A Classic Day - Johnnie's Beef & Caputo's Cheese

We all have, I think, a repertoire or old standby Chicago eating experiences - chinatown for some S&P shrimps and a fruit shake followed by acting as witness to a carp execution; Argyle for pho and a bbq pork bun, followed by a dried shrimp larder-stocking at the Thai Grocery.

Yesterday, I made one of my favorite Chicago eating expeditions. I woke up, bathed and headed out to run an errand or two. On the way back from the post office, I considered a stop for pizza at Big Cheese but was discouraged by the fact that Big Cheese doesn't open till 4:00 PM.

So, inspired by necessity, with stomach a-rumbling, I started the long drive out Fullerton to my favorite spots in our Italian Suburbs. It was a beautiful day for a drive - the sidewalks were packed with people enjoying the clear sun and warm temps; eloteros were hawking corn and pepino; bbq shacks belched hickory smoke into the air. Every block had a different odor and a different feel.

Left on Cicero; then right on North, cross Harlem, and then pull in to Johnnie's. I haven't eaten a thing all day. The line is halfway down the block with post-little league banter and healthy swim team types starting their summer of skin alongside Elmwood Park sheriffs and correctional officers taking a well deserved break from fighting the wicked. By 2:10 I'm in the glass doors, by 2:20 my combo is soaking in jus. At 2:25 I'm perched on the bench in front of the shop, positioning my sandwich and wax paper in the spot least likely to cause me to lose any shreds of rich roast beef from my quickly disintegrating roll. By 2:30 the sandwich is a memory - sage and ground pork, wisps of charcoal, palms shiney with grease. A lemon ice is the perfect palate cleanser. Johnnie's was transcendent yesterday, the apotheosis of beef - I beamed.

Then back in the car, and further down North, past the track, past the carwash, past value city, then right at the motel (that's now a new Walgreens) up 15th to the cheese store. 30 minutes later, I'm loaded down with 87 bucks worth of provender; caciocchiato - a campanian cows-milk cheese, semi soft studded with "eyes", little havarti-like holes;cheap port-salud; sweet gorgonzola positively oozing; three baseball-sized ovoline of fresh mozzarella and a slab of fresh blue-ribbon ricotta perfect with honey or spread on bread; a hunk of pecorino and I'm off the to bakery/deli. Three pounds of "Sicilan" sausage seasoned with marsala and fennel; prosciutto di parma perfectly layered on cellophane; mortadella di veroni; fresh spinata piccante - a hot soppressata. A whole foccaccia with cherry tomatoes and dried oregano caked on top. Limonata; aranciata; san marzano's with basil; prosecco di valdobbiadene at $4/bottle - I can try two for that price.

When I get home, an hour later, I'm just starting to feel peckish again - a wedge of foccaccia with prosciutto, fruity olive oil, fleur de sel and mozzarella hits the spot.

I've made that trip dozens of times in the last 5 years - with occasional deviations: a jaunt up Harlem to Caputo's for over-ripe figs and cut-rate eggplant; a stop at Pasta Fresh for a couple of pounds of fresh tagliatelle or a trip to the Riv for a sub laden with house-cured meats; sometimes an espresso or three; a gelato, a cannolo. But the fundaments are always the same and always a reminder of what a pleasure it is to live and eat in this great city.

Seth Zurer wrote:Yesterday, I made one of my favorite Chicago eating expeditions.

Seth,

Sounds a wonderful day, and very enjoyable to read about.

Enjoy,
Gary

I live pretty close to Johnnie's, so my personal expedition is a little different. For me, first it's a stop at Eastern Style Pizza on Dempster for a Rueben Grinder (or 2) to go. Then up the street to Poochies for a cheddar burger and fries. Then west a little farther to Kaufmans for some deli and baked goods.

Hmm, I'm about due