That which is Caesar’s: Lutnia
Salad is one of those things I force myself to eat. I find consuming leaves to be cumbersome, yet undeniably salubrious, and so I do.
Years ago, I remember having a superb Caesar salad at Lutnia. It was made tableside (and for salad that requires raw egg, such upfront theatrics are not only entertainment but assurance that you’re getting it fresh). I have not been to Lutnia in probably a decade, but I remember liking the place a lot: the almost elegant service, funereal Liberace-type white piano, the pride put into the food, and a certain down-at-the-heels Old World charm that I found very comforting.
It’s my understanding that the great Caesar Cardini used to eat his namesake salad with his hands (leaves were to be oriented with stems outward, for easy grasping); I have never seen the salad served this way, though I like the concept. Spearing raw greenery with a fork is tedious.
Speaking of this salad, and stop me if you’ve heard this one, bandits invade Julius Caesar's birthday party seeking lettuce. Caesar shows them a truly beautiful salad, obviously expecting compliments. The bandit chief replies, "We come to seize your salad, not to praise it!" Ho!
Anyway, as we approach the ides of March, consider celebrating the day by going to a Polish restaurant to have a salad invented by an Italian chef, in Mexico, on the fourth of July.
Lutnia
5532 W. Belmont Ave., Chicago
773.282.5335
"Don't you ever underestimate the power of a female." Bootsy Collins