Gary, thanks for linking to the previous discussion of
moras and
moritas. As I said about halfway down in that thread, there seems to be variation (perhaps regional, perhaps among individual speakers) in how the diminutive
morita is used. LAZ's English-language links (one of which is plagiarizing from another in typical internet fashion) state unequivocally that the idea that a
morita is a smoked
serrano is
wrong. That position is naive and itself wrong.
What is clear is that there are two different types of dried
jalapeños, one tobacco-colored (and typically larger), which is called
meco, and the other blackberry-colored (and typically smaller), which is called
mora (literally 'blackberry'). The difference in color is clearly the most important factor, because there are also chiles called
mora grande.
So the question is, what kind of chile does the diminutive of
mora,
morita, designate?
In some places, or in the speech of some speakers,
morita seems to be the same type of chile as a
mora, just a small one. For example, Nancy Zaslavsky, in
A Cook's Tour of Mexico, says that the
chiles moras made from the season's last picking are called
moritas. In the thread Gary linked to Joel F quotes Bayless as giving
morita as an alternate name for
mora. This is the usage that the sites linked by LAZ think is the only correct one. And obviously, using the diminutive to refer to small
moras makes sense.
On the other hand, it also makes sense that the diminutive could be used for a
different chile, smaller than the
chile mora but similar in its treatment (that is, smoke-dried). Diana Kennedy, in
My Mexico, follows this practice when she asserts that
moritas are a separate chile from
moras. Moreover, the chiles which I received from the Maxwell Street chile vendor and wrote about in the linked thread are clearly smoked
serranos. I think anyone who looks at the photo in my post (
link) will agree that it is a
serrano shape and not a
jalapeño. David Hammond's post above, where he reports that the Maxwell St. guy calls the
morita a 'brother' of the
chipotle seems to imply that they are different chiles, too.
A further interesting thing to note is that there is also a
morita grande. This combination of words only makes sense if
morita (in some places, for some speakers) refers to a distinct chile and is not just a small
mora.
It seems clear that both usages are legitimate, and that the strong position represented in the links LAZ gives above is simply incorrect. (Also incorrect is the claim found in those sites that the
mora/morita is inferior and less smoky. In the old, linked, thread Joel F quotes Bayless as saying that the flavors of the
meco are less deep than those of the
mora/morita, and certainly the
moritas at Maxwell Street are excellent and exceptionally smoky.)
Once again, I encourage anyone interested in these or other unusual chiles to seek out the vendor at Maxwell Street Market. David, thanks for the update on his current location.
Amata