Bourbon: When Chad Met Trixie in Roscoe Village

The snarky title perhaps suggests a slam which this review will not be. I had a nice meal at Bourbon, a new spot in the former Tombo space (best-looking underwhelming sushi spot in town), and everybody was nice as all get out (if, I suspect, put a bit on alert by the prospect that the guy taking pictures might be somebody-- but they were nice before I started taking pictures).

But Bourbon has its niche and that's a fact. JeffB came up with the perfect term "Big Ten Bar" to sum up those Chicago places dominated by ESPN HD and pennants from their favorite Fritz Lang movie, and Bourbon is a Big Ten chichi restaurant, a place which combines minimalist decor in Hot Chocolate brown with a big bar and lots of TVs. The purpose in life of a Big Ten chichi restaurant is to allow Trixie to have a nice meal while Chad is never deprived of his continuous MLB feed. Bourbon will keep them both happy.



Bourbon's thing is, unsurprisingly, bourbon. That's the list-- someone else can judge if there are cool unknown things on it or not-- and here's what I had, the self-proclaimed Bourbon Manhattan Martini, hard to say what made it a Manhattan Martini versus simply a Manhattan, since they both have vermouth and neither had gin; but a perfectly nice, and almost Gale Street-stiff, Makers' Mark Manhattan.



Appetizers leaned heavily toward upscale bar snacky stuff with a Southerny-Cajuny twist-- bourbon shrimp, alligator chunks, that sort of thing. Likewise the sandwiches. Dining solo, I passed on both and went straight to an entree, though they looked pretty ambitious for bar food.



Nicely-prepared slices of pork loin, dotted with real bacon bits in a cream sauce, with bourbon-glazed veggies and spinach. Based, a bit unfairly, on one dish, I thought Bourbon was quite impressive for a bar, and perfectly acceptable for a restaurant, though not reaching quite as accomplished a level as, say, Mrs. Murphy and Sons, which also seems to be oriented a bit toward that Big Ten crowd (or close enough, since Notre Dame is not a Big Ten school, or so my ten seconds' Google research indicates).



Bourbon creme brulee finished the meal. It was fine, not that bourbony. I could have taken more. I could have gone mano a mano with your creme brulee, dude! Bring it on!

Anyway, for a place whose target audience I am definitely not, I had a pretty good meal at Bourbon-- certainly far better than at the nearest ersatz Cajun-sports-bar joint, Blue Bayou-- and they're definitely an improvement on the previous place in their hot Roscoe Village space.

Bourbon
3244 N. Lincoln Ave., Chicago
(773) 880-9520

OK, I'll probably end up here at some point, because bourbon is like a giant electric magnet, and the combination of good food might make it irresistible. BUT ... any place that charges $4.00 for a shot of Early Times, and $2.00 for a shot of Beam, is clearly just upside down in its thinking. You can get a whole pint of Early Times (or a half-gallon bottle of Lysol Brown, more or less interchangeable) for $4.95. Do you think I could wear my Jim Beam Black baseball cap here, bill turned backwards, or not?

"Scotch Whiskey" (instead of whisky) is a little worrisome, as well. And that's ignoring the "all whiskey's are served .." bit.

This place looks like a gimmick, intended to make 23-year olds feel "old school" and "grown up" by ordering shots of bourbon, rather than sakitinis or red bull and vodkas. Well, I'm all for anything that promotes bourbon consumption and appreciation, but this place is just a big old rip-off. For example, last month I was in Randolph Wine Cellars, and they had a huge stock of Van Winkle, including the 15-year at around $30 or $35 per bottle. This place is selling the same stuff at $13 per shot. In other words, $260 per bottle. In terms these young bourbon connoisseurs might understand: WTF?

Do they have ESPN at Randolph Wine Cellars?

I don't think so.

Mike G wrote:Do they have ESPN at Randolph Wine Cellars?

I don't think so.

Well, I was talking about the retail store, not the bar ... I think they show Bravo on the plasma over there.

What's with charging $1 extra for ice? Sorry, I mean rocks.

Hey, you get "a water back" with that too...

d4v3 wrote:What's with charging $1 extra for ice? Sorry, I mean rocks.

I was surprised to learn a while back that this is actually pretty standard. You have to pour a little more booze when you serve it on the rocks. So, the $1.00 is for the booze, not the ice. Of course, there's the issue of proof (how sure are you they actually poured a bigger shot?), but that's the theory.

d4v3 wrote:What's with charging $1 extra for ice? Sorry, I mean rocks.

Pretty much every bar charges a little more for a whiskey on the rocks as opposed to a neat shot. This is based on the fact that you get a little bigger pour when they put it over ice.

Like gleam, I'm particularly amused by the "all whiskey's are served neat or on the rocks". Damn! I usually get my bourbon served to me on fire in a bowler hat.

Thanks for the pics and research, Mike. The pork looks...well....creamy.

Best,
Michael

All jokes aside, they could probably be doing a lot to more help educate folks on bourbon at a place like this. If you've never had shots of good liquor served in a bar (as I had not done until a few years ago), it probably is helpful to be told (politely and in the menu, rather than by the server) that shots come two ways. They could also avoid the "Why an extra 1.00?" questions (and be helpful to the patrons) by stating the size of the pours in oz. for neat versus rocks. That way, nobody has to feel foolish for asking (and I wouldn't have known the answer to that question until maybe about two or three years ago, myself, and I would have appreciated a gently informative explanation like the one I got from the server at Boulevard of whom I asked the question). It is funny that they assume the patrons don't know that booze is served neat or on the rocks, but at the same time (1) don't feel a need to define "neat" (it does not mean "awesome!") or rocks (no, it won't chip your teeth) and (2) don't answer the more mysterious question of why rocks costs more than neat. I guess when it comes to choosing between "neat" vs. "rocks," if you have to ask the difference, you just aren't cool.

Anyway, they could do some fun stuff here. Bourbon flights, and tasting nights, and maybe bring in a rep to talk about the booze, etc. It's fun to learn when learning requires drinking! I wonder if they have that sort of thing in the works?

eatchicago wrote:Pretty much every bar charges a little more for a whiskey on the rocks as opposed to a neat shot. This is based on the fact that you get a little bigger pour when they put it over ice.

I didn't know that. But then again, I rarely drink whiskey, and when I do it is always "neat". I was also amused by the whole "neat, rocks, water back" terminology on the menu. Like JiLS implied, it's obviously there to teach the young'ns how to order their whiskey just like grandpa does. Just because of that, if I went there, I would probably avoid using those terms.

d4v3 wrote:

eatchicago wrote:Pretty much every bar charges a little more for a whiskey on the rocks as opposed to a neat shot. This is based on the fact that you get a little bigger pour when they put it over ice.

I didn't know that. But then again, I rarely drink whiskey, and when I do it is always "neat". I was also amused by the whole "neat, rocks, water back" terminology on the menu. Like JiLS implied, it's obviously there to teach the young'ns how to order their whiskey just like grandpa does. Just because of that, if I went there, I would probably avoid using those terms.

If gramps is still living, why not bring him along? I'm sure he'd get a kick out of paying $4.00 for a shot of Early Times.

Mike G wrote:Anyway, for a place whose target audience I am definitely not, I had a pretty good meal at Bourbon--

Mike,

Bourbon sounds like like a good place to take visiting friends relatives who are looking for the "Big Ten Bar" ESPN experience. They can watch a game or two, I can sip bourbon, neat, water back. Though for bourbon at a place where I'm not the target audience I'd hie it down to Delilah's.

Thanks for the break down on Bourbon, nice, as always, pictures.

Enjoy,
Gary

They can watch a game or two, I can sip bourbon

That makes them Chad, and you Trixie.

Mike G wrote:That makes them Chad, and you Trixie.

Mike,

No one is ever going to mistake me for either.

Enjoy,
Gary

As for cool unknown things on the list, Paddy Rare, is well, rare. Their Scotch Whiskys (that e troubles me too) isn't very extensive, but that's not its name and as far as I can tell the bourbon list is great but can all be found at the well stocked places like Delilah's or Clark St. Ale House (but there's no food at either).

The prices are acceptible and certainly cheaper than many steak house bars that have extensive lists. Althought the Early Times/Jim Beam difference is puzzingly. You can't really compare liquor store prices with restaurant or bar prices. It's like haggling with a sommelier, telling him you've seen that vintage of Bordeaux at a third of the price at CostCo. And technically, a shot and 'neat' are not the same thing. Complain if you ever get your 10 dollar whiskey in a shot glass.

kiplog wrote:As for cool unknown things on the list, Paddy Rare, is well, rare. Their Scotch Whiskys (that e troubles me too) isn't very extensive...

If anyone needs an explanation on Whiskey vs Whisky, there is one on Dewar's website. It explains when to use the 'e', but it doesn't do a very good job of explaining "why".

As for Bourbon's Scotch list, as kiplog said, it's not extensive, but it is respectable. A handful of those are not often seen in bars, at least by me (Clynelish 14, Benromach 18 ). One mistake though, I think "Caol Ila" is two words--not "Caolila".

I would indeed like to see Bourbon offer tastings and flights.

Best,
Michael

kiplog wrote:You can't really compare liquor store prices with restaurant or bar prices. It's like haggling with a sommelier, telling him you've seen that vintage of Bordeaux at a third of the price at CostCo.

True, but $4 a shot for Early Times is about a 900% markup (ET sells at around $8.00/750 ml, which yields around 18 or 20 shots, or 40 cents per). 200% or 300%, even 400% markup on liquor is expected. But 900% is outrageous, and especially for a low-grade bourbon that really ought not to be served in the first place at a bar that calls itself "Bourbon."

kiplog wrote:And technically, a shot and 'neat' are not the same thing. Complain if you ever get your 10 dollar whiskey in a shot glass.

Yes, I saw that happen once to a friend's $25 Scotch ordered at Blackies; inexperienced waitress brought it in a shot glass. That had to be remedied, and was, though it left her puzzled.

The talk of Early Times reminded me of this classic Walker Percy essay on Bourbon. It's worth a read if you've never seen it.

With respect to Bourbon (the restaurant/bar and grill) specifically, I too was a bit surprised to see Early Times on that menu and coming in at that price. (I was also surprised to see Pappy Van Winkle referenced as Pappa Van Winkle -- but maybe they're appealing to a generation that grew up on the Smurfs.) Overall, the list looks pretty decent. Missing my personal favorite Black Maple Hill, which I've only seen at the two Twisted Spoke locations (although I haven't searched extensively). For those bourbon connossieurs (or any whiskey/whisky lover for that matter), all whiskeys are half price at the Twisted Spoke on Wednesday nights, which sure helps the pocketbook with respect to the more aged versions of the small batch bourbons like Van Winkle and Black Maple Hill.

eatchicago wrote:Like gleam, I'm particularly amused by the "all whiskey's are served neat or on the rocks". Damn! I usually get my bourbon served to me on fire in a bowler hat.

Does it bug anyone else that on the menu they use the possessive for whiskeys instead of the plural, as it should be?

Sorry.

Yeah, it bugged me, but not as much as, at a more expensive place, learning that French wine is all about the terrior. (Surely that's Yorkshire wine.)

Great review and pictures Mike- you really nailed the whole
Chad and Trixie transformation of the neighborhood too. As a
"lifer"in the said 'hood however, I have to say I was surprised you
referred to the location as Roscoe Village ? I think it is actually Lakeview.
A minor point to be sure, probably best discussed over a shot of fine
Bourbon!

The manhattan in the photo looks good but I'm not interested unless it has brandy soaked cherries rather than maraschino. Both Aqualina and Charlies on Leavitt had a great manhattan. Magnolia Cafe now has the number one manhattan in my opinion. Brandy soaked cherries and a bit heavier on the sweet vermouth. Sola's is up there as well.

Rudy wrote:The manhattan in the photo looks good but I'm not interested unless it has brandy soaked cherries rather than maraschino.

Get thee to the Matchbox. (soon)

Matchbox
770 N Milwaukee Ave
Chicago, IL
312-666-9292

What?!?!?!? No Rebel Yell?

JimInLoganSquare wrote:I saw that happen once to a friend's $25 Scotch ordered at Blackies; inexperienced waitress brought it in a shot glass. That had to be remedied, and was, though it left her puzzled.

What, should it be served in a snifter?

I've yet to find a glass that doesn't
make whisky/whiskey/bourbon/scotch
taste like pork-rind-infused
rubbing alcohol.

I believe you were in more of a DINK neighborhood...... the Chad's and Trixies typically wouldn't dare venture West of Ashland.

They do now, believe me!

They don't seem to have any trouble running north on Lincoln up to about Lawrence on weekends.