warning---looooooooong, integral digressions, bad language, general politically-incorrect mayhem:
(pirated intact from my obligatory blog)
Duck Season, Rabbit Season
We planned on morel hunting this week; traveling back down south post the recent wedding(last visit). Mid-April(last week) was meant as the culmination of plotting vis a vis LA friends in town for Easter. Plans change; Tom’s Aunt Betty died of bacterial pneumonia. We were summoned for her funeral. Mark and Ralph were left to their own devices.
---when did the Monee, IL Burger King go all ghetto---? I prefer rural BK’s. They tend toward the competent side of incompetency far more than their urban brethren. But this one...whew...(is there a term ala “fag hag” for the fat white girl in cornrows teh sprech de argot?) anyway...as the manager, she spent our entire meal of
shittty medium number 1’s bitching at her subordinate to “put yr gawdamn hat back on...”
---tweaker ctrl across the street where I tried to find bottled water, but eventually gave up when I saw the line of jittering, grizzled baby-bump’d tweens queued for their lotto fix
The evening prior to the funeral we had ham. Poor Tom...we’d been eating off a Cure 81 all the past week.
Funerals...fuck. I’d just hung out with Aunt Betty at the wedding while her tablemates cut a rug. Speaking of which, a bundle of breezy coral and carmine scarves took my arm as I stood outside on break from the visitation. She said, “young man...young man...I used to go jitterbugging with her in there...she loved to jitterbug at old...unintelligible....” She tottered off; a dwindling blur of pinks smudged across the sunbleached parking lot.
After the interment a local church offered us family potluck: strawberry jello gingerbread, deviled eggs, pasta salad, etc.
Next day we took Tom’s Aunt Tammy and her son, Charlie, far across the nascent cornfields to Moonshine for fellowship of our own: those handformed burgers of perfection bejeweled with mustards and pickles. Relaxing out back swaddled by an early-Spring breeze. I dig everything about Moonshine. Maybe I’m just another tourist to them...can’t say I give damn.
For those who keep score they’ve just broken their previous record---780-plus burgers sold in one afternoon. Moonshine Hours: close at 12:30 pm.
That evening Tom’s dad loaded me up with chicken thighs(I did some in garlic/lemon/sage, others in my totally unfamous quasi-crypto “asian” marinade), brats, and we picked up some ribeyes at the IGA. IGA cuts some great meat, just don’t expect fresh veg or herbs...it IS farm country/America’s Heartland, afterall...
Drank wine, sunstroked, self-smoked at the grill.
We left Saturday morning, but not before a final (8 AM)---which entailed getting up to pack around 6 AM so we could hightail it over there in time---family gathering at D&W, a hella popular diner hidden off the main drag in Mattoon. It is what it is and cheap to boot. I’ve always liked D&W. Still feeling the effects of the previous day’s liquid endeavors, I might’ve only been able to get down a fruit cup. Canned fruit tasted damn fermented...and I felt remarkably refreshed upon finishing it...definitely some hair of the dog going on.
Somehow we made it back and dropping off the car agreed to meet Mark n Ralph and Co. at the Marshall Field’s Frango Mint counter.
Yay! Dave and Gill! Athens, Ohioans by way of South Africa. It’d been at least ten years since last hanging with Mark’s brother and his wife. Oy Veh! Too much time sweeps past. Would that there were more of it to play at catch-up. We made the best of...conversation riffing from Dave’s top secret energy work to Gill’s gig at the Ohio University Press and profound glee for all things culinary...(not something that I share, of course)...and jazz improvisation modalities.
We hopped over to the Atwood Cafe’ where they gave us some unexpected shade about not wanting to serve us “drinks-only” in the half-empty restaurant. Whatevah. Might I mention that plenty’s the times I’ve had “just drinks” at The Atwood. Wrong foot notwithstanding we obliged and ordered a few nibbles. My special “Carribean” chicken soup wasn’t all that Carribean, but it was tasty. I guess the addition of a soupcon of black beans gives it that tropical flair. I grokked Dave and Gill were still stuffed from their dinner the night before at Blackbird.
In fact this would soon become something of a running “gag” over the weekend; this preoccupation with being stuffed...images of gavage and geese.
We taxiid up to our neighborhood and gave them the tour: Playboy Mansion....etc..., Palmer residence, Sullivan and Wright inspired edifices. Beautiful day for it.
Mark and Tom n I wound up at a quiet pre-dinner rush Coq D’or for executive cocktails(i.e. a cocktail and a half). Liza Minelli was drinking? not ten feet away. I wasn’t sure it was her at first, but then I heard the voice and shooting her a surreptitious(not surreptitious enough) glance she gazed up with a sorta...”yeah...it’s me.” Liza w/ a Z, mf.
To find reservations at 7pm Saturday Easter weekend:
Geno’s East? Brasserie Jo? Le Colonial? NoMi? Carnivale? Cafe Absinthe? Nope and Nope.
I offered...how about Sweets and Savories? Thanks LThforum. It just so happened to be Dave and Gill’s 29th wedding anniversary.
S&S actually had room for 6 immediately.
Figuring on the requisite 5-6 courses we went with the prix-fixe, or, as the waitstaff(more on them later) put it, “the chef would like to cook for you.” No matter that everyone else in the restaurant would, it turns out, be enjoying the same dishes. Mere semantics.
Little did we know the chef had some surprises up his sleeve in the form of at least 4 more courses. What was this about farming geese?
Eventually, I’ll get to some observations of the waitstaff. I’ll preface, however, that table service was exemplarily unobtrusive, professional. Glasses needed to be filled...suddenly they were...everytime we thought...dear god!...we must be done!...and another set of tableware arrived, it was with a whisper and a dash.
Menu:
chocolate brioche, salt brioche, and golden raisin/fennel bread
foie gras mousseline with pomegranate coulis and toast poin(t)
carrot ginger soup with creme fraiche and chives
alaskan halibut w/ sweet corn butter over lobster claw and home fries
asparagus risotto w/truffle oil
farm-raised/organic/artisanal/boutique/free range/college-educated beef tenderloin and tomato chutney over truffled white corn polenta with herb-infused jus
cheese plate: an aged goat’s milk, a queso fresco?, sweet gorgonzola with sweet balsamic/preserved kumquat/juniper berries
apricot chardonnay sorbet ala Ciao Bella
sticky toffee w/ creme anglaise
chocolate ganache, chocolate sorbet, chocolate syrup, chocolatey chocolate choco-choc
mignardise of housemade seville orange/laurel truffles
citrus Pelligrino
Bollinger
white bordeaux
...so...much...food
hence the repeated paraphrasing that evening of:
“here...it’s just a mint...it’s wafer thin...only a wafer thin mint!”
rundown:
I enjoyed the sweet bite of fennel seed in the bread.
Once the lone toast point disappeared the foie paired synergisticallly with a shred of chocolate brioche.
I loved the sugar and back-of-palate ginger burn of the soup...just the right thick-ish consistency.
The halibut didn’t do much for me, unfortunately...mine seemed a tad firmer than it ought and my lobster claw was awfully stringy. I thought the flavors were there w/ the sweet corn butter and what not, but the potato pushed it into the realm of heavy. Also, I started experiencing uncomfortable sinus/mucus issues not long after eating the dandelion? clover? sprigs atop the dish. That, of course, is my problem...not the kitchen’s. To their credit they replaced my non-shellfish-eating friend’s lobster with a scallop. I’m not a scallop fan(I’m not sure he is either) but, they tried.
I eat sloooooooow.
The relatively quick pace of the kitchen(and my fellow diners)

began to wear a bit about this point.
I eat soooooooo sloooooooooow.
Sloooooooooooooooooooooooooow.
Then came perhaps the highlight of the meal: a revelatory asparagus risotto. I doubt any risotto as aethereal has ever passed my lips. I could’ve devoured a trough of this and been in bliss. A dream of risotto. Dead on, knock my socks off.
oh lord it’s....the meat course!
Beautifully, rare-ish tenderloin...I dug the sweet counterpoint of the chutney...the jus was intriguingly tobacco-y...the truffled polenta, overkill. I suppose it’s a kind of heresy to refuse more truffle. I’d enjoyed my fill in the previous course.
A fellow diner preferred his steak cooked thru...to the waitstaff’s credit I didn’t detect any rolling of the eyes...they did loudly announce the request to the kitchen, but they were pretty rambunctious to begin with...
dear Hecate!...bring on the cheese!
Mmm...the sweet gorgonzola esp. paired yummily with the accoutrements and I got Ralph’s kumquat.
sorbet was fine...innocuous(Ciao Bella?)
I’m not a chocoholic(something my mom will never understand as, each year, for whatever holiday...I receive a big box of it)...I’m definitely more of a sugar/fruit/herb/sweet spice person so...I was pleasantly surprised by a dessert of crunchy, caramelly sticky toffee...again...excellent...
...I could’ve burst...yet, I managed to scarf up most of mine...
Followed by...egads! Chocolate on chocolate with chocolate choco cocoa chocachocachoca....urgh...
well...I did my best...
we left to an empty restaurant and Chinese takeout box of scrumptious flavored truffles...enjoyed from the fridge over the next few days...
thank you Ralph
---
I’ll keep my notes on the waitstaff to a minimum. Suffice to say I read a bit of that hoary, cliche’d...”I’m not just a waiter, but an actor” vibe off our main two. The woman, initially quirky, became a tad grating in her idiosyncrasies as the night wore on...
I liked our head waiter at first. He amused our guests with his, as they put it, “Chicago verve.” At some point he asked where everyone was from. Four at the table had at one point(myself and Mark) gone to school in Ohio(Athens) or still lived there(Dave and Gill).
So, the head waiter lights up and starts riffing on the great music scene in Athens(confusedly, I might add...he was conflating Akron, Ohio and Athens, Georgia)...and it wasn’t that he was wrong...whatever...it was his insistence that he was right and when we jokingly...politely attempted to put him right...he insisted we were wrong: “No, no, no...you’re wrong...I’m sorry...you’re wrong.” Friendly, if ingratiatingly so, up to that point, he suddenly became dismissive and arguably, rude. Odd.
Post-dinner before we waddled our way out the door our friends were invited back to greet the chef. He was supposedly going to come out and greet US, but...shrug...
The friends were announced...boisterously...”hey, chef...here’re some FANS of yours...”
Yes, I suppose after the meal we could be considered fans, but the context was a little embarrassing. Perhaps there was the implication of sycophantism.
Verdict: mixed
on the one hand: undeniably outstanding and/or creative dishes
on the other: a waitstaff one might deem a tad sketchy
---
Easter Sunday, Dave and Gill took off back to Ohio, I was offered the opportunity to meet Ralph’s family in the hinterlands. Tom had to go into work. I occasionally feel awkward in social situations so it is with great affection that I describe Big David, his wife Mary, their son David the Younger, matriarch Dorothy and her beau Charles as extraordinarily warm and welcoming.
full disclosure: Dorothy and Charles humped in a garagantuan, ambrosial ham prepared by a family friend--- Nick Noble, legendary Chicago crooner and erstwhile owner? of Lou Mitchell’s. I enjoyed an awkward, stilted conversation(I jest) with Mr. Noble when Charles dialed him up and tossed me the phone.
I wish I could find more on the internets:
http://www.beverlyrecords.com/celebrity.htm
(scroll way, way down)
Everyone’s a fan.
But, what about Mr. Noble’s ham, you ask? One of his secrets is Dr. Pepper, a great foil for savory pork. This was a damn fine Easter celebration.
I’m still waiting a written out recipe for Mary’s onion pudding. It was quite the spread what with all the sides and this n that. Mary even packed us up a goody bag for later including the cutest little easter baskets. I always stay in for Easter, this was a treat.
---
Somehow, that blustery, stormy night we wound up with shots and beers at Mike Ditka’s.
Over the visit we’d spied a hare on the Cardinal’s lawn, a mallard and his mate backyard of the Easter festivities. We toasted these tasty critters and others, having assumed a relative gavage of our own; stomachs burgeoning, livers groaning, thoughts of more to eat. L’Chaim. Next year in Israel. Or, rather, next morning at The Bongo Room.
Being gauche rocks, stun the bourgeoisie