center was a small scoop of sorbet whose flavor escapes my memory. There were three thin chocolate tuiles standing up around the sorbet. There was white chocolate powdery crumbs around the cake. And the plate was spread with a yummy ancho cream, which was only slightly spicy but also rather caramel-y in taste. I loved, loved, LOVED this dessert. Bravo, Chef Mosko!
Also worth noting... I had the strongest iced tea I have ever had in my life, and I loved it! I asked about it, and they said it's a black tea from Intelligentsia. Service was excellent - efficient and friendly, yet unobtrusive. Oh, and the bill, including moderate alcohol and tax/tip, was just under $100/pp, which I would consider a bargain for such a special restaurant with such delicious food.
Since this discussion was last active, North Pond was awarded a star from the Michelin Guide.
With new trendy restaurants opening up every week and getting all the attention, it's still worthwhile to stay aware of the places that have been around for a while. Their food may be every bit as good, even though they aren't receiving much media attention any more. North Pond is a perfect example. And even though the setting in the park may be our most common association with the restaurant, the food should not be forgotten. This dinner was thoroughly outstanding in every way. Thank you, Chef Sherman and North Pond!