I came into Chicago today for lunch and to pick up a premier copy of Time Out Chicago. I quickly checked the index and went straight to the food section. I haven't read the food reviews, yet, I did read their lead food article: a review of Chicago restaurant cookbooks.
The Eat and Drinkup staff reviewed Rick and Lanie's Excellent Kitchen Adventures, Tru and The Spiaggia Cookbook. They prepared a dish at home and compared it to the same prepared in the restaurant down to comparison of costs. For Spiaggia, they prepared Agnolotti del plin con polline di finocchio following the instructions and the ingredient list precisely; including fennel pollen at $30 per ounce. Countless hours later, the damage was $17 per serving to prepare yourself as opposed to $19 per serving at the restaurant. The author said as much as her friends appreciated the effort, she acknowledged it wasn't exactly as enjoyed in the restaurant.
I liked comparative reviews of this nature; especially as you are trying to replicate the gold standard from your restaurant experience. In all cases, the cookbook recipes prepared with various levels of experience all fell short of the mark. The Spiaggia author/cook seemed to have the greatest depth of experience. However, she concluded with a statement which stood out for me, "In my quest to follow the recipe to the letter, I forgot how to cook, how to taste, season and taste again."
I bumped into friends this afternoon where one did work for a celebrity chef who wrote a cookbook. In her review of the cookbook, she saw mistakes and diversions from what she knew the restaurant did.
Anyway, I liked the sensible down-to-earth style of how these cookbook reviews were presented. As for the rest of the magazine, I don't know, I read what interested me first.