Hitting The Mark

I’ve become a bit weary of restaurants that reach beyond their ability. Often, I spend much of the meal examining the gap between what they were trying to do and what actually ended up on the plate. Don’t get me wrong; it’s great to aim high. It’s just not fair to paying customers when lofty ambitions (and prices) aren’t matched by the skill of the kitchen.

For me, one place that nails it every time is Ina’s. Known mostly for her breakfast and lunch trade, she’s recently put a big push behind dinner under the tutelage of Rich Melman. The menu isn’t large, maybe eight entrees and five specials. Her conception is “casual fine dining,” really just a step above comfort food. Still, I’ve come to realize it’s much more than that.

Dropping in for dinner last night, my wife and I ordered escolar, which was simply broiled, moist and flaky on a pool of roasted tomato sauce. Also on the plate were some lightly sautéed spinach and fluffy mashed potatoes. My son enjoyed a hanger steak with caramelized shallots and a pile of crisp pommes frites. Service was friendly and efficient. Nothing unusual here, right? Not until you realize that each item was perfectly realized, balanced nicely with the other components, and presented attractively at the ideal temperature. I know that sounds like something you should expect everywhere, but think about it; when was the last time there wasn’t anything you would change about a restaurant meal?

In some counterintuitive way, Ina’s understated, assured cooking style seems to me even more sophisticated than restaurants that feel they have something to prove, but never quite do. Instead, Ina works within her abilities, aims for perfection, and for me, comes mighty close.

Ina’s
1235 W. Randolph St.
312-226-8227