Well, I'm back to report on my trip. This seems to be the most varied repository for Memphis recommendations and accounts (others focus
more on
BBQ) apart from Mike G's highly recommended
travelogue which really stands on its own.
I was in town to visit a friend doing a one month rotation at St. Jude's. The medical center dominates the northern portion of the downtown area. This is where we were based. Aside from Morris Grocery, nothing was more than about 5 miles away and trips took 10 minutes or less. Memphians like pig:

Because of this, I set off thinking I was going to get my fill of blues and cue, but discovered something unexpected - soul.
I headed straight to the furthest location at Morris Grocery, lovingly described
here.

This was the best barbecue of the trip. I say this knowing that this sandwich was pretty good, bordering on very good. I am no barbecue aficionado, but nothing I had in Memphis blew my mind. What might have set this apart was the healthy dose of bark and smokey flavor. I didn't grab a picture, but a smokehouse out back was clearly emitting a streams. Morris Grocery reminds me of a large, empty bait shack that happens to serve barbecue. The descriptions in the other thread of encroaching suburbia are right on. From Google Maps, I would have assumed that this place was in the middle of nowhere, but palatial estates and some more cookie-cutter subdivisions have inched closer to what must have been a fairly rural spot until the last 15-20 years or so.
Dinner that night was at Interstate BBQ (mentioned
above and elsewhere).

This 22 oz cup was full of Sprite. It cost $1.50. It was refilled repeatedly. This generosity is the best I can say about the place. We got bbq nachos which was a combination of barkless (seemingly smokeless) pulled pork with sweet sauce and the always-abhorrent processed cheese food product, nacho cheese. This was the best thing I ate all night, but it was not good. I pushed past nacho cheese which normally repels me, probably out of hunger. I ordered the ribs plate. I don't know that I have any meat Jell-o since I first read the term here, but here was it's very epitome. Mushy, lukewarm, sauced cat food. I left half my plate. Cole slaw was sweet and weepy. Barbecued baked beans seemed tired. I don't think I like wet ribs as a style (or these were overly sauced). I knew I owed it to Memphis to try them again at another place with little or no sauce, but this meal basically turned me off of ribs for the rest of the trip.
The next morning drew us to Alcenia's restaurant close to the hospital. This was written up on Roadfood and apparently had been visited by Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives as well as one of the Rachel Ray shows. So the word was certainly out about this place, but only one other diner was there when we walked in at 10 AM. Memphis was playing that morning in the Conference USA championship, which might have had something to do with it. The other diner said he drives in from Arkansas for this breakfast, so we felt like we were in the right place:

The space was light, bright and welcoming. The only two people on staff were the owner who hugged us warmly before we sat down and another cook/server. Nothing was pre-cooked so my fried chicken took over half an hour to prepare. I knew this going in and didn't really mind: we had time, and it was very good:

I don't know if lack of plates is a thing here, but all the breakfasts were served in styrofoam. The chicken was fried perfectly, very crisp skin, moist leg and thigh and not in the least bit greasy. I can only assume this was pan-fried. The fried grean tomatoes were also very good. The biscuit was a little dry, but better than most I've had. My friend got the salmon croquettes which the owner said was from her grandmother's (Alcinea's) recipe. It was also very good and brought to mind the salmong patties my Ashkenazi grandmother fried up for me in my youth. We joked jovially about different cultures but similar fried fish. This was my only chance to hit this place on my trip, but I gladly would have returned for dinner. A very good meal that did not leave me feeling heavy despite the emphasis on the fried.
This was brunch and dinner didn't come until the late afternoon. We tried to go to Payne's BBQ for pulled pork sandwiches but the location closest to downtown was closed (it was only later that I found out there was another one, further south, that kept later hours on Saturday). Failing there, we continue on to A&R BBQ. I got a small sandwich with spicy slaw and a hot link with spicy slaw. The sandwich was perfectly fine, coated in the sweet sauce but lacking the extra smoke flavor and bark texture of Morris Grocery. The hot link was more flavorful, but nothing too special. I only later thought that I might have been able to request ends or bark.
On the way home, we grabbed some pies from The Cupboard a meat and threes family style restaurant with a couple of locations. The icebox lemon pie was a good balance of sweet and tart with a flaky crust. The Sweet Potato Pie was too sweet for my tastes.
Breakfast the next morning on the way to Graceland was to Brother Juniper's a place recommended by a technician at the hospital. This was closer to the University and was a slightly yuppier place than we had yet been. Still, my breakfast sandwich of fried egg and sausage on a biscuit reminded me of what the Egg McMuffin wants to achieve. This was a very tasty beginning to the day. I also got a side of banana bread which was moist and good. Snagged some of my friend's fried potatoes and omelet which were also well done renditions.
Dinner that night was to another locally recommended, newer place - Soulfish. They specialize in fried catfish and other Southern/soul specialties. This was in a more gentrified area of town and the decor reflected it. The food was spot on, and with one exception, excellent. We sat at the counter with a good view of the food coming out of the Soulfish window:

Most of what came out was catfish related. But this order was the choose any 3 veggies. There were about a dozen to choose from. I wound up ordering the fried catfish, but almost audibled to get some smoked chicken. I chose cajun cabbage as a side (basically sauteed and steamed, served with sliced andouille in a sweetened, vinegary sauce) along with hush puppies and black eyed peas instead of fries:

The catfish and hush puppies excellent. The black eyed peas were woefully underseasoned.
My friend ordered blackened catfish tacos with pickled green tomatoes. I was pretty skeptical about the tacos, but they were also very good - almost as good as my fried catfish. The pickled tomatoes were a bit tarter than my cabbage, but both were good. This was another place I would highly recommend.
My last morning, I hit the venerable Arcade Restaurant (purported to be the oldest in Memphis) on South Main Street.

As Mike points out in his post, this is directly across from the train station. They were happy to improvise a breakfast sandwich similar to the one I had at Brother Juniper's and, it too was good, although the biscuit at Juniper's was a little lighter and moister. I also had a side of their sweet potato pancakes which were sweet enough without the syrup. Crispy edges, pillowy middle, these were good dessert-for-breakfast pancakes.
Arcade interior:

All in all, I ate well in Memphis. I found the meals all to be eminently reasonable. The most expensive bill for two was just over $30 at Soulfish. I wanted to get to Central BBQ but could not quite fit it in. This and Payne's were the ones I missed with regrets. Still, I found some very good eateries that I would happily return to - Alcinea's, Morris Grocery, Brother Juniper's, Soulfish. Consider these if you're making the trip.
Morris Bar-B-Que (Morris Grocery)
10601 Macon Rd.
Eads, Tennessee 38028
(901) 755-5804
Interstate Barbecue
2265 S 3rd St
Memphis, TN 38109
(901) 775-2304
Alcenia's
317 N. Main St
Memphis, TN 38103
(901) 523-0200
(TUE-FRI 11:00 am-5:00 pm / SAT 8:00 am-1:00 pm)
A & R BBQ
1802 Elvis Presley Blvd.
Memphis, TN 38106
(901) 774-7444
Brother Juniper's College Inn
3519 Walker Ave
Memphis, TN 38111
(901) 324-0144
The Cupboard
1400 Union Ave
Memphis, TN 38104
(901) 276-8015
Soulfish Cafe
862 South Cooper
Memphis, TN 38103
(901) 725-0722
Arcade Restaurant
540 S Main St
Memphis, TN 38103
(901) 526-5757