La Esquina - Mexican near SoHo New York

Low Down New York City Entry #87 La Esquina

The demimonde of New York was abuzz. A buzz. A hidden restaurant had opened in a rundown basement, and the best thing was . . . you could not make reservations. You had to be known or know the right someone. Some publicist deserves a Oscar. Who wouldn't salivate to dine in a club that wouldn't have them as a member? To enter La Esquina, "The Corner," located a stone's throw from SoHo in Nolita (North of Little Italy), one passes through a guarded door, reading "Employees Only," leading to a walk through the busy kitchen and into an underground scene.

In due course, the phone number was publicized, and La Esquina now counterfeits its own image. Still, if it does not serve Mexican cuisine that is either distinguished or authentic, the basement is a blast. As has been described, here is Latin chic or, perhaps, sheik. We sat across from a tile rendition of a erotic pano, an image based on cloth drawn by Hispanic prisoners. The painfully loud music and shadowy bar captured the Downtown ethos as filtered through Veracruz. We ate in a dungeon of fantasy, whitewashed brick walls and faded arches. Even if conversation was a lost art, the crowds and servers were bubbling and merry, and the food promptly prepared.

We ordered Ceviche Tostados and Cochinita Pibil Tacos (pulled pork, shredded cabbage, picked onions, and jalapeno). The tostados were acidic and the tacos slightly dry, but we were flying too high to critique. As a main course I selected Camarones a la Plancha, Mayan shrimp with honey, lime glaze, over corn salad. I was well-pleased by the glaze and the large moist prawns. Perhaps the corn salad could have been further drained, but I was sucking down the ambiance. The spareribs and fried plantain sufficed without being evocative.

At $100 for three, La Esquina stands at some considerable distance from a corner taqueria. It merely plays one on TV. Mexican cuisine has not been one of the strengths of the New York ethnic dining scene; for that Los Angeles or Chicago is the ticket. La Esquina doesn't push far in that direction. Across the street from SoHo, La Esquina is environmental art. Yet, its rough charm is abundant, and when that is not sufficient, just imagine all of those suckers who couldn't have the pleasure.

La Esquina
106 Kenmare Street (at Lafayette Street)
Manhattan (Nolita)
646-613-7100

http://www.vealcheeks.blogspot.com

Agreed. I was in the neighborhood for a while earlier this year. Here's what I said about La Esquina (the excerpt explains my earlier one word review "farcical.).

"I chose "farcical" because I found the food offered at the two places mentioned to be comically disrespectful.

First, let me revise my geography and say that it been brought to my attention that the confluence of SoHo, Chinatown and Little Italy where I found myself is called Nolita.

"The Mexican joints. These are fashionistas' stylized, caricatured conceptions of Mexican restaurants. Mexican Radio is big on $15 burritos and sizzling fajitas; La Esquina is a "swanky" bar with a phony taqueria up front where real Mexicans are forced to make chicken tacos with flour tortillas and the "insider" dish is "maiz." I think they mean "elotes," but perhaps the Mexicans refused to paint that on the faux-East LA signage because the boiled frozen corn bears little resemblance to our beloved street snack.

To summarize, Mexican Radio is a retail buyers' postcard from a trip to Cancun, while La Esquina is a blurry recollection of his trip to LA."

I didn't get the rough charm part is the only difference.