i started going to al's on taylor in the early 60's, when there was an italian neighborhood and no circle campus. my father or older brother would take me as i didn't drive yet. @ that time, it was a counter on the other side where the prep is now done. the giardinera was in containers on the counter that you helped yourself to and it was staffed mainly by local women, winnie being one, and another we referred to as "steve's ma", because she resembled a friend of ours mother.
i once took my high school marketing/busineess class there for lunch after a field trip i planned to maxwell st (after a couple polish and a pork chop sandwich). there was a gang called the "taylor st dukes" that we were supposed to watch out for, but we were hungry and ignored that.
that said, i can only say i'm a die hard al's fan. i find all others, pretenders to the throne. maybe i'm wrong, but frankly don't care. i have to much history here to consider a beef anywhere else. this is a little something i wrote re: al's a few years back. i know it doesn't answer the question regarding any franchises, which i've never found to be equal to the original as i don't care for chains. but i do have a fanatical reverence when it comes to...
italian beef
an homage’ to al’s on taylor street in chicago, which i grew up eating,
dream of often and go to immediately upon arrival back home.
to be eaten with marios italian ice, from directly across the street.
over the years, i’ve gotten it down to a science. you park @ al’s,
walk across taylor street to mario’s, get your ice, walk back to al’s, order and eat. that way, while waiting, you need not be denied any sensory indulgence...
“anything worth doing, is worth overdoing."
my earliest memories involve a “combo dipped,
hot and sweet, and fries, thanks”.
the only thing that changes here are the faces and prices.
the aforementioned beef is similar to a french dip. but to say that, would humble it’s gravitas. seasoned and slow roasted, sliced paper thin and dipped in its’ own pan juices. it’s more than the sum of it’s parts.
a “combo” is the addition of a grilled spicy italian sausage to the thin sliced ambrosia on gravy laden roll.
“hot and sweet” refer to the peppers that are additional and necessary to attain true al’s enlightenment. “sweet” are the red and green peppers sauteed in olive oil for an hour or so until they become one with the pan. “hot” is the fresh giardinera that has chopped garlic, celery, onion, plum tomato, oregano etc.
“and fries, thanks” how do i describe the definitive fry? the fact that they are whole potatoes, peeled skin on, blanched in oil, drained and then refried at an even higher temperature is shocking enough for a neighborhood joint. these are frites for christs sake, done correctly, like in a french bistro, but with the addition of the beef juices dripping from the sandwich onto them... it catapults the entire meal into legendary status. it’s more than the sum of the parts.
it's the bees knees. the real deal. the mahatma ghandi.
"In pursuit of joys untasted"
from Giuseppe Verdi's La Traviata