Aachen, Maastricht and little fishes

Once upon a time I fell madly in love with a beautiful princess in a fairy-tale town (Werden, to be exact, on the banks of the Ruhr, exactly midway between Essen and Düsseldorf on the S6 line). Now she had a son just beginning his undergrad career at the Technische Hochschule (long since Universität, so you can see how very long ago this was...) Aachen. So one warm day in late May, or was it early June? I ventured down to that famous town to visit him. It turns out that one of the most pleasant things to do in the entire universe is to sit in the sunshine outside one of the pubs at the top of the Munsterplatz and look down at the cathedral, drinking some of the best beer in the world, watching all the college kids having a good time.

[I was just learning German at the time, and my medieval history has never been good, two faults which compounded when I read an inscription inside the cathedral, linking it to "Karl der Grosser"... "huh," I thought, "can't remember any Karl the Great in European history" Duh.]

The next morning, must have been a Saturday, Dismas took me out to a wonderful market, a farmer's market sort of thing, over the border in Nederland, toward Maastricht. "We need to stop at the fish man first" he said, and so we did. In the very front of the fish man's place (I'd swear we were outdoors or in a tent--it's been a looonnng time), was a barrel, filled nearly to the brim with shining wonderful looking small fish. "It's the new crop of herring" the fish man said, and with that swooped one onto a plate and gave it to me.

Changed my life.

There is nothing in the culinary world to match a fresh matjes right out of the barrel, early in the season. Sweet, oily, rich, fishy in the best possible way. Oh lordy lordy.

So we bought some, a bit of vinegar, and some sweet onions. Spent the afternoon feasting.

I soon learned that an excellent place to be in June is Köln, esp. in the Hintergarten of one particular tiny Gaststatte, on the Breitestraße just inside the Hohenzollering, where they know exactly what to do with matjes, and their onions are always just right, and the kolsch is prefectly fresh and at the precisely correct temperature.

Why is there no matjes an America? or, if there is, why haven't I been able to find it???

Geo

Dirk's fish carries matjes, call ahead to make sure they have it.

Erik.

Oh boy!

But: is it The Real Thing? Fairway in NYC has it, but theirs is a seriously pickled, sweet and sour herring in a jar, not at all a real matjes (i.e., where "real" = "like you get in Holland in June out of the barrel" !).

Probably I'm off on another of my famous snipe hunts...

Have you had Dirk's?

Geo

Geo,

Every summer, The Grand Central Oyster Bar in NYC has a herring festival, for which they bring in the highest quality Dutch herrings, served in various applications.

I tried an appetizer portion (which was served raw and filleted with lemon, chopped onion, and chopped egg white) along with my raw oysters, clams, and bowl of pan roasted shellfish. I can't say that I was blown away, but it could have been sensory overload on my part. For my taste, the herring would have benefitted from a little soy sauce and wasabi. One thing for sure, it couldn't have been any fresher. It was every bit as pristine as the offerings we had that evening at Masa.

In addition, Russ and Daughters stocks a wide selection of herrings including Sweedish matjes, German matjes, and those from Holland.

www.oysterbarny.com

www.shopsatcolumbuscircle.com

www.russanddaughters.com

Oh joy! Ronnie you ARE evil, aren't you?! or, at least, BAD.

We're going to be in the city in two weeks for TODG's mom's b-day. A visit to Russ and Daughters is certainly called for. I'll report anon.

The Oyster Bar's '06 calendar doesn't yet list the Herring Fest, but it *does* go back to 1 June '05, and reports that the Fest extends until 18 June. Those dates are exactly right for fresh matjes!! I'll be there, bank on it.

[Couldn't figure out the ref to Columbus Circle shoppes--wha'd I miss??]

Thanks so much!

Geo

Dirk's matjes are the real thing. i worked there from before inception until last month, and i've seen a lot of matjes come in and out. They actually have quite a large following of people who ONLY order matjes because it is hard to find. This time of the year it is frozen, but it will be fresh in june, just in time for the queens birthday (or something like that). they usually come in packages of "2 shtuks" which i seem to recall runs just under $10.

Dirk's Fish
2070 n. clybourn
chicago, 60614
773 404-3475

SushiGaijin, thanks for the Dirk's tip. I grew up eating fresh nieuwe haring (new herring) and, like Geo, sometimes crave the little fishes. Come June, I'll be at Dirk's. I may try their frozen herring in the interim.

Geo, if you like the frozen herring from Dirk's (frozen tends to be a little mushier than fresh but is still delicious), you can also order frozen from VanderVeen Dutch Imports, Grand Rapids, MI (www.thedutchstore.com). Two frozen "Hollandse Nieuwe Haring" go for $4.99 or four for $8.99. I've ordered them and found them to be the real thing. After years of shlepping frozen herring from the dutyfree shops at Schiphol airport back to Chicago, I just order them now. Shipping cost is pretty reasonable.

Did you ever try Dutch smoked eel fillets? They're amazing, melt-on-your-tongue delicious. If Dirk's carries it, I'm in trouble.

Geo,

"Masa" is located at the shops at Columbus Circle...and yes...I have been bad...pretty evil actually. With any luck, I will be punished tonight by The Lovely Donna.

Hmmm...spike heeled black patent leather boots and herring...?