A while back I came across a reference to Coney Island in Milwaukee and was hopeful that this old hot dog restaurant might still be in business. As discussed in an
earlier thread such places were once common in the Midwest (and elsewhere) but are getting scarce these days. There are really none left in Chicago but
Detroit is blessed with two classics, side by side.
Coney Island is located about a mile south of downtown so I set off across the 6th Avenue Bridge, a rather spectacular modern bascule span.
View West from 6th Avenue Bridge
The area between downtown and National Avenue is kind of a post-industrial no-man's land but there are some fine old commercial buildings, many currently vacant. At the left you can see the smokestack of the old Sprecher Brewery before they moved north to larger quarters over 10 years ago.
After a pleasant walk I arrived at National Avenue. The neighborhood seems to this naïve observer to have much in common with Chicago's pre-gentrification Pilsen, a thriving Mexican community with some wonderful, well-preserved old buildings.
National Avenue, Looking West Toward 6th
Coney Island has been at the same address since 1926, likely the area's oldest business. The current owner, a crusty but likable old gent, has been working there for the last 55 years. Inside, it's about as basic as can be, clearly remodeled from the early days but still very old.
Coney Island's Menu
Ordering is as simple as it gets: hot dog, hamburger, fries, chili (of course, cheese is an option).
Hot Dog, Burger, Works
I got a dog and a burger with the works, meaning bright yellow mustard, finely chopped onions, and chili. Any component by itself would be completely forgettable (except perhaps the chili) but the combination works nicely. Very much a case of the sum being greater than its parts.
The Aftermath
It's nearly impossible to eat these things neatly, so why bother trying? I think you can see the formica on the counter is wearing thin after many decades of cleaning up after slobs like me.
Coney Island doesn't serve the region's finest hot dog but it's a very special place nonetheless. There are so few like it left around here that just by virtue of surviving it has become a something of a treasure. I'm a big fan but I'm certain not everyone will share my enthusiasm.
National Avenue, Looking East (1900)
One of the few decorations in Coney Island is this nice old photograph.
National Avenue, Looking East (2006)
Here's a similar view from a few days ago showing how little has changed in the last century.
Coney Island Hot Dogs
530 W National Av
Milwaukee WI
414-672-5660
Tue-Sat 10:30am-2pm