I made it to Lutnia last night. Several things came to mind. “Let’s do the time warp again” from the Rocky Horror Picture Show. Mareva’s, the old Polish restaurant that used to be on Milwaukee.. The pierogi that the non-English-speaking Polish caretaker for my ex-wife’s grandmother used to make. And the “Save this Restaurant” feature in a well-known local magazine.
I wish I’d taken my camera. Despite it being 8 p.m. on a Friday night, there was only one other table occupied.
The hard-boiled half eggs with a light mayo made a great amuse bouche (what's Polish for amuse bouche?).
Flames from the Roast Duck Flambé (under the “Hearty Meat Dishes” section of the menu) reached at least three or four feet high from the tableside prep cart. The zurek (aka white borsch) was a little salty, but a very tasty accompaniment, served with another half a hard-boiled egg. The included gnocchi and pickled beets went well. My companion’s pork tenderloin was also nicely done, with similar accompaniments.
And the bill, with several glasses of wine, came to just a little over $50, not including tip.
There may be comparable places in the city, but I’m not aware of any. I may have to go back soon.
Lutnia
5532 W. Belmont Ave., Chicago
(773) 282-5335