Sweet Willie wrote:...but this restaurant was a serious let down.
Boy. Amen to that.
Pros: our server knew the menu, listened to us, and was helpful as we tried to round out our order. Promised she would watch the pacing of the dishes so that everything arrived appropriately. A couple of real knockout dishes.
Cons: once the order was in, the server was gone, reappearing once in the entire time we were there. The “pacing” was just plain bad. Two dishes, long pause, one dish. Pause. Two dishes. Several dishes were just barely mediocre.
the room
the kitchenFriday evening at 5:30. It’s about 95 outside and humid, so it was a pleasure to be inside, though the aesthetic was a little spartan for us. We were seated immediately in the middle of a series of two-tops that recall nothing so much as the tight spacing at Next. Considering that there were still a few four tops open when we left, we would have appreciated more space. It’s always such a joy to squeeze between tables to go to the bathroom or leave the restaurant—not to mention getting to listen to other conversations in stereo. I get the economics. When are owners going to get that a pleasurable experience means more than just great food? Being crammed into that extra two-top doesn’t thrill me or make it a pleasant time.
Our server started out great. We were pleased at how attentive and helpful she was. Only to have her disappear after the order was in. The first of our small plates—the smoked pumpkin came almost immediately, followed very quickly by the tempura elotes.
smoked pumpkin
tempura “elotes”The smoked pumpkin “spread” with paratha was terrific. The smoke was front and center but the combination (with walnuts and pomegranate) overall was absolutely dead on. We both loved it. The tempura elotes, on the other hand, tasted like nothing except ordinary corn fritters. Very good corn fritters but their “elote-ness” was entirely missing and, indeed, needed salt (at the least) and something—anything—to make it stand out. Absolutely ordinary and nearly bland. We saw the mayo (and I think we saw the cheese) because the color stood it; there was no taste of it whatsoever.
burrata with sunchoke conservaThe burrata was also very disappointing—it comes with a “sunchoke conserva” but in our case, at least, we’re talking about ½ teaspoon of conserva with next to no apparent taste. So the course ends up being completely neutral-tasting burrata on sourdough. (The menu also notes “leek ash.” I’d be surprised if that is supposed to taste like much; in our case, anyway, it certainly didn’t.) To top it off, look at the bread in this picture--it was so charred as to be mostly inedible.
I don’t understand how this happens. Everyone is apparently so busy that no one cares. When our server actually made an appearance ten or fifteen minutes later, I explain to her what happened; she very plainly doesn’t care. Oh, her mouth says the right things but her face and attitude and tone speak volumes.
In the event, it took an astonishingly long time as I looked everywhere, trying to find someone to bring me some unburnt bread. I would have settled for anyone, a server, a runner, a manager. It took an unconscionably long time to flag someone down. Eventually, someone took pity on me and another five minutes later we got some new bread.
scallopsOur two “larger” dishes: the scallops and the lamb “kabob.” The scallops were very good, enjoyable, and overpriced at $18 for two one-inch scallops. The lamb was among the best lamb I’ve ever had and a dish that lives up to Zimmerman’s high-end street food concept. With the labneh and tomato, it was like a high-end gyro. I thought that, if anything, though, the lamb was overseasoned: simply way too much going on. That said, it just oozed flavor and juiciness and tenderness. Not a kabob—more like two narrow slices of lamb pie, but superb lamb.
lamb “kabob”I would be remiss not to note that they have a tiny menu of non-alcoholic drinks. Three, to be precise. We had two of them and both of them were absolutely excellent. Among the best we’ve had in Chicago, anywhere. It’s so nice to see them, we just wish there had been more. They should really be showcased. When it’s 95 degrees, I don’t feel like alcohol, and it was wonderful to discover a place that has clearly given serious attention and thought to non-alcoholic drinks.
All things reconsidered, we don’t see a return trip. Just too many negatives involving both service and food.
Gypsy Boy
"I am not a glutton--I am an explorer of food." (Erma Bombeck)