I had a wonderful meal here in its first days, but hadn't been back since. However, new exec. chef Jim Kilberg happens to be the son of a good friend and she invited us as a birthday treat.
While we got plenty of attention, all of the dishes we ate were off the regular menu, so I'd guess our food experience was pretty close to typical (even if our check probably was not, though I wouldn't know as I didn't see it). They also allowed me to bring a bottle from my "cellar," which, I believe, is generally discouraged.
There were 6 of us, so we got to taste a lot, and frankly, everything was excellent. Plates were lovely, flavors muscular, clear, straightforward and distinct even when lots was going on.
Apps.* Imported bufala mozz. with basil, cherry toms., oil
As basic as it gets. But the mozz. tasted perfectly fresh and delicate; it was delicious. (I've always been a bit dubious about flying in such a delicate fresh product, but they certainly made the case for it here.)
* Fried zuccinin flowers stuffed with Taleggio and basil, with tomato puree:
A but more substantial than the first plate. Good Taleggio, well fried and not oily. The tom. puree was light and a perfect step up from the fresh tomatoes on the first plate.
* Octopus with cherry toms., olives, oreg. and potato
This was terrific. The octopus was sliced almost prosciutto thin and lined the bottom of the plate. Scatterd on top were perfect dice-sized potato cubes, black olives, and halved cherry toms. The dressing was more or less invisible; just a piquant aura hovering around the plate. The combined textures, acid/salt/soft starch/slightly chewy octopus all worked wonderfully together.
* Carpaccio di manzo:
Traditionally done and presented with dabs of aoli and capers. Rich, silky, and luscious.
* A pizza special had fontina, cipollini, chorizo and grapes. I get the grapes in theory,but in practice they didn't have much effect. However, the rest of the pizza was delicious. Great chewy crust with just enough char. Nice spicy sausage.
The bread basket was also excellent with a rich, oily herbed foccaccia and crispy cheese breadsticks.
MainsNone of us are huge eaters, so we only had one additional course and dessert. Because we had a Barolo on the table breathing heavily, four of us were unable to pass up the mixed wild mushroom risotto to go with it, so an opportunity to see what they do with some very attractive seafood items was passed by.
But, the risotto was terrific. Maybe a tad salty for some, but deep rich flavor (some truffle oil in addition to the mushrooms), and really excellent parm. The rice they used is aged carnaroli. I asked what the effect of aging rice was (I had not heard of this before). Jim couldn't tell us specifically; just that is takes a really long time to cook, but works out better than anything else he's tried for texture. (He also said it's incredibly expensive and there is no margin at all on that dish.) Paired with our 1990 Parusso Bussia, it was heaven.
The 2 dishes that were not risotto were the polletto al mattone. It was pronounced wonderful, though I didn't taste it.
I'm not usually a big dessert person, but it was a birthday so, in for a lira, in for a euro---as they say.
We had at least 4 of the desserts and they were all as delicious as they were pretty, which is a rare thing in my experience.
Each plate had probably 4-5 components which I cannot accurately reproduce from memory.
I had the Spugna di caffe (can't vouch for the accuracy of the name). It was coffee-flavored sponge cake in 2 1.5" squares, with a scoop of anise gelato (a flavor I have never liked, yet it was great in this context), and blackberries, with, I think blackberry mousse as well.
Fondente was a warm flourless choc. cake with, I think, espresso gelato and some other items.
Panna cotta was rich and scrumptious.
Crostata was a disk of choc./caramel tart with caraway, then pistachio-cocoa nib gelato, and orange-caramel mousse.
(Obviously, I'm flailing here. It was the end of a long happy evening. Best I can do is say that they were all worthwhile.)
The cheese plate had sheep's milk gorg., taleggio, and I've forgotten the third cheese; accompanies by apple slices, grapes, basil flatbread and walnut bread, with additional walnuts and a smear of bright red something that I didn't get to try (a bit of berry preparation or something??)
All in all an excellent meal full of integrity and skill and first-rate ingredients well used.
"Strange how potent cheap music is."