I took the family and my son's friend to Carnivale last week for an early dinner, which greatly exceeded my expectations . . .
Carnivale is located at 702 W Fulton MarketI knew from having met him at a Green City Market event back in January -- and having tasted his food on a couple of occasions -- that chef Mark Mendez was a serious-minded fellow who really puts his heart, soul and considerable skill into his cooking. But I was worried that the heavily-applied Kleiner Glitz, ambitious pan-Latin menu and hyper-focus on atmosphere at Carnivale might smother even the best culinary talent. Happily, that wasn't the case. And while the intensely colorful and beautifully-lit space certainly was a major part of our experience, it was the excellent food -- and
the impressive variety of farms from which ingredients are sourced -- that defined our visit.
We got off to a bit of a rocky start but it turned out to be a mere blip. It centered around the fact that when we arrived at 4:45, we were not seated immediately, even though the restaurant was virtually empty. Instead, we were given one of those super annoying flasher-pager devices and told that we could sit in the vast bar, which we did. But once we'd bellied up, we were subsequently told that they weren't serving yet. I'm in the middle of reading
Setting The Table by Danny Meyer and immediately thought about how a similar situation might have been handled at one of his restaurants. Somehow, I didn't think that anyone under his employ wouldn't have just served a customer in a situation similar to ours. I certainly wasn't angry and I tried to be understanding of the possibility that perhaps, they just didn't open until 5 pm but at the same time I could feel our experience sliding into that annoying, corporate policy-driven impersonal mode, which made me feel like we might be wasting our time. Are my biases showing?

View of the patio, Fulton Market and the Kennedy Expressway from inside the barThis is a visually-cool vantage point. Not only do several of the bar tables look out onto this view, but there is also a patio that is directly adjacent to Fulton Market. That said, it's a fairly loud spot and I'm not sure I'd want to be sitting any closer to the street than these folks were.
Happily, after a very short time -- and well before 5 pm -- the bartender re-engaged me and asked if the kids wanted soft drinks. After they were served, I ordered a Bakers on the rocks. The bourbon selection was better than I expected but the overall spirit selection was excellent. Of course, bourbon is not the focus at Carnivale. However, there were what seemed like countless tequilas, mezcals, rums and cachacas lining the shelves that reached all the way up to the high ceiling behind the bar (tasting flights of some these spirits are offered). We never did get to see exactly how those bottles on the very top shelves were accessed because at exactly 5 pm, our pager began to flash and speak to us (paraphrasing:
your table is ready now, please proceed to the host stand). We were escorted into the magnificent main dining room . . . and then escorted right out of it, into one of several smaller (less dramatic but still colorful) side rooms. I stopped and asked the host who was seating us if we could sit in the main room. He disappeared oh-so-briefly, returned and led us to a 4-top in the main dining room.
Main Dining RoomThe space, which also extends into several smaller rooms and multiple floors, was extremely cool.
Beautiful table for 14 at the back of the dining roomI cannot recall ever seeing a table this large in a restaurant dining room. I absolutely loved the design of it, so I took a picture.

Once seated, my wife decided to try a Cava Rita, which was delicious . . .
Cava Rita - Maestro Dobel Tequila, organic agave nectar, fresh lime and lemon juices, topped with Cava
Carnivale is so huge (total capacity, including private dining, is 620) they've had to come up with some solutions to keep things operating properly. For example, wireless headsets are worn by several FOH'ers to maintain efficient communications across the vast space. Another solution (for expediting the delivery of food) is this satellite cold-kitchen, which is tucked into the back corner of the main dining room . . .
Satellite Guacamole Station in the main dining roomHere, guacamole and other cold dishes (at least some of the many ceviches that appear on the menu) are prepared. The cooks making the guacamole told me that they typically go through 9 or 10 boxes of avocados on a Saturday night. Seeing the guacamole being made on the spot, we decided to give it a try . . .
Guacamole "Kleiner Style"I really enjoyed this minimally-prepared version, which boasted big chunks of perfectly ripe avocado, a successfully minor amount of red onion and a well-applied amount of lime juice for acidity.
Tortilla ChipsThe house-made chips were excellent.
Copper River Salmon TartareI was somewhat surprised when I was told that Copper River salmon was being offered as a special (in a couple of different forms; an entree was also offered). We opted for this ultra-fresh, luscious tartare, which was topped with ramps from Green City Market, which were pickled in house. It was, in a word, excellent.
Ropa Vieja - sweet plantains, braised beef, spicy mayo and queso fresco
If you're looking for bare bones, hard-core authentic cuisine, Carnivale may not be for you. But what they excel at is showcasing traditional components with updated, contemporary twists. This stylized version of the Cuban classic was quite delicious. The meat component was tender and bursting with flavor. The chef's choice to serve it over planks of plantain was interesting and appealing.
Empanada - spicy red cabbage and lime crema
Nicely executed and pretty straightforward. We opted for the beef-filled but chicken is also available. What I especially loved about it was the spicy pickled cabbage beneath the empanada.
EmpanadaThe meaty interior, which also included golden raisins.
Ceviche of Kona Kompachi - lime, cilantro, mint, basil and scotch bonnet chile puree
This fish was immaculate and the hot-but-restrained scotch bonnet puree served with it was amazing. You could taste the fruit and feel the heat but it didn't kill the palate. Very nice balance. Again, pickles accompany the dish -- this time in the form of radishes. Chef Mendez told me that sometimes he goes a little crazy at the Green City Market and the result is that some of what he buys gets pickled -- a very nice touch.
Entrees were up next and they were also very good, across the board . . .
Arrachera - grilled skirt steak, rice and beans, sweet red onion and chimichurri sauce
I loved this steak. It was juicy, with a light char on the outside. The chimichurri was tasty, too (it pained me to see my son's friend scrape it all off but at least I intervened on his order, changing it from well-done to medium well).
Pernil - rum-glazed pork shoulder, fried plantains, Puerto Rican rice and beans
Solid rendition, with tender, fatty pork. The addition of both olives and capers was a nice touch and cut against the richness of the pork very well. And I loved those gandules!
Mama Mendez' Arroz con Mariscos - sofrito rice, shrimp, squid, clams, mussels, peas, chicken and lobster broth.
This dish was a real show-stopper. I loved the perfectly cooked, aromatic rice, the super-fresh mariscos -- and the inclusion of pimenton-intense Spanish chorizo and fresh spring peas was wonderful. I'm glad this wasn't called a paella because it wasn't a paella but it was outstanding in every respect. Of course, you don't name just any marginal dish after your mom!

Atun - seared rare ahi tuna, local pea shoots, snow peas, sesame seeds, crispy plantain and coconut-habanero vinaigrette
I was feeling so full (and guilty about all the other items we'd eaten), that I ordered my entree for health more than pleasure and ended up with this completely respectable dish. Compared to some of the other items on the table, it was a bit less sexy but the ingredients were stellar and cooked expertly. I really loved the lightly dressed salad of snow peas and pea shoots.
Asparagus - manchego cheese, bacon-chorizo vinaigrette
From Green City Market (Klug Farm, iirc). Among the best asparagus I've had this season.
Mac & The Four Cheeses - herbed bread crumbs
This was a very creamy and satisfyingly pungent version (ironic because the kids wanted it but it was a bit too grown up for them). I didn't eat much of it but the taste I had was excellent.
Way too full for dessert but the kids thought they weren't . . .
Churros - chocolate and dulce de leche dipping sauces
The kids were disheartened because they believed that these churros weren't as good as the ones served at Baja Fresh. I thought they were excellent -- tender-crisp and redolent of heady cinnamon -- but since I've never had the Baja Fresh version, I can't say for sure if they were right or not.

Dessert drama unfolding . . .Actually, I couldn't tell if this was awe, the onset of a food coma or misguided disappointment over the tableside addition of hot fudge.

Pineapple Split - pineapple, coconut and chocolate ice creams with hot fudge, buñuelos and maraschino cherries
For me, the absolute highlight of this dish was the ice creams, which I'm fairly certain were made in house. The coconut and pineapple conveyed with clear intensity their namesake ingredients and the chocolate had an almost champurrado-like quality. Delicious.
I wasn't prepared for the fact that the food at Carnivale was going to be so good. No disrespect to chef Mendez intended but I wasn't sure he could overcome the nature of the beast (Mr. Kleiner is generally the star of his restauants). But I was pleasantly surprised, so much so that I look forward to returning in the near future. There were many interesting items on the menu that we didn't get to try and the lunch menu looks great, too. I admit that I'm guilty of judging a book by its cover but also so pleased that my preconceived notions were wrong. Still, there were some corporate trappings that I could have done without (service was efficient but a bit too rehearsed and not what I would describe as warm or personal) but the notable talent of the kitchen and the super-premium ingredients overshadowed those minor issues at every turn.
=R=
By protecting others, you save yourself. If you only think of yourself, you'll only destroy yourself. --Kambei Shimada
Every human interaction is an opportunity for disappointment --RS
There's a horse loose in a hospital --JM
That don't impress me much --Shania Twain