I was in Japan myself a a couple of months ago, and I too loved the fast food places, as well as the wonderfully quaint ones. Fortunately, as I don't read Japanese (other than recognizing some of the characters from having been to China a few times -- nice thing about a borrowed alphabet), almost everything you'll ever want to eat is rendered in plastic form at these small places, so you can pick out what you want and just remember the number when you face that little coin-operated machine. The nice thing is, not only do you not have to be able to read Japanese, you don't have to worry about pronouncing what you want, as the ticket the machine gives you lets the waiter know what you hoped to get. Of course, one picks up the words for a few favorite dishes, for those times when plastic food and little machines are not available -- such as gyu-don, also called gyu donburi -- which became one of my favorite dishes while wondering the streets of Japan. It's a dish of sliced beef and onions in a savory sauce served over a bowl of rice (donburi refers to the bowl of rice). So here's my question -- anyone out there have a good recipe for bee and onion donburi?
Unfortunately, all 16 rolls of film I shot in Japan have vanished (the place I sent them for processing is still searching for them), so I won't have a nifty photo of the dish, like the photo that started this article. But I'm grateful for the picture in the initial post, because I can direct people to that when I try to explain what these restaurants were like.
I was also surprised to find out that curry is one of the top dishes in Japan, but not curry as we know it, rather a dark brown curry that looks rather like beef stew. That's why, if you go to a Japanese grocery store, you'll find almost a whole aisle given over to curry mix. (No one makes their own "curry roux," which is what is in the boxes -- oil, flour, and curry powder, pretty much. I have not been able to find a single recipe that doesn't include "curry roux of your choice" as one of the ingredients.)
Japan is definitely a food-obsessed country, with markets everywhere and glorious food floors in every major department store. Great destination for a foodie. (And did you get to Tsukiji?)