Well, alls I know is what my Chinese colleagues told me when I asked them the same question.
1. There's a 10:1 caloric reduction going from grain to animal protein.
2. It's calorie-quantity that fights hunger, not calorie-quality; hence, more rice is a lot lot better than a little bit of animal protein.
Now that's THEIR arg, not mine.
But I do know the following.
1. By the end of the 80s, there was a pretty widespread acknowledgement in public health circles that the dowager's hump that many (where "many" = a *lot*) of older Chinese have results from calcium deficiency, mostly caused (among women, obviously) during bearing years.
2. Vegetables aren't a very efficient source of calcium; and, while fish bones are, there aren't THAT many recipes that use fish bones (think of fish bones here as borne by, say, tinned sardines).
3. Dairy products were preferable. But most Chinese (one out of three of my students thought either butter or cheese was palatable when I tested this) find most dairy products unpalatable.
4. The exception is a substance which is cold, sweet, and, preferably, drinkable. Sweetened yoghurt was thereby made available for pregnant/nursing women in Wuhan (deepest central China) by '88; British half-pint glasses of the stuff were being sold by that time on the streets of Beijing. You bought the bottle on your way to work in the morning outside your flat from a vendor, and one block later sold the empty bottle back to another vendor. I don't know when, or if, yoghurt became widely available in central China.
5. By '88 there was the first experimental (small, maybe 3 dozen head) of Guernseys at the ag school next door to my campus at U. Wuhan. They were also setting up an experimental dairy.
6. People lined up around the block in Summertime downtown Wuhan to buy ice cream. It was a party, standing in line for bing-ji-ling (?sp?).
As you can tell from all this, dairy was basically breaking news in central China in the late 80s, early 90s.
Geo
PS. And I expect that the lactose-intolerance is an effect, not a cause, of lack of dairy.
Sooo, you like wine and are looking for something good to read? Maybe
*this* will do the trick!
