Lower Mahattan-A-Thon

I Think I Ate Too Much

Work took me to SoHo and surrounds this week. I'm pretty fried from all of the work, including working breakfasts, lunches and dinners, plus late-night LTH-type excursions. I'm going all-emoticom on this one. I'll consider questions, if any.

Balthazar, several b'fasts and one late-night snack of frites and oysters Beer selection at this Belgian/French shrine:

New York Noodle Town, shrimp dumpling soup, oyster and pork clay pot:

Joe's Shanghai, crab and pork buns (aka soup dumplings): *

Lombardi's pie with red sauce and mozzarella **

Mercer Kitchen, potato cake w/ cod and olive syrup P. Diddy at next booth

Alleva Dairy fresh mozz' and sopressata piccante ***

Babbo veal cheek and squab liver ravioli , sweet n' savory sweetbreads ****

Mexican Food in the neighborhood, e.g., La Esquina and Mexican Radio, farcical. Might as well be Mexican in Switzerland.

Spring Lounge :D (Chicago bar in SoHo.)

* Not life changing, as for some. "Soup" is better, as many say. The rest, pretty much like what I've had here. I'm not among the Beloved/Chosen on this one.

** Not as Italian as Italian American at this point. Rubbery cheese, tinny sauce, chewier than a Nabledan pie, but it all comes together smashingly.

*** Nice place. Oldest Italian market in the US. I prefer Riviera's sopresatta. I have one from Alleva in the fridge. Maybe a blind tasting is in order.

**** A little disappointed in the food. Sauce and meats in ravioli were tremendous, but pasta was very stiff. Sweetbreads are a noble but ultimately failed experiment: German-Meets-American Chinese-Meets-Italian applied to sweetbreads. Three massive hunks of possibly the best sweetbreads I've had, but then deep-fried Panda Express stylie and covered with cloying sweet and sour red cabbage. Tough wine pairing. But I really enjoyed the whole place and would go again. Ate at the bar, late.

PS, prices, noodles to truffles, same as here. Gas is cheaper. Cabs are cheaper. Rent, not so much.

Interesting and amusing... Any details you care to share about your Alpine-Mexican event?

I'd like to go to Babbo one of these days but after reading your description, I'm not sure the sweetbreads would be what I'd order...

Antonius

A--

As you know, language is for losers, so I am trying to rely more on the 20 archetypal emoticons offered here on LTH. However, I was at a loss for emoticons when trying to describe the Mexican food in SoHo.

I chose "farcical" because I found the food offered at the two places mentioned to be comically disrespectful.

First, let me revise my geography and say that it been brought to my attention that the confluence of SoHo, Chinatown and Little Italy where I found myself is called Nolita.

The Mexican joints. These are fashionistas' stylized, caricatured conceptions of Mexican restaurants. Mexican Radio is big on $15 burritos and sizzling fajitas; La Esquina is a "swanky" bar with a phony taqueria up front where real Mexicans are forced to make chicken tacos with flour tortillas and the "insider" dish is "maiz." I think they mean "elotes," but perhaps the Mexicans refused to paint that on the faux-East LA signage because the boiled frozen corn bears little resemblance to our beloved street snack.

To summarize, Mexican Radio is a retail buyers' postcard from a trip to Cancun, while La Esquina is a blurry recollection of his trip to LA.

"$15 burritos"

Hrummph.

YourPalWill wrote:"$15 burritos"

Hrummph.

JeffB wrote:To summarize, Mexican Radio is a retail buyers' postcard from a trip to Cancun, while La Esquina is a blurry recollection of his trip to LA.

(Yes, you're right; language is overrated. For now on I will employ more emoticons and hand gestures.)

I bet there is some good Mexican stuff to be had by now in some of the newly Mexicanised neighbourhoods, for example, up in the Bronx (so I hear tell). But 'Nolita' ain't one of 'em...

A

Someone asked for me to expand on Balthazar's breakfast. It is an interesting topic because B'zar is one of the fancier non-hotel restaurants that serves breakfast every morning (it opens at 7:30).

I had (1) eggs Florentine, which was good, not great; (2) English breakfast (which I love and always get if its on the menu) which was not so great; and (3) poached eggs with toast and homefries, which was ok.

Balthazar opens at 7:30 and closes at 1:30 or 2:00 am. I jokingly described Balthazar as SoHo's Denny's, and the locals agreed there is much truth to that: the place is as full-service a restaurant as any Greek diner, but much more expensive and serious about food, obviously. It is very comfortable, especially at off hours. It's nuts late in the b'fast hours, at lunch, and after work through dinner. It is the anchor of the neighborhood and filled with regulars.

I most enjoyed it after midnight (NY time). The hippest 'hood in the city that never sleeps is pretty damn quiet on a Tuesday at midnight, and only one or two Chinatown places worth visiting are even opened past 11. Interesting that we have more late night asian options (though a much smaller Chinatown).

Back to Balthazar: I'm a fan of poached eggs, but Balthazar's were consistently marred by the use of way too much vinegar in the water (a well-known trick to keep the whites from drifting). Some were like pickled eggs. The eggs themselves, massive organic and fresh, were obviously tops, produce-wise. The Florentine treatment, which presumably started with a sauce base of Hollandaise was good. The English breakfast sported lots of too-firm beans that seem to be the same ones used for the cassoulet, which struck me as wrong. Bacon/rashers was pretty good, and brat-like sausage (only one kind, no black and white pudding) was a dry letdown. Based on the waiter's praise, I really expected this to be a superb English b'fast. However, I honestly have had better "Irish" b'fast (same thing) here at Fitzer's Pub and at Ginger's Ale House. Of course, the pubs use Heinz canned beans, which a place like B'zar would never do, but I'd actually prefer it.

Honestly, the oysters I had were superb and the shucker is a genius. Pristine, separated from the shell, completely intact, no liquor lost, and very good mignonette. Fries are very, very good, though I would give the edge to Hopleaf here. I was disappointed by the mayo, which did not appear to be house made. I could be wrong, but it wasn't great. Only Belgian beer on tap is Stella. Other tap choices are things such as Bud light etc. I'd love to get deeper into the fruits de mer at Balthazar. Every thing looked great, and reminded me of places in the South of France.

PS, I can't overemphasize how nothing Mercer Kitchen was for me. My cod and potato cake, which I took to be a spin on similar Portuguese/Spanish bacalao dishes was awful. Here's the recipe, as I reverse-engineered it:

1 large potato -- boil 'till almost soft;

1 cod fillet -- boil 'till defrosted

Mash all ingredients with fork and loosely combine;

Form into a patty and place under broiler

Serve with great flourish.

JeffB wrote:Someone asked for me to expand on Balthazar's breakfast. It is an interesting topic because B'zar is one of the fancier non-hotel restaurants that serves breakfast every morning (it opens at 7:30).

I had (1) eggs Florentine, which was good, not great; (2) English breakfast (which I love and always get if its on the menu) which was not so great; and (3) poached eggs with toast and homefries, which was ok.

Balthazar opens at 7:30 and closes at 1:30 or 2:00 am. I jokingly described Balthazar as SoHo's Denny's, and the locals agreed there is much truth to that: the place is as full-service a restaurant as any Greek diner, but much more expensive and serious about food, obviously. It is very comfortable, especially at off hours. It's nuts late in the b'fast hours, at lunch, and after work through dinner. It is the anchor of the neighborhood and filled with regulars.

I most enjoyed it after midnight (NY time). The hippest 'hood in the city that never sleeps is pretty damn quiet on a Tuesday at midnight, and only one or two Chinatown places worth visiting are even opened past 11. Interesting that we have more late night asian options (though a much smaller Chinatown).

Back to Balthazar: I'm a fan of poached eggs, but Balthazar's were consistently marred by the use of way too much vinegar in the water (a well-known trick to keep the whites from drifting). Some were like pickled eggs. The eggs themselves, massive organic and fresh, were obviously tops, produce-wise. The Florentine treatment, which presumably started with a sauce base of Hollandaise was good. The English breakfast sported lots of too-firm beans that seem to be the same ones used for the cassoulet, which struck me as wrong. Bacon/rashers was pretty good, and brat-like sausage (only one kind, no black and white pudding) was a dry letdown. Based on the waiter's praise, I really expected this to be a superb English b'fast. However, I honestly have had better "Irish" b'fast (same thing) here at Fitzer's Pub and at Ginger's Ale House. Of course, the pubs use Heinz canned beans, which a place like B'zar would never do, but I'd actually prefer it.

Honestly, the oysters I had were superb and the shucker is a genius. Pristine, separated from the shell, completely intact, no liquor lost, and very good mignonette. Fries are very, very good, though I would give the edge to Hopleaf here. I was disappointed by the mayo, which did not appear to be house made. I could be wrong, but it wasn't great. Only Belgian beer on tap is Stella. Other tap choices are things such as Bud light etc. I'd love to get deeper into the fruits de mer at Balthazar. Every thing looked great, and reminded me of places in the South of France.

PS, I can't overemphasize how nothing Mercer Kitchen was for me. My cod and potato cake, which I took to be a spin on similar Portuguese/Spanish bacalao dishes was awful. Here's the recipe, as I reverse-engineered it:

1 large potato -- boil 'till almost soft;

1 cod fillet -- boil 'till defrosted

Mash all ingredients with fork and loosely combine;

Form into a patty and place under broiler

Serve with great flourish.

Jeff,

I truly hope the majority of these meals were either client-necessitated and/or paid for, and that you decided to visit these establishements for the sheer proximity to your business/residence for the week.

Leaving aside, for the moment, your decision not to consult moi for your visit, I'm surprised you didn't, given the stone's throw-like range from "Nolita" (an epithet on par with DUMBO, BIMBO, East Williamsburg, and Jersey City Heights) to First Avenue (Allen St north of Houston, for you downtowners), at least check out some of the still-remaining classics on that worthy thoroughfare. Oh well - as Richard Lewis said (in reference to his relatives who, having started a regimen of Zoloft, threw a barbecue, and forgot the meat): "Next Time..."

Pizza: Five Roses
Pasticceria: DiRoberti's or Veniero's
LEO (Lox, eggs, and onions) breakfast with challah and coffee (which, especially if you get Raul Vargas to make it for you, could kick Balthazar's Prada-wearing, gelled-hair butt any day of the week. That is, if we are to anthropomorphize breakfast foods): B&H Dairy Restaurant, 2nd Avenue below St. Mark's.
Soppressata, et alli: Russo and Sons
And, had we a time machine, La Focacceria for vesteddi sandwiches, lentils, and a Manhattan Special.

I ain't mad atcha, playa.

Reb

It was all bizness, and I wanted to be on the hoof, or at most a short cab ride, from wherever I ended up. I didn't mean to seem all down on the neighborhood or the establishments, because I'm not. But I am more prone to like a place such as NY Noodletown or Alleva much more than Mercer Kitchen.

Another thing, the NY (at least Manhattan) idea of an "adventurous" "ethnic" restaurant seems to be a lot more polished and mainstream than the Chicago and LA conceptions of the same sorts of places. I found that puzzling as hell. I consulted the other board for Chinatown options, and while I was happy with my food, I passed many places with nary a non-Chinese diner or Zagat plaque that looked more intriguing. But I had little time for true, leisurely exploration and was always with others whose idea of a good time does not involve multiple meals at places where dining heaven or hell is a roll of the dice.

Meant to add: down from Lonbardi's is the "next" Cereality, Rice to Riches, America's original rice pudding bar. It's set up like an ice cream shop with lots of flavors. I never went in (neither did anyone else judging from the many times I walked past and it was empty.)

Rice to Riches is what happens when satirical humor is translated into a real brick and mortar storefront. It can't be real, right? Check out the store's "vibe." Hope you're ready to move something,

http://www.ricetoriches.com/frameset.ph ... rtpage.php

I just want to say, everyone needs to check that site out NOW. Apparently Rice to Riches has identified a heretofore unrecognized niche market of uberhip 90-year-olds, and thus come up with the perfect product for the Prada-clad Tribeca denture-wearer.

As I said elsewhere just the other day, "this sort of self-delusion about the importance of the stuff you make to anybody is far more common than [marketing] genius."

as a lending veteran who took it in the shorts from the budding industry that spawned from the Seinfeld Soup Nazi episode, I cringe at that website.

I was just craving about Rice to Riches the other day... I insist on going there when visiting NY... Its the coolest "store" ever, and as far as I'm concerned a "MUST" for anyone going to NYC... a great stop if you're out and about in SOHO.. plus you get to take home some "rice to riches" tupperware (included in the price)..


There was a store in another neighborhood I think (Little Italy?), but the web site doesn't seem to mention that. it may be closed now? a little over a year ago there was a big hoofla about how the store was raided by the feds and they found stacks of cash in the basement... he was apparently running a $21 million gambling ring out of the storefront... and they say chicago is full of mobsters!


btw, for $45 you can have rice to riches overnighted to you! but that takes out half the fun.

http://www.gothamist.com/archives/2005/ ... g_ring.php

Wait a minute. Are you suggesting that America's most exclusive, high-end rice pudding boite -- with its SoHo lease and no customers -- might have been connected to an illicit enterprise?

I didn't think so.