Locating Tex-Mex

Locating Tex-Mex

The name “Tex-Mex” seems to carry a somewhat pejorative connotation: it ain’t Tex, it ain’t Mex, and the subliminal perception seems to that it’s some kind of bastard born of commercial enterprises that dumbed down authentic Mexican cuisine for the sake of selling to a largely Anglo audience. That is not fair, of course, and I am intrigued by the characteristics of this “pidgin cuisine” that bridges the palates of those on both sides of the Rio Grande.

Here are some items that seem to be of the Tex-Mex (or perhaps more accurately, Mexican-American) school of cooking:
• Burritos
• Chimichangas
• Fajitas
• Chili con carne
• Nachos

This list is not exhaustive, but these items seem to be ones I’ve rarely if ever seen in Mexico, they share a similar flavor profile (i.e., relatively mild), and some authors have traced their first appearance to a cities in Texas, Arizona and California. Know of any other Tex-Mex food items I can add to the list?

Hammond

David Hammond wrote: Know of any other Tex-Mex food items I can add to the list?

Hammond,

I'll page through my copy of Tex-Mex by Rob Walsh. A wonderful read from both recipe and historical viewpoint.

Enjoy,
Gary

The most characteristic thing of "real tex mex" and I'll be down in Austin in a couple of weeks to partake is cheddar cheese, both as a replacement for other Mexican cheeses and as a frequent condiment. Another very tex mex thing, one seen less up here I think, is "chile sauce", a not too spicy red sauce used mostly for enchiladas. Finally, another authentic item, so to speak, is SW Hatch chiles, which are also made into sauce for enchiladas.

As I have noted before, the ultimate primer to tex-mex food is the inside of ZZ Top's Tres Hombre magazine.

Vital Information wrote:The most characteristic thing of "real tex mex" and I'll be down in Austin in a couple of weeks to partake is cheddar cheese, both as a replacement for other Mexican cheeses and as a frequent condiment.

I believe Monterrey Jack and even American cheese (as on nachos) might be considered typical to Tex Mex, too.

It is just a little surprising, especially given Spanish influence, that Mexico did not develop their cheesemaking to a greater extent than they have. I'm guessing climate may have something to do with it.

Hammond

David Hammond wrote:

Vital Information wrote:The most characteristic thing of "real tex mex" and I'll be down in Austin in a couple of weeks to partake is cheddar cheese, both as a replacement for other Mexican cheeses and as a frequent condiment.

I believe Monterrey Jack and even American cheese (as on nachos) might be considered typical to Tex Mex, too.

It is just a little surprising, especially given Spanish influence, that Mexico did not develop their cheesemaking to a greater extent than they have. I'm guessing climate may have something to do with it.

Hammond

Who sez Mexico has not developed its cheesemaking?

I thought we were talking about Tex-Mex. Just visit your friendly neighborhood flea market for a sample of the range of Mexican cheeses...

Googling around for Tex Mex info, I came upon this somewhat useful site:http://www.foodtimeline.org/foodmexican.html, which includes quotations from a number of sources, collected by an apparently food-obsessed reference librarian.

Hope I can get some help. I just received a heartfelt plea from a gorgeous woman who grew up in Houston for some good Tex Mex and I really really do not want to let her down. Any suggestions for North Side Tex Mex with decent margaritas? I'm not looking for Adobo Grill! Barring the Tex part, a place with good drinks and fajita type entrees would be preferable to me. I'm used to the taco stands and although I might end up at Mas but it is a bit far south, I'd like to stay as far north as possible.

Octarine,

Maybe this is a little to much on the Mex side for what you're looking for, but what about That Little Mexican Cafe? I haven't been there since they moved to their newer, larger location, but at least at their old location I remember it being good. And the fajitas and margaritas were both great.
Since you live in Evanston, you probably have your opinions about this place...what do you think?

trixie-pea

I've never been and it is a great idea. She lives right down the street from there. Thanks!

Las Palmas (I have only been to the one in Evanston) serves up what is almost the kind of Mexican food you find in Houston. It is not Felix on Westheimer, but fairly close (no chili con queso, though). Personally, Americanized Mexican cuisine is not my cup of tea, but the food at Las Palmas is pretty good, and the space is pleasant. The hot sauce is not even close to hot, but the Margaritas are strong and good.

Yeah I'm pretty clueless when it comes to TexMex but hey, what the lady wants, I'm going to try to give her! She was very interested in Las Islas Marias and Maxwell St. But that's for later down the road,

Another shop with preparations similar to what I remember in Houston is Hacienda on North Avenue.

Flip

Uncle Julio's Hacienda on North pretty much nails the atmosphere of a standard franchise Tex-Mex, which I believe it is. Think Don Pablo's, if that's her cup of tea. The food's not going to blow you away, but it's not terrible either. Margaritas didn't leave much of an impression one way or the other, but the same can be said of a number of genuine Tex-Mex spots too.

Bottom line: If she's a real foodie looking to experience top-notch Tex-Mex cooking, she's in the wrong city. If she's your average gal looking for something to remind her of home, Uncle Julio's is probably your spot.

Aaron, I think you nailed the description. She's looking for a reminder of home. Now the tricky part is whether this level of preparation and research will be thought of as sweet and thoughtful or over the top;)

Octarine wrote:She's looking for a reminder of home.

If you decide to stay in Evanston, you could also stop in at the bar at Merle's for a Lone Star beer or two.

Best,
Michael

Uncle Julio's Hacienda is a spot where I go when I am craving a Tex-mex fix. Being a recent transplant from Dallas, I miss good Tex-Mex - and trust me, there is a world of difference between the Don Pablos and On the Borders of the world and the great Tex-Mex places, such as Herrera's Cafe and Mi Cocina. UJ Hacienda is probably right in the middle.

Uncle Julio's is actually a chain whose original restaurant is in Dallas. While in Dallas, I only dined there 2 or 3 times. Since we've been in Chicago, I've gone usually once a month to get my fix.

The complimentary chips and salsa are great. And the fajitas are pretty good, served with a bit of garlic butter sauce that elevates it up a notch. I actually had an excellent rib-eye special there a couple of months ago, but it isn't a regular menu item. (Which is too bad, because it was a great steak.)

BTW, Uncle Julio's Hacienda has two locations in the chicago area.

855 W. North Ave., Chicago
Tel: (312) 266-4222

best,
veeral

Here is a link to a pretty good summary of TexMex. I think it is the introduction to a cookbook. The author points out that the name "TexMex" started out as a pejorative term used by east coast culinary critics to describe what they viewed as inauthentic Mexican food, rather than a cuisine unto itself. Those restaurants in Texas that actually served that style of food rejected the label.
http://www.loc.gov/catdir/samples/rando ... 63673.html

When I think of TexMex, I think of the aforementioned Felix in Houston and the Alamo Cafe in San Antonio. Felix has been around for almost 60 years and serves what can best be described as "traditional TexMex" (which may be a contradiction in terms). Alamo Cafe is probably only 25 years old and serves the traditional TexMex dishes, but has added some "nuevo TexMex" dishes. Here is a link to the Alamo's Menu which seems to cover all the TexMex bases. (I remember liking their Borracho Beans and Brisket Tacos, despite the yellow cheese)
http://www.alamocafe.com/adultmenu.html

I don't know if there is a place in this area that serves exactly this style of food. I think we have our own brand of inauthentic mexican food around here ( such as massive burritos and hot dog stand tamales). The TexMex thing never really caught on.

veeral wrote:Uncle Julio's Hacienda is a spot where I go when I am craving a Tex-mex fix. Being a recent transplant from Dallas, I miss good Tex-Mex - and trust me, there is a world of difference between the Don Pablos and On the Borders of the world and the great Tex-Mex places, such as Herrera's Cafe and Mi Cocina. UJ Hacienda is probably right in the middle.

Uncle Julio's is actually a chain whose original restaurant is in Dallas. While in Dallas, I only dined there 2 or 3 times. Since we've been in Chicago, I've gone usually once a month to get my fix.

The complimentary chips and salsa are great. And the fajitas are pretty good, served with a bit of garlic butter sauce that elevates it up a notch. I actually had an excellent rib-eye special there a couple of months ago, but it isn't a regular menu item. (Which is too bad, because it was a great steak.)

BTW, Uncle Julio's Hacienda has two locations in the chicago area.

855 W. North Ave., Chicago
Tel: (312) 266-4222

best,
veeral

I haven't bothered searching out good Tex/Mex in Chicago having heard too many terrible things. However, this Fall I met up w/ some friends in from out of town @ Hacienda.

It's rather warehouse-y for my taste and, of course, packed(and I mean PACKED) with that post-frat wannabe yuppie Bucktown singles scene.

Turns out their fajitas aren't half-bad; worthwhile cousins of their chain Texan brethren. Caveat emptor: they pride themselves on swirly, frozen margaritas. I stuck to the adequate traditional version.

A native Houstonian, I rate Hacienda a step or two below latter-day franchised Ninfas. That's about as good as it gets for TexMex in the city.

David Hammond wrote:Here are some items that seem to be of the Tex-Mex (or perhaps more accurately, Mexican-American) school of cooking:
• Burritos
• Chimichangas
• Fajitas
• Chili con carne
• Nachos

This list is not exhaustive, but these items seem to be ones I’ve rarely if ever seen in Mexico,

I would exclude fajitas from the list of items rarely seen in Mexico. Travelling through the northern state of Tamaulipas, I frequently enjoyed fabulous beef fajitas.

Bill/SFNM

veeral wrote:The complimentary chips and salsa are great.

The chips are an important point...I don't find them great by any objective standard, but they are a great example of the type of chip found at Tex-Mex restaurants.

The chip is an interesting thing. When I moved up here from Dallas, I couldn't believe that, at no Mexican restaurant could I find a decent chip--paper thin, a fragile, subtle, delivery mechanism for salsa adding more texture than flavor to the experience.

In my time here, I've become a convert to the thicker, crunchy, corny chip found in every place I've been here that serves chips, and when I return to Texas, I enjoy the Tex-Mex chips more for nostalgia than for eating. They do complement a good frozen margarita, though, and I'm not being disingenuous or oxymoronic.

One more note: you might consider Carol's Pub on Clark to round out your date. That's another place that approximates a Texas memory--good Texas dive bars--not exactly but as close as I've found 'round these parts. I enjoyed my one visit to the Horseshoe on Lincoln far, far less.

Aaron Deacon wrote: When I moved up here from Dallas, I couldn't believe that, at no Mexican restaurant could I find a decent chip--paper thin, a fragile, subtle, delivery mechanism for salsa adding more texture than flavor to the experience.

You should try the chips from Sabinas Foods on 18th st. You can find them in many markets. I think they are close to what you are describing.

Aaron Deacon wrote:

veeral wrote:The complimentary chips and salsa are great.

The chips are an important point...I don't find them great by any objective standard, but they are a great example of the type of chip found at Tex-Mex restaurants.

The chip is an interesting thing. When I moved up here from Dallas, I couldn't believe that, at no Mexican restaurant could I find a decent chip--paper thin, a fragile, subtle, delivery mechanism for salsa adding more texture than flavor to the experience.

In my time here, I've become a convert to the thicker, crunchy, corny chip found in every place I've been here that serves chips, and when I return to Texas, I enjoy the Tex-Mex chips more for nostalgia than for eating. They do complement a good frozen margarita, though, and I'm not being disingenuous or oxymoronic.

One more note: you might consider Carol's Pub on Clark to round out your date. That's another place that approximates a Texas memory--good Texas dive bars--not exactly but as close as I've found 'round these parts. I enjoyed my one visit to the Horseshoe on Lincoln far, far less.

I'm eactly the same way when it comes to chips. And, if I recollect they are pretty good at Hacienda(and perhaps the salsa ain't bad, either?...it's all so hazy)

I do remember that a tamale(well-seasoned, meaty) I grabbed off a friend's plate hit the the spot along with my fajitas and guac.

This all reminds me of probably my best chip memory. My dad and I were traveling out from White Sands near Trinity Site: blackened, heavy skies, barren desert, and smoked glass limos. We stopped in at the only cafe/roadhouse for miles. It was packed with ranchers and guys with earpieces. I forget what all we ordered except for the basket of translucent, crispy, lard-redolent chips brought complementary to the bar. You could watch thru the order window as the cook fried up each batch salty and fresh.

Aside from chips like that, there's the quintessential soupy, pico de gallo-y table salsa that's nearly impossible to find up here, but is de rigueur down Texas/Southwest way.

Is Houston tex mex different than Austin tex mex? I went to Austin earlier this year from the first time and realized that I had never had tex mex food before. Every meal we had was incredible--especially the burriots at Chiu's. We also had migas at a local place that were delicious. I'd never had migas before.

I have been to Uncle Julio's several times and was never a big fan but did like the bacon wrapped cheese stuffed shrimp and swirl margaritas. The chips there are too thin for my taste. I also prefer a thicker chip.

If there are any restaurants serving anything close to Austin-style tex mex, I'd be there in a heartbeat!

Rudy wrote:Is Houston tex mex different than Austin tex mex? I went to Austin earlier this year from the first time and realized that I had never had tex mex food before. Every meal we had was incredible--especially the burriots at Chiu's. We also had migas at a local place that were delicious. I'd never had migas before.

I have been to Uncle Julio's several times and was never a big fan but did like the bacon wrapped cheese stuffed shrimp and swirl margaritas. The chips there are too thin for my taste. I also prefer a thicker chip.

If there are any restaurants serving anything close to Austin-style tex mex, I'd be there in a heartbeat!

No difference in general...I'd say. When my dad lived there(Austin) off-and-on during the late-80's/early-90's I'd visit and we'd grab Tex Mex at The Arroyo and Chuy's...Chuy's has a mixed reputation, but back when they first opened it was something whimsicle and new. I'd offer that Austin always seemed more on the "healthy" side of things with a plethora of burrito-esque preparations. Why one'd seek out "healthy" Tex Mex, I have no idea. Back to Chuy's...it's there(Austin location) that I had my first chile relleno in the mid-80's and I distinctly remember being wowed by the use of different colors of corn---blue corn tortillas...red corn chips...this was just on the cusp of something as routine *now* as blue corn chips being made readily available in Houston supermarkets. As per the Tex Mex fare I encountered in Texas-proper I remember that it rarely had a discernible chile-heat level. It wasn't until I first visited an Aunt in El Paso(where Tex Mex blends into Southwestern cuisines) that I apprehended true spiciness...in the red enchiladas my Aunt's Juarez maid brought with her one day for our lunch. The spicy enchiladas were a huge hit. Mine is a family raised on authentic spicy Texas chili-my grandfather used to savor his snacks of pickled and raw jalapenos and limes with salt(a quirk I've developed as well...maybe not the lime part).

Oddly enough(as per this revived thread) I've recently been craving box tacos. I feel so dirty combing the grocery store shelves for my crispy taco products, corn syrup sweet taco sauce, block cheddar, iceberg lettuce, pink tomatoes, and sour cream, and ground beef. Taco salad it is! With canned refried beans(do you know how difficult it is to find plain ol' refried beans these days?...most major grocery stores carry vegetarian this, fat free that, chorizo chipotle-flavored whatever...but NO true unmolested canned refried beans...I hate plebian culinary trends!---and their concommittant kow-towing/milking by ignorant supermarket chains...). Off soapbox. The only thing that completes my -?Tex Mex?- Midwestern delight is a box of La Preferida Spanish Rice that I'm not even sure is rice or it's parboiled or scared rice-less by some arcane process. That "rice" is a fond memory of places like Monterey House and Ninfa's(both Houston-based).

. . . nursed at the mourned Mexico City Restaurant, I have not found much in the way of real Tex-Mex here in Chicago (which, for the most part, is O.K. with me); there're lots of truly authentic (and regional) Mexican restaurants here.

When I crave Tex-Mex, I usually fix my own cheese-and-onion enchiladas, crispy (or puffed) tacos, beans and rice. To supplement that, there are plenty of sources for very good tamales and chiles rellenos here (do a search).

I do, still, though, get this occasional strong hankering for a nice combo plate from Spanish Village (and a glimpse of the three ZZTop-ers scarfing enchiladas with chili gravy).

Cheers,
Wade

http://spanishvillagerestaurant.com/