Based on this thread I was curious about Costumbres Argentinas, so went there last night.
The first challenge was getting in. What looked like the main entrance - a set of double doors in the middle of the place - was locked. There were two single doors (looked like security doors) at the north and south ends of the place - neither of which would open. But we could see throught he windows that the place was open and had quite a few diners .... Finally someone came along and told us the entrance is the small gray north door - and you have to pull hard, because it sticks. So we tried it once again, pulling hard, and - voila - it opened. As we got inside, someone from the restaurant was coming for the door, apparently having seen our frustration.
It's down a flight of stairs, since the restaurant is about 1/2 story below street level. And it's a surprisingly large place, although being divided into four rooms - three streetside and what looked like a banquet room in back - it feels fairly cozy.
The first room you enter is the bar, which was a bit smoky. (Note I previously mis-identified it as BYOB, which is how The Reader lists it. But they let us bring in our wine anyway, no corkage fee, and they were very gracious about it.)
We went into the non-smoking room next to the bar (didn't notice much, if any, smoke migrating over). Interesting menu with seemingly many influences (more on that later). It appeared we might be some of the few, if not the only, non-Latinos there (which I consider a good sign).
We started by splitting the eggplant appetizer. Very interesting. The rough eggplant puree was studded with olives, served over chunks of something I couldn't identify (best guess - some sort of pickled heart of palm) and garnished with chopped lettuce and half-slices of tomato. Nice combination of flavors.
Since our previous (limited) experience with Argentinian food was at meaty places like Tango Sur, and our philosophy in trying new restaurants is "go with the strengths," we ordered the grill for two. It came with a tasty selection of tender short ribs, strips of chewy marinated steak (either flank or skirt, couldn't tell), a couple of chorizo and a couple blood sausages, and some sweatbreads. Both the chorizo and the blood sausage were excellent - chorizo was a bit lighter and less fatty than most Mexican chorizos I've had, and the blood sausage was even lighter - about as close to ethereal as a sausage has any right to be. The beef was also very good (short ribs were definitely tenderer and slightly better IMHO). Sweetbreads had good flavor, but more fibrous than others I'd had.
As we were finishing, Executive Chef Carlos Gonzales came around to the table and chatted quite a bit. He said they've been open a little more than four months, and they're doing okay (the place was fairly full that night) but he also said that mid-week can be a bit lonely (seven total customers over two days last week). He's a relatively young grad of Illinois Institute of Art's culinary program, so it's clearly not a Mom and Pop operation. He's also highly enthusiastic about what he's doing. He mentioned that he has great respect for many of the other restaurants in the city that are re-interpreting or incorporating new flavors into Latin American cuisines, but that's not his philosophy. Since Argentina is such a melting pot, especially with waves of many different Europeans arriving in the first half of the 20th century, he has so many flavors and techniques that are typical in Argentina that he doesn't need to add any; he can just take what's available and make interesting dishes. Surpringly, he said he was particularly proud of his gnocci.
We'll be back to try that next time.