La Granja: Another pretty good Peruvian chicken place

Vital Information has written of his quest for the one great Peruvian (or South American or whatever) roasted chicken place, such as you find in places like DC.

Well, we don't quite have it yet, in fact it may be more myth than reality. But at least one can say that we keep gaining places that can make you a pretty darn good bird.

I spotted La Granja on my way to Semiramis the other night for, of all things, roasted chicken, and visited it for lunch today. A nondescript interior, but the oven with chickens going around in it was plainly visible and decidedly promising.

It being buttnumbingly cold, I ordered some soup before my chicken. Like all chicken soup in rotisserie chicken places, it had no shortage of yesterday's chicken in it. Rich flavor, fresh cilantro the dominant spice, this was totally happy homemade soup, no industrial shortcuts, just chicken in chicken broth. (It wasn't on my bill at the end, by the way. I think it comes with the meal. Like all rotisserie chicken places, they end up with LOTS of chicken soup.)



For $7.95 I got a half chicken and two sides, for which I chose black beans and maduros. The plantains were fried to a chewy rather than gooey and greasy texture. The beans were decent but unmemorable.

The chicken? Well, the downside is that I'd bet that the sum total of spices came from a single Goya seasoning can. The seasoning was a little generic, in other words. The upside is, the bird was cooked perfectly, I mean, juicy, tender, white meat every bit as good as the dark meat, delectably crispy skin. Maybe I hit the perfect moment, you never know with chicken places (I was there about 12:30), but you could not have cooked this smallish, tender bird any better. El Pollo Campero, eat your heart out.



It all came with a side bowl of brightly spicy green aji, leading me to wonder if it was, in fact, a Peruvian chicken place. A few moments later the owner/cook came out and asked me how I liked things; I used the aji as a pretext to get him talking about himself and the restaurant. Open about a month, it's Peruvian style chicken, but he's Mexican, hence the slight genericness I sensed versus Peruvian chicken places run by actual South Americans. They also have tacos, burritos, pastor (no cone that I could see, but possibly), a modest Mexican menu but chicken is the star.

If not quite the place of Peruvian explorers' dreams, La Granja seems a very likable and accessible (for me) addition to the burgeoning roasted chicken scene. I'm sure I'll be back.

La Granja
4053 N. Kedzie
773-478-0819

The platanos pictured are not ripe (maduro). Depending upon what part of Mexico the owner hails from, he might not know any better. At best, the plantains used were pintos ("painted" with some black). The worst of all possibilities, as with many tropical fruits and vegetables, not to mention tomatoes, neither green nor ripe. Maduros need to be black on the outside. A little fur is ok.

I would say that, from both taste and texture, that was correct. Still, not bad.

Do they use mesquite coals?

Oh, I forgot to mention that. They use some kind of coals. Frankly, I think it's going to take another visit at least before I can get inquisitive enough about particulars like that. But yes, real fire and coals, not a heating element of some sort.

Due to a major public transportation mishap yesterday, my evening commute was extended and my stress level was increased. As a result, my desire to cook dinner evaporated.

I decided to pick up a chicken and a couple sides from La Granja. Our normal weeknight go-to chicken is the delicious and inexpensive bird from Tony's on Elston, but it was late enough in the day and that option would not be reliable.

My experience with this chicken is just about right in line with Mike's. I was surprised at how well cooked and well seasoned this bird was. Moist and juicy throughout, even the breast-meat, which I usually reserve for a separate, wetter use.

My reaction to the seasoning was much better than Mike's. While the seasoning may have been generic, it was well applied. The bird had a ton of flavor, both from the spices and from the fire. I enjoyed every bite and petit pois proclaimed it to be her favorite of the chicken places we've frequented (this includes Brasa Roja, Chuy's, Flying Chicken, Mr. Pollo).

Our sides were some so-so maduros and some very good pinto beans, garlicy and plump, not at all mealy or mushy. I also added an order of tortillas which I believe were made in house. I'll find out next time.

While I have a hard time believing that La Granja's chicken will replace my frequent use of Tony's bird (it costs more than double and it's more than twice as far away from my home), I enjoyed it very much and encourage others in that area to give it a try when they're in the mood for a tasty bird.

Best,
Michael