Good article. Something pleasantly ironic about a critic from that formerly most Southern city, which most clearly forsook its Southerness to end up as a soulless place (but for the Mexican and Chinese folks saving it) riffing on Chicago's late fascination with fried chicken and pimento cheese - all while correctly recognizing that we have a huge southern facet from the Great Migration that has nothing to do with the Charleston-inspired north side spots. Chicken and biscuits have their merits, same as pad kra prao, Bohemian dumplings, and Detroit pizza.