Time over time, I have people telling me I need to try some sushi place . . . "it's amazing!" A certain place on Chicago Ave comes to mind. I usually try it and leave thinking, yeah, it's okay . . . but who cares. Often, I leave bewildered wondering why nobody cares about the art of sushi - the texture and flavor of the rice, the temperature, the ratio of fish to rice, the size of each piece, etc. Honestly, the overwhelming majority of Chicagoans just don't give a f**k about sushi.
So when I visited Ora Sushi last night, so close to the heart of Andersonville, I was prepared for good neighborhood sushi, but convinced I would laugh off the glowing comments here. I left Ora Sushi very sad, disappointed . . . as if I've wasted the last several years of my life with this precious gem sitting right under my nose, never having visited. And shame on the Chicago food media for allowing this place to fly under the radar. Sure, go ahead and review the same fine dining restaurant several times a year, but allow a Michelin quality sushi restaurant (byo though) to beg for customers.
Yes, this guy gets it - the rice, the nori, everything. Years ago I was scolded by a sushi chef for taking a picture of my hand roll when handed to me. I was told I ruined the perfect bite because the brittle crispness of the nori immediately begins to deteriorate and you have only one to two bites of nirvana. He scolded me in a fatherly way, the way very few chefs would. The way insanely passionate chefs would. So when my dining companion and I were separately handed our hand rolls last night, I wouldn't make the same mistake. And yes, the hand rolls were prepared separately too. He gets it. And not only does he get it, but he's using some spectacular nori. This was one of the best hand rolls I've ever had. Some people would ding a restaurant for serving the same dish to a dining couple separately. But here the customers should be bowing.
The nigiri was similarly spectacular. Each piece was uniquely and deliciously seasoned. No clumped rice, and yet it held together just right. And nigiri is not something you eat in several bites -- you can't! So it's refreshing that Ora is one of those places that doesn't feel the need to serve you an oversized piece of fish that's impossible to handle. And that rice! He was excited to talk about his journey towards perfect rice - understanding the seasons, new rice versus old rice, the differences in moisture, and understanding the differences so that the rice comes out perfect. Yeah, Ora Sushi is for real, and in the back of my head I continue to recall so many wasted sushi meals over the years. What have I done!
Although the omakase (chef's choice, never to be confused with kaiseki) at Ora is typically only available on weekdays (when crowds are thinner) or weekends with plenty of advance notice, we were lucky that the late Friday crowd last night (we arrived just before 9pm) was a little thin and we were allowed to partake. Aside from the nigiri and hand roll, there were some other incredible bites - wonderfully rich mackerel, an oyster tempura with a thin, light and non-greasy crust you experience at oh so few places. There was also the chef's take on a Japanese Oysters Rockefeller that stunned me again. And there was uni . . . and more uni.
Yeah, there's fun maki too. We didn't have any of it and I didn't want any of it . . . but I don't hate it.
Overall, a stunning meal. Truly stunning. And it was the most eye opening meal I've ever had when you compare quality of the meal compared with fanfare the restaurant receives. The one (and only) minor transgression was a piece of unagi which was a little too sweet for my taste and the rice didn't quite hold together here. So, perfect? Maybe not . . . but pretty damn close and utterly fantastic.