On a shrimp-related note, I was at the Jewels yesterday, which as noted elsewhere has become a riot of intrusive advertising (I also noted that they've locked out my trick of shutting off their monitors while the checkout human isn't looking). As I'm putting my acquisitions in my trunk, I see the little ad placard in my cart. It shows one of those typical advertising shots of yuppies at a dinner party, the people all with hysterical Joker-grins, the kind of exaggerated that's-it-now-hold-still look of unbelievably great fun being had that people in the biz often refer to with the name of a certain cigarette brand notorious for such plastic unreality, e.g., "I don't want them to look like they're in a frickin' Newport cigarettes ad."
The headline over these people experiencing the Death Rictus of Good Cheer is some incredibly novel ad line like "When you really want to impress, select only the best," the writer really stretched himself on that one, a regular C. Wright Mills when it comes to sociological insight, a regular Boris Vian when it comes to the experimental prose. And the product and brand for which this cutting-edge work has been done? The product was... shrimp cocktail sauce. And the brand was "Hoffman House," letters inside a little Pennsylvania Dutch shield. Never heard of it? That's okay, few have, although if you go to their
site you learn not only that they have a not-uninteresting story but at one time had restaurants in Illinois (the stuff's made in Green Bay). There are dozens of little brands like this if you look around the store, little regional canning companies and so on which got supermarket placement in 1952 and crank out their tiny share of the American grocery behemoth to this day. The datedness of the name (let's name our shrimp sauce... something German!) and the ye olde New England inn look (because nothing says shrimp like... central Pennsylvania!) is plenty typical for these brands that time forgot, relics of a world where it made sense to name a product Natur-Boy or Lady Byron rather than Totally Xtreme Jalapepperono Fruit Spazzlers.
Except time didn't forget this one; they apparently coughed up a marketing budget after 50 years and decided to make a splash as best they could, despite the total hopelessness of convincing people today that you can wow your guests by your choice of traditional shrimp cocktail sauce in a jar. People often imagine people in marketing to be evilly brilliant but the reality is this sort of self-delusion about the importance of the stuff you make to anybody ("in our studies, 54% of primary meal preparers called shrimp cocktail sauce extremely, mostly or somewhat important to the success of a shrimp-driven social occasion event") is far more common than genius.
Bob and Ray made comic genius out of these deluded entrepreneurs, the buggy whip manufacturer ("Because when you say giddy-up, you demand action"), the TV manufacturer who mistakenly put all the buttons on the bottom of the 250-lb. set, the president of the paper clip factory where the employees made each one by hand (confronted with how little he must be paying his employees based on the terrible economics of hand-made paper clips, he responds "We don't pry into our employees' personal lives, Bob and Ray... we understand most of them live in caves on the outskirts of town"). How could they have spent the money better? How could they have made shrimp sauce vital to our lives again? Stories in the press about the one-two cancer-fighting punch of shrimp and cocktail sauce? Pay some rappers to sing about how you got to be dippin' yo' little shrimpies in yo' Hoffman House? Send your ideas to Hoffman House Premium Sauces, Green Bay, WI, 54303.