City Noor

LTH,

Had lunch at City Noor yesterday with Erik M, and a wonderful lunch it was. Erik, who has sung the praises of falafel made with fava bean, as opposed to chickpea, is now preaching to the choir about the joys of fava bean falafel. While I am not ready to wholly dismiss chickpea falafel, especially the falafel made at Salam, the fava bean brought a dimension of rich, almost luxuriousness, flavor to the falafel.

Here's a picture of the wonderfully gracious owner of City Noor, Maysoun, holding an order of fava bean falafel.


Erik and I had a number of other dishes, including Molukhai, which consisted of three parts.


Lime Rice


Shawerma meat mixed with house-made hot sauce.


And a vegetable that was reminiscent in viscousness to okra, but Noor said was a type of leaf.


Erik and I also had Kibbeh. which contained pine nuts and was delicious.


Hummus


and Torshi (pickle)


Erik had been to City Noor a number of times,and developed an easy, friendly, relationship with Noor. Though I must say, as a first timer there, she couldn't have been nicer to me. I highly recommend City Noor, even though it has only been open a few weeks, everything seems to be running very smoothly.

I'd also suggest visiting City Noor meat market a few doors North, also friendly and informed, with incredibly fresh appearing meats.

As an aside, Erik and I started a conversation with the fellow sitting next to us at the counter, Phil. Turns out he is a foodie of some note, the person his friends go to with restaurant questions. I notice Phil has joined LTHForum, I'm looking forward to his participation. I'm sure he has loads of great info and insights.

Enjoy,
Gary

City Noor
4714 N Kedzie
Chicago, IL
60625
773-267-677

OK, that all looks great, but the kibbeh pic puts this on my short list. And to think I was just bemoaning the lack of good kibbeh in Chicago. PS, is it filled with lamb? Are favas involved in the "breading"? Thanks.

Jeff,

Here's an 'inside' pic of City Noor's kibbeh.



Enjoy,
Gary

JeffB wrote:Are favas involved in the "breading"?

Kibbeh is ground meat (usually lamb) mixed with bulghur. The coating typically has a higher proportion of bulghur, the filling much lower.

There are also raw varieties of kibbeh, which I haven't had the stomach to try yet. Outside of sushi, razor-thin carpaccio is about the only raw meat I've been interested in.

I still like Pita Inn's version, but I wouldn't mind some more basis for comparison.

I've tried to make a baked variety, which is, in essence, a lamb meatloaf, which is crisped by pre-slicing a shallow baking pan full of alternating layers of high-bulgur and low-bulgur kibbeh into diamond shapes and pouring butter over prior to baking. My results were poor, due, I think, to too-coarse bulghur that wasn't soaked enough.

JeffB wrote:OK, that all looks great, but the kibbeh pic puts this on my short list. And to think I was just bemoaning the lack of good kibbeh in Chicago. PS, is it filled with lamb? Are favas involved in the "breading"? Thanks.

Well, if you were as picky as I am, your search would continue. For me, proper kibbe makli incorporates ground meat into the shell as well as the stuffing. That said, the stuffing in City Noor's kibbe makli is quite nice.

Erik M.

JoelF wrote:I've tried to make a baked variety, which is, in essence, a lamb meatloaf, which is crisped by pre-slicing a shallow baking pan full of alternating layers of high-bulgur and low-bulgur kibbeh into diamond shapes and pouring butter over prior to baking. My results were poor, due, I think, to too-coarse bulghur that wasn't soaked enough.

This is what I know as kibbe bi saniyyeh. City Noor has an item on the menu which is listed as "kubat mosul." Noor's description of it sounds like something similar to kibbe bi saniyyeh. "It is kibbe, but baked flat, like a bread," she said. I have not tried it, but I am considering it for our lunch spread, tmrw.

Erik M.

That looks fantastic, can't wait to try it. I have plans to leave town tomorrow, but will call if I don't.

The only kibbeh I have with any regularity is at Middle East Bakery. The meat filled is pretty lame. The spinach and onion filled is out of this world delicious. No comment as to its authenticity.

pd

Kibbeh is fairly widespread middle eastern/Arabic food, and IME, takes some different forms. I don't know from authentic, but I have preferred versions that are more "stuffed" than those with a consistent mix. Same for crab cakes. Then, there's the atrocious "potato" kibbeh at Andie's on Clark. Raw kibbeh is a different matter alltogether.

JeffB wrote:Kibbeh is fairly widespread middle eastern/Arabic food, and IME, takes some different forms. I don't know from authentic, but I have preferred versions that are more "stuffed" than those with a consistent mix.

"Different forms," sure. There are cheap shortcuts, too. Should you care to acknowledge a difference, it may be worth discussing at greater length.

I am talking about a shell mixture that incorporates very lean ground meat--preferably lamb--which has been finely ground/minced. The stuffing, ideally, incorporates a coarser grind/mince of meat--sometimes lamb and sometimes beef--which has a looser structure.

The incorporation of meat into the shell mixture provides moisture, texture, and flavour, and generally, in that order.

Given the difference in the remaining ingredients for both mixtures, the contrast between "interior" and "exterior" remains quite sharp.

Erik M.

G Wiv wrote:City Noor
4714 N Kedzie
Chicago, IL
60625
773-267-677

There's a number missing here....

There's a number missing here....

It's missing a 7. Complete contact info is:

City Noor Kabab
4714 N Kedzie Av
Chicago IL 60625
773-267-6777
773-267-9163 (fax)
www.zabihahalal.net

Presently the website only has information about their meat market. The current restaurant hours are 10am-midnight, 7 days a week.

G Wiv wrote: And a vegetable that was reminiscent in viscousness to okra, but Noor said was a type of leaf.

The viscous okra-like vegetable is Jew's Mallow. I don't think you can find it fresh in Chicago, but frozen varieties are readily available (right up the street at Al-Khayam, for example). I think you can buy it dried as well but I've been told that frozen is superior. There are popular Mallow stews in Egypt and Algeria ... probably Morocco as well, but I'm not familiar with them. Molokhia is both the name of the vegetable in Egypt and the stew/soup. I thought it was more commonly served as a stew rather than on separate plates. My understanding was that it was most often made with Chicken.

Being that both molokhia and fava bean falafel are popular in Egypt - where I think falafel are called ta'amia - it seems like there's a strong Egyptian twist to City Noor ... adding to the interesting juxtaposition of Indian, Pakistani, and Halal fish sticks.

rien

rien wrote:Being that both molokhia and fava bean falafel are popular in Egypt - where I think falafel are called ta'amia - it seems like there's a strong Egyptian twist to City Noor ... adding to the interesting juxtaposition of Indian, Pakistani, and Halal fish sticks.

As mentioned in the post by Amata here, one of the chefs (from what the owner said, it sounded as though he is the main chef) is Egyptian. The owners are Palestinian.

Antonius

(from what the owner said, it sounded as though he is the main chef) is Egyptian. The owners are Palestinian.

The Egyptian is no longer there.

What was the restaurant in that space beforehand? I realized when I went in today I had eaten there (and enjoyed some 50s sword and sandals epic on the big TV, imagining what the cheesy dialogue would translate as) but can't remember the name.

pdaane wrote:That looks fantastic, can't wait to try it. I have plans to leave town tomorrow, but will call if I don't.

The only kibbeh I have with any regularity is at Middle East Bakery. The meat filled is pretty lame. The spinach and onion filled is out of this world delicious. No comment as to its authenticity.

pd

Question. The "spinach and onion filled" kibbeh - is that a purely vegetarian
one, then? Or is there some meat mixed into the outer layer, as usually seems
to be the case (at least with most meat kibbeh)? The reason I ask - a few
friends are purely vegetarian, and dont eat meat on religious grounds, and
hence have never tried kibbeh (usually they do the falafel and babaganoush,
the only real items on the menu that are entirely meat-free - well, and the
hummous I suppose). This is usually at Pita Inn (which doesnt offer a
meat-free kibbeh). If Noor does offer an entirely meat-free version of
a kibbeh in addition to the other usual stuff, it would make some people
very happy indeed Anyone know for sure either way?

c8w

Mike G wrote:What was the restaurant in that space beforehand? I realized when I went in today I had eaten there (and enjoyed some 50s sword and sandals epic on the big TV, imagining what the cheesy dialogue would translate as) but can't remember the name.

I think that it was called "George's King Kabab." The floor was covered with glow-in-the-dark roller rink carpeting. I, personally, found the food to be below average.

When we went for lunch, Saturday, here's what we had: Mossabaha (my request, as it is not on the menu), Kubat Mosul (the flat, baked kibbe variant), Fattoush, Baba Ghanoush, Chicken Soup, Lamb Shank with Baby Okra Stew (a featured special), Dolmas (a featured special), Stuffed Zucchini (a featured special), Kefta Skewers, Falafil, and Shish Tavouk With Rice.

With time, I think that City Noor will show itself to be distinct in, at least, one notable way. That being, the guidance and direction of its female chef. It is already my opinion that the specials tend to be more truly representative of homestyle Arab cuisine than any other establishment that I can think of. This is a cuisine that is, traditionally, at least, the (nearly) exclusive province of women. Find me a restaurant kitchen staffed by men that is willing to handroll dozens of tiny dolma, or spend hours stuffing zucchini.

What did you have?

Erik M.

C8w,

There is no meat in the bulgher coating that I can detect. That being said, I suggest you give them a call to discuss what you are looking for. Quite often they do not have the spinach and onion, when I asked why, he told me that they only sell the extras left over from an order (e.g., someone orders 5 doz and their batch makes 6 doz.).

You may also wish to discuss what is true vegetarian. I would only guess that they are all fried in the same oil. This bothers most vegans, not necessarily vegetarians.

People at MEB are friendly, though sometimes not the most communicative.

pd


Middle East Bakery and Pastry 773.561.2224
1512 W. Foster Ave. (Foster at Clark)
Chicago, IL

Erik M. wrote:What did you have?

Well, of course I drew a total blank on this thread (I had originally set off to try some Ecuadoran place, but traffic was bad so I headed to Kedzie instead), so I just ordered kufta kebab and some foul. They were all right, but clearly I wound up with the equivalent of the grilled cheese sandwich at the soul food place.

c8w wrote:Question. The "spinach and onion filled" kibbeh - is that a purely vegetarian
one, then? Or is there some meat mixed into the outer layer, as usually seems
to be the case (at least with most meat kibbeh)? The reason I ask - a few
friends are purely vegetarian, and dont eat meat on religious grounds, and
hence have never tried kibbeh c8w

I just had the kibbeh, called kubbah, at the Pita Express in the Thompson Center. I had the meat-filled version but they do offer one that is strictly vegetarian.

Erik M. wrote:

Mike G wrote:What was the restaurant in that space beforehand? I realized when I went in today I had eaten there (and enjoyed some 50s sword and sandals epic on the big TV, imagining what the cheesy dialogue would translate as) but can't remember the name.

I think that it was called "George's King Kabab." The floor was covered with glow-in-the-dark roller rink carpeting. I, personally, found the food to be below average.

When we went for lunch, Saturday, here's what we had: Mossabaha (my request, as it is not on the menu), Kubat Mosul (the flat, baked kibbe variant), Fattoush, Baba Ghanoush, Chicken Soup, Lamb Shank with Baby Okra Stew (a featured special), Dolmas (a featured special), Stuffed Zucchini (a featured special), Kefta Skewers, Falafil, and Shish Tavouk With Rice.

With time, I think that City Noor will show itself to be distinct in, at least, one notable way. That being, the guidance and direction of its female chef. It is already my opinion that the specials tend to be more truly representative of homestyle Arab cuisine than any other establishment that I can think of. This is a cuisine that is, traditionally, at least, the (nearly) exclusive province of women. Find me a restaurant kitchen staffed by men that is willing to handroll dozens of tiny dolma, or spend hours stuffing zucchini.

What did you have?

Erik M.

Those stuffed zucchini were my favorite dish on Saturday. A touch bland, really plain is a better word, but as Erik described, tasting of extreme care in their preparation, satisfying. I also liked the soup with the fluffy matzah ball like dumplings. I think the lack of business hindered some of the dishes, the dips, the salad, the bread, which just did not taste very fresh. The hot sauce was not really my cup of tea, bland in a bad way, but I did really enjoy the mustard oil heavy pickles and the garlic infused yoghurt sauce.

Rob

Molokhia would fit with the Egyptian in the kitchen. Another leaf that is used in Persian cooking, specifically a stew with beef, is translated as claptrap, is a form of purslane, but not the purslane beloved of Mexicans, rather that of the French.

Planning on checking this place out this evening. One quick question - is it BYOB or do they have a liquor license?

They don't have a liquor license, but I'm not sure they're BYOB either. You should probably call first.

I hadn't even considered the fact that alcohol might not be something that's welcome in their establishment. Given the Palestinian owners, that's entirely possible. I think we'll just do without, and avoid making a faux paus.

Molokhia would fit with the Egyptian in the kitchen.

Please note there is NO EGYPTIAN in the kitchen at Noor. The menu was designed by the owners, which set the direction of this restaurant. The Egyptian was hired to cook. In this restaurant of only a few weeks old, the Egyptian was there only 1-2 weeks before he was let go. What is emerging from the kitchen is entirely without the Egyptian's influence.

City Noor Revisited

This post is intended just as an update here that perhaps will also call attention to City Noor Kabab for those who have joined LTH since this thread was last active.

Amata and I travelled to Albany Park in order to do some shopping at two stores we've been frequenting for quite a few years now on the stretch of Kedzie just south of Lawrence, namely, the grocery and bakery, Al Khayam, and the butcher shop, City Noor Meat. We decided to time the visit so that we could also have lunch at City Noor Kabab.

It's good to see that City Noor Kabab is still there and still serving good food, especially in light of the confused attack levelled at it by a certain pill who writes occasionally on Planet Leff. But as the Arabic proverb says, "confusion is a sign of guilt."

For lunch we ordered several items to be split by the taller people and chicken nuggets and fries from the "Fast Food Halal" menu for Lucantonius. Amata and I shared appetizer orders of hummos (here I follow City Noor's menu in the spelling), falafel, and baba ghanouj and also an order of one of the two daily specials, namely fasuliya. The fasuliya was comprised of a thin tomato sauce filled with cannellini beans and, per our request, several large and meaty chunks of lamb, served with a large platter of colourful and nicely seasoned rice: a very homey, simple dish that formed, together with the appetizers, a most substantial meal. We only ate about half of the fasuliya and brought the rest home to make a quick soup for lunch some time. Incidentally, the other special of the day was okra with rice and, optionally, either beef or lamb.

Everything was quite tasty and the friendly service from our butcher/restaurateur friends, Sam and Meisuun, made for a very pleasant lunch that cost all told in the $25 range. We also received a couple of cups of good, strong tea on the house to round out our meal.

At City Noor Meat, we bought some nicely trimmed lamb (destined for a ragú to be served with rigatoni or paccheri, some soujouk to adorn couscous, and some ground lamb and beef which will be transformed into kefta. The butcher shop now has a website: City Noor Meat Site.

The adddress of the restaurant is 4714 N. Kedzie and the butcher shop is a couple of doors up the street at 4718 N. Kedzie.

Antonius

Might as well add my pics to the list. I very much enjoyed my meal there.

FROM MY MEAL AT THE RESTAURANT






FROM THE MARKET

Coincidentally, I went to City Noor for the first time in a while for a takeout falafel sandwich yesterday for lunch. The falafels were fried fresh, the sandwich up to its usual high standards.

City Noor Re-Revisited

Couldn't resist appropriating Antonius' type for another re-report bumping City Noor up again.

I picked someone up at O'Hare today and needed a north side place that would be fun to take her to-- but that wouldn't kick me in the dirt as I recover from the stomach flu which has been making the rounds in Chicago this winter. City Noor occurred to me as I came east on Lawrence (pointing out to my guest all the nationalities represented on our best immigrant street) and seemed an obvious choice for a revisit, since I had not been there in some time.

A couple of noteworthy changes have been made. First, well, Maysoun (Mrs. City Noor) had noticed the many photos taken by folks like G Wiv and I during our visits, and long ago she had asked if she could have some to put in the window to show passersby what the food is like. I printed several out and we gave them to her as a token of our thanks... then they never went up in the window. So I had been a little put off by that, but happily discovered that at last they were up, even framed, throughout the front windows, along with their LTHForum Great Neighborhood Restaurant Award. So I was able to show that off to my guest-- hey, I done that!

More importantly, they've redecorated a bit, making the main dining area look nicer and more separate from the kitchen/carry-out counter area. The menu has also expanded, I think, at least I don't remember such delicacies as "goat spleen" or "the brain plate" being on the regular bill before.

Unchanged was the food, which was all quite delicious, and it was a pleasure being able to talk intelligently about the mansaf, with its sauce based on goat yogurt imported from Iraq (try and find that in Kansas...) I didn't expect Maysoun to necessarily remember me more than vaguely, when I dine with G Wiv people tend to remember G Wiv, he's like Buddy Hackett on the Tonight Show, forget about getting the spotlight, but in fact she made a point of making it clear that she did (as did her husband Sami when he came in later), which further earned me a brownie point or two in my guest's eyes for being the sort of urban bon vivant-about-town who knows wine captains and ethnic restaurant owners alike. (Except for not actually knowing any wine captains.) She also brought us some of the dolmas they were in the process of making, still warm (from the rice inside, I guess), as a little extra, another sign of my pull as a macher in this burg, tailor-made to impress my guest from Kansas with what a big shot I am.

Mom really liked the food at City Noor, too....